1992 Bateman Hi-Lo 2001

jamesy · Jan 31, 2023

I’ve bought a fairly tidy one of these to do my own spraying with. Now, I don’t know much about sprayers and the operators manual is somewhat sparse in any detail!
Any hints, tips or advice would be gratefully received! I’m not a complete numpty at figuring things out but at same time don’t want to budgerigar the machine.

for instance the hi & lowfor front and back wheels do they need to be either both hi or both low? Or is there an in between range with one in each?

JLLM · Jan 31, 2023

@DrWazzock , same as yours?

LH10 · Jan 31, 2023

I run front in tortoise and rear in hare in the field

DrWazzock · Jan 31, 2023

I tend to run both in tortoise in the field and both in hare on the road. If I’m climbing a sticky hill in field I switch the rear to hare, but I’ve never really had an explanation from anyone as to what the correct method is.

Lowland1 · Jan 31, 2023

In wet conditions I was told to run the rear in high as it pushes better and the rear wheels are less likely to spin. That’s with Househam’s but I think they all use Poclain motors.

DrWazzock · Jan 31, 2023

I tend to run with variator lever fully forward as I think swash plates prefer that and I set my land speed with using engine revs. So I leave engine revs at 1400 rpm and shove stick right forward to pull away and it will get up to 10k sharpish and sit there (on the 12” tyres.) If I’m climbing a hill I nudge the revs up slightly but it’s pretty could at keeping constant forward speed with constant engine speed considering it hydrostatic. I don’t have a working rate controller so drive at constant speed, and fixed 2 bar pressure with 05 flat fans. Not too drifty. Does all I need.

jamesy · Jan 31, 2023

Cheers for that folks, I’ve got lots of other questions to come!

DrWazzock · Jan 31, 2023

The tank holding down bolts are prone to allow leakage into the tank support frame. It might be worth replacing the bolt sealing washers if there’s signs of leakage, slapping plenty of sealant round the bolt heads and washers as well. While the bolts are out I’d try to thread a waxoyl spray pipe into the tank frame box section and give it a good dose of wax oil. Wish I’d done that last time I replaced the tank frame. I’m welding in new box section over the next month as it’s now an MOT failure point. If you are tightening bolts down onto a corroded frame then careful you don’t crack the tank if the frame surface is distorted by corrosion. If it looks dry and not corroded round the tank frame then probably best leave the bolts alone.
Change the hydraulic oil filters regularly and keep the hydraulic systems ckean. I filled both tanks with high spec hydraulic oil as there is a tendency for an internal leak to allow mixing of the two hydraulic systems oils. So I put the high spec hydraulic transmission oil in both tanks.
Failure of the internal seals in the steering rams is a common cause of wandering steering. You won’t see any leakage from the outside.
Other than that there’s nothing complicated about them. Check the hydraulic pumps are securely tightened to the engine otherwise it will quickly bust the coupling like mine did and then it’s a major job to replace. The bolts are quite dainty little things for the job they do.

DrWazzock · Jan 31, 2023

Always use Batemans for parts and advice. Their backup is second to none.

jamesy · Jan 31, 2023

DrWazzock said:
Always use Batemans for parts and advice. Their backup is second to none.

Yes, I was in touch with them about an operators manual as I was sure there must be a lot of missing pages in mine…. They sent through an electronic copy that was exactly the same as I had!

Sals dad · Jan 31, 2023

It’s very worrying when I had one new after a deutz engined Hilo and now they’re in the classic machinery section , I must be in the vintage worker section

will l · Jan 31, 2023

The bottom bolt on the boom lift ram can fail punching a hole through the tank check it isnt bent, Put an air seat in it, put a guage on the air system so you can keep an eye on it, Good machine ive done more hours than i care to remember in them, any questions just ask.

JR. · Feb 1, 2023

will l said:
The bottom bolt on the boom lift ram can fail punching a hole through the tank check it isnt bent, Put an air seat in it, put a guage on the air system so you can keep an eye on it, Good machine ive done more hours than i care to remember in them, any questions just ask.

@will l Which air seat have you got fitted? Most I have looked at would leave my feet dangling in the air

@jamesy
We have a 1993 vintage one of these for 20+ years now and it is a great bit of kit. Run the front in hare and rear in tort when spraying and flick rear to hare for travel. (local bateman chap told us to do it that way, not sure if it is right). Always make sure you are stopped when switching between high and low, be very careful about accidently trying to move when the park brake it on. We run twin lines with angled bubble jet holders to get the good coverage, nice to have twin lines because you can switch jet type according to speed. So if you need to slow right down on a rough area or around the headland you can use a finer jet in the other line to get the spray pattern. Our struggle is with boom stability - it does get on the rock for some reason and is very hard to get back to stable. We have uprated the springs and shocks to those used on bigger sprayers and it helps. We have just changed the tank to a 2300litre version, added a filling lance and run it with the Raven smart boom system for GPS switching. Plan to keep it going for many years yet, so I think you will be pleased with your purchase.

BUT

My god it can be rough to drive, rather noisey and a bit warm and there are much nice cabs to spend the day in

jamesy · Feb 1, 2023

JR. said:
@will l Which air seat have you got fitted? Most I have looked at would leave my feet dangling in the air

@jamesy
We have a 1993 vintage one of these for 20+ years now and it is a great bit of kit. Run the front in hare and rear in tort when spraying and flick rear to hare for travel. (local bateman chap told us to do it that way, not sure if it is right). Always make sure you are stopped when switching between high and low, be very careful about accidently trying to move when the park brake it on. We run twin lines with angled bubble jet holders to get the good coverage, nice to have twin lines because you can switch jet type according to speed. So if you need to slow right down on a rough area or around the headland you can use a finer jet in the other line to get the spray pattern. Our struggle is with boom stability - it does get on the rock for some reason and is very hard to get back to stable. We have uprated the springs and shocks to those used on bigger sprayers and it helps. We have just changed the tank to a 2300litre version, added a filling lance and run it with the Raven smart boom system for GPS switching. Plan to keep it going for many years yet, so I think you will be pleased with your purchase.

BUT

My god it can be rough to drive, rather noisey and a bit warm and there are much nice cabs to spend the day in

Thanks! All advice greatly received. Would I be right thinking there’s a clean water tank under the main tank? Looks that way. The induction hopper has a trigger lance at side of it, I’m assuming this is for washing out cans as there’s nothing in hopper itself to do so

JR. · Feb 1, 2023

Clean water tank should be under the main tank, but have never used ours. Our inducation hopper has the push down can cleaner in it. We have a lance to draw in from the 30l cans that hurt my dodgy wrist

Oh and never close the boom with the door open

jamesy · Feb 1, 2023

Any ideas what this black box with switch is for?

likewise these two switches on dash

will l · Feb 1, 2023

jamesy said:
Any ideas what this black box with switch is for?View attachment 1091554

likewise these two switches on dash
View attachment 1091556

1 blob marker switch right corresponding light comes on and you will hear the blob marker 12 volt compressor running and there should be air blowing out of the long pipe going to the bottom of the foam container.
2 left hand side is manual or auto rate control,ie adjusting your pressure to the forward speed. right one up and downs the pressure only when on manual

jamesy · Feb 1, 2023

will l said:
1 blob marker switch right corresponding light comes on and you will hear the blob marker 12 volt compressor running and there should be air blowing out of the long pipe going to the bottom of the foam container.
2 left hand side is manual or auto rate control,ie adjusting your pressure to the forward speed. right one up and downs the pressure only when on manual

Great thanks, makes sense. I think blob marker must have been removed & explains a tied up cable at back of cab.

will l · Feb 1, 2023

JR. said:
@will l Which air seat have you got fitted? Most I have looked at would leave my feet dangling in the air

@jamesy
We have a 1993 vintage one of these for 20+ years now and it is a great bit of kit. Run the front in hare and rear in tort when spraying and flick rear to hare for travel. (local bateman chap told us to do it that way, not sure if it is right). Always make sure you are stopped when switching between high and low, be very careful about accidently trying to move when the park brake it on. We run twin lines with angled bubble jet holders to get the good coverage, nice to have twin lines because you can switch jet type according to speed. So if you need to slow right down on a rough area or around the headland you can use a finer jet in the other line to get the spray pattern. Our struggle is with boom stability - it does get on the rock for some reason and is very hard to get back to stable. We have uprated the springs and shocks to those used on bigger sprayers and it helps. We have just changed the tank to a 2300litre version, added a filling lance and run it with the Raven smart boom system for GPS switching. Plan to keep it going for many years yet, so I think you will be pleased with your purchase.

BUT

My god it can be rough to drive, rather noisey and a bit warm and there are much nice cabs to spend the day in

Ive got just a cheap grammer that i run low, the best i ever had was out of a lorry and that used to go right down when you got off it and you could set the height and the firmness on that, check your yaw controls for boom stability can also be the shock absorbers,or the gas accumulator on the lift ram.

Nametab · Feb 24, 2023

DrWazzock said:
I tend to run both in tortoise in the field and both in hare on the road. If I’m climbing a sticky hill in field I switch the rear to hare, but I’ve never really had an explanation from anyone as to what the correct method is.

Climbing - highest axel in high, lowest in low, other way around downhill ( sorry got out of the habit of looking at the forum)

1992 Bateman Hi-Lo 2001

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