Trailer brake adjustment

[James]

Could do with adjusting the brakes on this trailer. 6 stud adr axles bit unsure of how to go about it. Any help would be great thanks.

 

[davidroberts30]

If the shoes are ok then tighten the bolt underneath the ram

 

[del_boy]

You've got a slack adjuster behind the ram, usually a 19mm headed bolt, yours is right down so You've got a fair bit of adjustment there 1st. If that still isn't enough take the arm off the shaft coming from the brake drum and rotate it a few splines (wind the slack adjuster back 1st). I usually put a small stilson on the shaft to hold it then rotate the arm a few splines. Hope that makes sense

 

[Colliedog]

You could also get a bit more braking performance by moving the ram to the top hole of the lever.

 

[C.J]

You can also undo the locknut on the end of the ram piston and unscrew the clevis a few turns , to get a bit more adjustment.

So that 4 different ways of increasing the performance of your trailer brakes.

 

[Lincs Lass]

The spring is in the wrong place it should be on the arm ,not on the ram

 

[michael N123]

The spring is in the wrong place it should be on the arm ,not on the ram

My muck spreader has the spring on the ram aswell

 

[Sebastian77]

You could also get a bit more braking performance by moving the ram to the top hole of the lever.

Looking at the arrangement wouldn't moving it down a hole increase travel of level thus braking?

 

[Lincs Lass]

My muck spreader has the spring on the ram aswell

Doesnt look to have any tension on it ,,the old AS and Griffiths had a D shackle onto the arm ,it allways had abit of tension left to close the ram in fully

 

[Mur Huwcun]

The spring is in the wrong place it should be on the arm ,not on the ram

Spring is onthe piston of the ram therefore does exactly the same as if it was on the arm. It’s only there to retract the ram, the springs on the shoes should release the brakes.

 

[deleted user 837354]

I seem to remember a thread that was similar and it struck a chord with me because I remember being warned not to change the hole the pin went in though for what reason I can't remember.

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Correct way to do it if not done for a long time would be to wind the bolts on the back of ram right off, remove the cam arm off the brake shaft and jack up the wheel. Use a mole grips or wrench then to rotate the brake shaft till you can feel by rotating the wheel the brake shoe starting to bind. Hold it there and slip the cam arm back onto the spline ensuring the ram is pushed fully back. This then gives you a starting point and then you can use the bolt on the back to balance the axles.

 

[Mur Huwcun]

This was posted on here a while back, it’s a very good guide and explanation and I must admit I read it all and enjoyed it

https://cdn.aea.uk.com/2020/11/Look-Behind-You-Guide-pdf.pdf

 

[fieldfarmer]

Looking at the arrangement wouldn't moving it down a hole increase travel of level thus braking?

Its about power from the ram, think like when you put a longer handle on a T bar to undo a wheel nut less effort from you equals more torque.

 

[roscoe erf]

Shirley you want to adjust the shoes there is a nut could be a square on the back of the drums

 

[Will 1594]

You've got a slack adjuster behind the ram, usually a 19mm headed bolt, yours is right down so You've got a fair bit of adjustment there 1st. If that still isn't enough take the arm off the shaft coming from the brake drum and rotate it a few splines (wind the slack adjuster back 1st). I usually put a small stilson on the shaft to hold it then rotate the arm a few splines. Hope that makes sense

And if never been off before ,some times need heat to get them apart

 

[Colliedog]

Looking at the arrangement wouldn't moving it down a hole increase travel of level thus braking?

Ram travel should be adjusted by the bolt stop at the rear of the ram. Moving up and down holes increases/decreases the leverage and braking performance, but as deleted user 837354 has pointed out you need to be careful to avoid locking the trailer brakes when the trailer is empty. Sometimes old worn brakes can be improved by changing the leverage hole.

 

[deleted user 837354]

Ram travel should be adjusted by the bolt stop at the rear of the ram. Moving up and down holes increases/decreases the leverage and braking performance, but as deleted user 837354 has pointed out you need to be careful to avoid locking the trailer brakes when the trailer is empty. Sometimes old worn brakes can be improved by changing the leverage hole.

I seem to remember that changing the hole the pin was in would radically alter braking performance and was basically ill advised?

 

[Bobthebuilder]

Is the end of the shaft splined? If so move the leaver a spline

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Shirley you want to adjust the shoes there is a nut could be a square on the back of the drums

Unfortunately no, you just need to advance the cam intill the shoes are just touching everytime you adjust them. Similar to your lorry trailer brakes but they would have slack adjusters to facilitate the adjusting. Was very impressed recently when checking over some McConnel Silage trailers and sorting and air leak, they had automatic self adjusters. You hardly ever see them on ag stuff.