2005 Manitou MLT627 Turbo - question

[Cagle800]

Purchased a very used and abused Manitou 627T a month ago. Completely serviced it and with a few issues we have her up and running. But, while checking it out we found that the previous owner had left the air intake sensor just hanging down by the motor. We don't have any warning lights etc that are on. Can someone tell me exactly where the sensor is supposed to be mounted. The only place I've seen so far is the end of the breather box facing the radiator. But that would put it on the outside of the filter, not between the filter and the engine. Normally I would expect to see a slotted rubber boot over the hole on the filter housing but all that is there is the hole. I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

 

[ACEngineering]

Purchased a very used and abused Manitou 627T a month ago. Completely serviced it and with a few issues we have her up and running. But, while checking it out we found that the previous owner had left the air intake sensor just hanging down by the motor. We don't have any warning lights etc that are on. Can someone tell me exactly where the sensor is supposed to be mounted. The only place I've seen so far is the end of the breather box facing the radiator. But that would put it on the outside of the filter, not between the filter and the engine. Normally I would expect to see a slotted rubber boot over the hole on the filter housing but all that is there is the hole. I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

That hole on the air filter cover is a vent flap, can buy them separately to end cover.

Sensor is located at the back of the air filter box/housing near where the big hose connects. It's more than likely snapped off breaking the male stub off the filter box. Just blank it with a self tapping screw and forget about it. Change filter ever 500hrs as per service.

 

[Cagle800]

Problem solved. Thanks. Next question. The front steering cylinder is leaking and needs new seals. Is the removal of the steering cylinder a major job that the dealer would need to do or something that I can reasonably tackle.

 

[ACEngineering]

Problem solved. Thanks. Next question. The front steering cylinder is leaking and needs new seals. Is the removal of the steering cylinder a major job that the dealer would need to do or something that I can reasonably tackle.

No need to remove cylinder, take rod out on machine is easier.

Think will need to loosen axle mount bolts and lower it a couple inches possibly.

 

[ACEngineering]

Problem solved. Thanks. Next question. The front steering cylinder is leaking and needs new seals. Is the removal of the steering cylinder a major job that the dealer would need to do or something that I can reasonably tackle.

Seal kit is manitou only part if you want the steering sensor to work.

 

[Cagle800]

The MLT 627 has developed a loud popping grinding noise in the front axle. Also the front axle was very hot to the touch right in the middle. For a high hours machine what would be the best guess on whats going on. It was full of oil when we checked it. Thanks for any replies.

 

[Timbo]

The MLT 627 has developed a loud popping grinding noise in the front axle. Also the front axle was very hot to the touch right in the middle. For a high hours machine what would be the best guess on whats going on. It was full of oil when we checked it. Thanks for any replies.

It's f**ked.

Diff breaking up by sounds

 

[Cagle800]

I assume that I can rebuild it. Are their any issues that would prevent me from tearing it apart and rebuilding it.

 

[ACEngineering]

The MLT 627 has developed a loud popping grinding noise in the front axle. Also the front axle was very hot to the touch right in the middle. For a high hours machine what would be the best guess on whats going on. It was full of oil when we checked it. Thanks for any replies.

grunching and grinding sounds when braking or on full lock is due to oil, either desprate for an oil change or wrong type being used.

First turn steering on full lock and go check the double ujs on the drives of each corner, make sure its not them broken up, then drop the axle oil out of all 3 drain plugs and refill with genuine manitou axle and for good measure buy a 1litre can of manitou antisquark additive, put 1/2 can additive in axle then fill with oil.

Obvoiusly if you happen to find crown wheel and pinion teeth broken in the oil that come out then you got bigger problems!

 

[ACEngineering]

I assume that I can rebuild it. Are their any issues that would prevent me from tearing it apart and rebuilding it.

DONT tear it apart untill you checked ujs and changed the oil.

So many people ring me up saying "axle making noises so stripped it down but cant see anything wrong with it"

 

[Cagle800]

You were so right. Changed oil and put antisquark and problem is gone. Now I'm curious about the heat gauge. Most of the time when I turn the key on it pegs all the way to the right. Every now and then it works perfectly. I changed the sending unit on the motor. Had no effect. Still the same. Looked at other forums and it seems to be a common issue but no one has identified a fix. Wondering if it a wiring harness issue and I can run a new wire and fix it.

 

[ACEngineering]

You were so right. Changed oil and put antisquark and problem is gone. Now I'm curious about the heat gauge. Most of the time when I turn the key on it pegs all the way to the right. Every now and then it works perfectly. I changed the sending unit on the motor. Had no effect. Still the same. Looked at other forums and it seems to be a common issue but no one has identified a fix. Wondering if it a wiring harness issue and I can run a new wire and fix it.

Did you replace the right sender unit?
There are 2 next to each other, one is injector pump timing other is for temp warning light and gauge.

Most of the time it is the sender unit failed but occasionally it can be the gauge in cab.

 

[Cagle800]

Brake Master Cylinder is leaking. Is a rebuild seal kit an option or do I need to just replace it with a new one.

 

[ACEngineering]

Brake Master Cylinder is leaking. Is a rebuild seal kit an option or do I need to just replace it with a new one.

MLT 627 brake cylinder is a non assisted type, easy to reseal and yes kits are available although new cylinder isnt crazy price either so most just buy a new cylinder. Let me know if you want any parts sending, i send all over UK

 

[essexpete]

The same happened to me with a mk3 725. Against ACE's advice, I used a standard UTTO on an oil change and it sounded as though the diff was breaking up. The LSD was grabbing and the brakes squawking.

 

[Pistonbroke]

You were so right. Changed oil and put antisquark and problem is gone. Now I'm curious about the heat gauge. Most of the time when I turn the key on it pegs all the way to the right. Every now and then it works perfectly. I changed the sending unit on the motor. Had no effect. Still the same. Looked at other forums and it seems to be a common issue but no one has identified a fix. Wondering if it a wiring harness issue and I can run a new wire and fix it.

Temp gauge on ours does that,whack the dashboard and it works . Guessing faulty gauge or loose wire

 

[ACEngineering]

Temp gauge on ours does that,whack the dashboard and it works . Guessing faulty gauge or loose wire

will be the gauge

 

[Pistonbroke]

will be the gauge

Starts off past the red but works ok once warmed up

 

[Cagle800]

MLT 627 brake cylinder is a non assisted type, easy to reseal and yes kits are available although new cylinder isnt crazy price either so most just buy a new cylinder. Let me know if you want any parts sending, i send all over UK

Replaced bad brake master cylinder all was good. Now, pedal goes to the floor and I have to bleed the brakes and it works for a very short time. My question is how difficult is it to replace the brake seals in the axles. System is full with mineral oil but won't pump up.

 

[ACEngineering]

Replaced bad brake master cylinder all was good. Now, pedal goes to the floor and I have to bleed the brakes and it works for a very short time. My question is how difficult is it to replace the brake seals in the axles. System is full with mineral oil but won't pump up.

Rear is dead easy, just slip one trumpet housing off at a time, Front need to drop axle off on the floor or drop it down at a fair angle to get a trumpet off.

The piston return springs are a bit crap to get on and off and a simple tool needs to be made to press the piston back in with the new better style seals as its alot tighter fit.