Timing Set Up for fitting Injection Pump TEF20

[Ukjay]

Hi

I cannot find my manual for the TEF20 (still pack away in storage I think), so does anyone know the timing set up to allow me to fit the Diesel Injector pump back onto the engine so that it provides fuel at teh correct time please. Also - where I will find the marks to align.

Many thanks

 

[Ukjay]

OK, so I have everything on and working - but as was the case previously, the idle speed is too high, and reading a poor quality service pdf, it state there is an idle scre adjuster for the tef diesel, but I am not able to see where it is suppoed to be - so does anyone know where it is, or have a clear photo of the idle scre adjuster and lock nut to help me find the correct part to adjust?

Ticks over smooth, no knocking etc, just too high rpm.

 

[agrimax]

Anything familiar here below the dashboard?

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[Ukjay]

Thank you for the link. Unfortunately I have already been through that and couldn't find the Location.

I think I have found a better manual now which shows something near to the heater plug on the offside of the tractor, so I will take a look and see.

Thanks again though, very much appreciated.

 

[sc4545]

Is the low idle speed set with the butterfly valve on the rhs of the engine??

 

[Ukjay]

Is the low idle speed set with the butterfly valve on the rhs of the engine??

Hi
According to the manual I located, it is adjustable via a little screw on thr right side of the engine next to the heater plug.
Unfortunately my one is siezed solid, so will have to soak it etc, or remove the whole piece to free everything off, as it may indicate why it is revving too high.
Also going to replace exhaust gaskets in case they are letting by, resulting in lower vacuum to the diaphragm body.

 

[tomlad]

Have a look around the butterfly on the air intake

Possibly one with long flats , like a wide nut , if u get me . Might b top end , or idle , forget

 

[Ukjay]

Have a look around the butterfly on the air intake

Possibly one with long flats , like a wide nut , if u get me . Might b top end , or idle , forget

Thank you. I believe the nut and screwdriver adjuster threaded rod is what adjusts it now, although my adjuster is siezed solid. Have not had the time to take it further to bits yet - but will have to to free it all off and make sure it is operational.

 

[MrNoo]

Yes, it is what adjusts idle speed, while you have the venturi off, check the spindle bearings as these wear badly and let air in (contributes to a higher idle) I would also be inclined to check all pipework for leaks, esp the vacuum pipe that goes behind the engine up to the venturi.
Once you get it back together and running, I would just quirt a bit of easystart or preferably WD40 around the vacuum tube, the motor will race if there is a leak as it'll suck the fluid in.

 

[tomlad]

Is that a steel pipe , i forget

 

[Ukjay]

Yes, it is what adjusts idle speed, while you have the venturi off, check the spindle bearings as these wear badly and let air in (contributes to a higher idle) I would also be inclined to check all pipework for leaks, esp the vacuum pipe that goes behind the engine up to the venturi.
Once you get it back together and running, I would just quirt a bit of easystart or preferably WD40 around the vacuum tube, the motor will race if there is a leak as it'll suck the fluid in.

Thank you for the added info, just so that I am talking about the right part, this is what I am referring too:

 

[Ukjay]

Is that a steel pipe , i forget

It is copper on mine - but it will be getting replaced, along with some of the other pipes due to corrosion of the old steel ones, and poor quality job with the copper pipe.

 

[MrNoo]

Yup A is the one, it is a shaft that goes right through the venturi with a cam on the end of it, forget which way you turn it. Have you checked for vacuum leaks first?? If the pipework is bad you could very well have a leak. As normally they are set pretty slow at the factory. If you have leaks it will tick over fast but drive fine mid range and top. Also the diaphragm cover bolts, check they are not loose and then all the fittings on the way up to the venturi.
Mine ticks over at 350rpm measured at the PTO, it will run slower but thats about the right speed.
Spill timing also will effect idle speed, some TEF's seem very insensitive to it and others it needs to be exactly spot on, no rhyme or reason why. I used very low pressure compressed air in through the drain port of the injector pump instead of fuel as you can audibly hear the hiss of air and the exact time it cuts off, much more accurate than using diesel dripping out the end of the pipe!!!
Also depending on the serial number of the pump there are two different spill timing settings believe it or not!! @TrickyT knows the numbers and spill timing figures. I'm afraid I have forgotten them!

 

[Ukjay]

Yup A is the one, it is a shaft that goes right through the venturi with a cam on the end of it, forget which way you turn it. Have you checked for vacuum leaks first?? If the pipework is bad you could very well have a leak. As normally they are set pretty slow at the factory. If you have leaks it will tick over fast but drive fine mid range and top. Also the diaphragm cover bolts, check they are not loose and then all the fittings on the way up to the venturi.
Mine ticks over at 350rpm measured at the PTO, it will run slower but thats about the right speed.
Spill timing also will effect idle speed, some TEF's seem very insensitive to it and others it needs to be exactly spot on, no rhyme or reason why. I used very low pressure compressed air in through the drain port of the injector pump instead of fuel as you can audibly hear the hiss of air and the exact time it cuts off, much more accurate than using diesel dripping out the end of the pipe!!!
Also depending on the serial number of the pump there are two different spill timing settings believe it or not!! @TrickyT knows the numbers and spill timing figures. I'm afraid I have forgotten them!

Many thanks for the above, really appreciate your insight. When you say measured at pto, was the pto @350 making engine 1000rpm, or was it around 126rpm on pto, as I thought the pto was around 2.77 reduction?

As for pipe leaks, will try the wd40 route as I do not have vac gauges. The bolts are all tight on the diaphragm cover and a new diaphragm fitted snug in the housing (old one was split).

 

[MrNoo]

Yes WD will do the job fine. @TrickyT (Sure he'll chime in as soon as he logs on) was there when we did the idle measurement, he knows all the figures and reduction details, but the engine was circa just under 400 on tickover, you can hear each pot fire. I found after fully rebuilding it it wouldnt tick over smoothly, almost as if it was missing but it wasnt, pump had been done and injectors, got the pump double checked, all ok, had the cam out, measured the lift on all lobes, sourced another cam and still it wouldnt run smoothly.
In the end I rightly assumed the pump phasing was slightly out, despite the bod who did it being adamant it was right, I ended up slackening all the injector lock nuts and just finding the pot that was out and slackening (advancing) the spring pressure, hence it fired the diesel in earlier. That was it, job sorted but it took me three weeks of headscratching, engine was apart two times. Been good as gold since

 

[TrickyT]

Maximum speed should be 2200 rpm under no load condition, which is 800 rpm PTO speed.

Idle speed is 440 to 495 rpm under no load, which is 160 to 180 rpm PTO speed.

Air leaks can affect the operation of the governor. There are 2 tests that can be done, one tests the governor, the other the governor vacuum pipe.

If you want to know how these are done, let me know.

Also check that the air cleaner has the correct amount of clean oil in it.

Trevor

 

[Ukjay]

Maximum speed should be 2200 rpm under no load condition, which is 800 rpm PTO speed.

Idle speed is 440 to 495 rpm under no load, which is 160 to 180 rpm PTO speed.

Air leaks can affect the operation of the governor. There are 2 tests that can be done, one tests the governor, the other the governor vacuum pipe.

If you want to know how these are done, let me know.

Also check that the air cleaner has the correct amount of clean oil in it.

Trevor

Hi Trevor

Any instructions you can provide me with will be greatly appreciated, as the old girl will need to do some work until such times as an additional tractor is found.

Still waiting for replacement exhaust, inlet manifold gaskets etc, seems to be taking an age to be delivered.

With regards to the air filter oil bath, I looked in their over the weekend and the oil could do with being replaced as it was a creamy colour..., so will drop engine oil and replace the oil bath ad well ?

What level should be in the oil bath, also what grade oil shall I use for both engine and oil bath please?

 

[TrickyT]

Right, engine oil is a discussion that gets raised the same amount of times as 'what grey' should I use?

The book specifies HD30 oil, but oil has moved on since then. Any good mineral oil will be fine, but @MrNoo and myself both use 20w50 oil. The engine takes 12 UK pints, 13 if you have changed the oil filter.

Don't forget that the hydraulic oil will probably need changing. that's 5 UK gallons. 15w30 is recommended, once again mineral oil not synthetic.

The oil bath should hold 3/4 pint, use same oil as in the engine, but if the tractor is old, it could do with the air filter being cleaned. I removed mine and set light to it and it burned for 20 minutes with all the rubbish that had built up in it.

Change the fuel filters while you are at it. Do the main one first and then the secondary a few weeks later. Remember to check the gauze in the lift pump if it has one.

To check the governor for leaks. Remove vacuum pipe. Pull back fuel cut off control and seal the diaphragm housing by placing a finger over the pipe union in the governor housing. Release the fuel cut off control, which should remain stationary. Any movement indicates a leak.

Trevor

 

[Ukjay]

Right, engine oil is a discussion that gets raised the same amount of times as 'what grey' should I use?

The book specifies HD30 oil, but oil has moved on since then. Any good mineral oil will be fine, but @MrNoo and myself both use 20w50 oil. The engine takes 12 UK pints, 13 if you have changed the oil filter.

Don't forget that the hydraulic oil will probably need changing. that's 5 UK gallons. 15w30 is recommended, once again mineral oil not synthetic.

The oil bath should hold 3/4 pint, use same oil as in the engine, but if the tractor is old, it could do with the air filter being cleaned. I removed mine and set light to it and it burned for 20 minutes with all the rubbish that had built up in it.

Change the fuel filters while you are at it. Do the main one first and then the secondary a few weeks later. Remember to check the gauze in the lift pump if it has one.

To check the governor for leaks. Remove vacuum pipe. Pull back fuel cut off control and seal the diaphragm housing by placing a finger over the pipe union in the governor housing. Release the fuel cut off control, which should remain stationary. Any movement indicates a leak.

Trevor

Many thanks for the above - very helpfull.

I would never have thought setting light to the filter would have cleaned it - as I would have worried the burning would leave carbonised deposits, plus I would have been concerned about distorting the filter.

We do have an issue with crud still in the tank, cleaned out best I could, so trying to locate something along the lines of one of these - but cant locate another:

Fuel Tank Strainer Filter

To suit various vintage tractor fuel taps and tanks. The gauze strainers stop the ingress of sludge and particles into the fuel system. Please double check sizes and modification maybe required.

old20tractorparts.com

 

[MrNoo]

The filters are best if washed out as best you can with some petrol, then carefully set alight to, they will burn for a surprisingly long time. the wire mesh one in the tube should come out in order for you to do that.
The governor trick that Tricky T mentions, does work to a degree but it actually doesnt, fine if everything is brand new with zero leaks but even a very very small leak and it wont work as described!! He's quoting from his book again!!!! His Ferguson bible that he keeps under his bed!