2140 engine oil pressure

Battler86

Member
Morning,

The engine oil pressure light is coming on at idle on our 2140. Strangely the handbrake and air filter lights are also coming on with it. With a few revs all 3 lights disappear, but as soon as the engine is back to an idle the trio are back. If I disconnect the pressure sensor, all 3 stay off.

I've tested the air filter wire to ground and the light illuminates. Same job with the pressure sensor. So they are working individually.

Putting a gauge in place of the sensor shows a pressure of 10psi at idle and 50psi at full throttle. What pressure does the oil pump run at on these engines?

Thanks
 

box

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
NZ
10psi sounds about right for hot idle on an old engine, a touch on the low side. How many hours?

Most oil pressure switches turn on at about 6 psi (generally).

I'd be throwing another oil pressure switch at it.....someone else has probably got a better answer though
 
How often do you change oil?
We used to have 2040 and the oil needed changing every 100 hours with filter every other oil change according to instruction book but I changed oil and filter every 100 hours and never had any problems
 

Battler86

Member
Changed the pressure switch, exactly the same result. Without the wire on the switch, there is continuity between the switch spade and chassis at idle, which explains the light illumination. With a little rev the continuity breaks as expected. So the switch is working as it should so it seems.

Idle RPM is probably about 850-900. Tacho stopped working years ago so I can't be sure.

Just checked the pressures with a finer resolution gauge. 12psi @ idle, 53psi @ higher rev when cold. Not sure what they should actually be.

Tractors done 8500 hours.

Thanks for the replies
 
Last edited:

forblue

Member
Their is nothing wrong with red lights or switches the reason they all come on is to get your attention that engine oil pressure is low, don't worry too much if light is on at tick over so long as it go's out when increasing rev's, it is unfortunately a sign the engine is worn you could try going up a grade on oil viscosity, more so in the summer when everything get's hotter, if you are concerned put a gauge on and leave it on in cab that way you will notice if pressure get's even lower before any major damage, just remember sooner or later a major overhaul of engine will be needed at some time if you intend to keep the tractor......
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
Their is nothing wrong with red lights or switches the reason they all come on is to get your attention that engine oil pressure is low, don't worry too much if light is on at tick over so long as it go's out when increasing rev's, it is unfortunately a sign the engine is worn you could try going up a grade on oil viscosity, more so in the summer when everything get's hotter, if you are concerned put a gauge on and leave it on in cab that way you will notice if pressure get's even lower before any major damage, just remember sooner or later a major overhaul of engine will be needed at some time if you intend to keep the tractor......

As said, engine is worn so lower oil pressure than ideal putting the light on. Likely balance shaft bearings the main culprit. Raise idle speed on pump alittle but you're looking at a rebuild if intending to keep her a while.

Edit - assuming its got 15w-40 in the sump
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
How often do you change oil?
We used to have 2040 and the oil needed changing every 100 hours with filter every other oil change according to instruction book but I changed oil and filter every 100 hours and never had any problems
The sump of the 2140 is very small and holds little oil. However mine was worked very hard doing thousands of acres of mowing with a couple of Kidd Clipper240 and carting silage plus on the mixer wagon over the years. Using better oil than that specified when the tractor was new [what was then 'long drain' but is now a standard spec] I always changed the oil every 150 hours and filter every 300.
The tractor now has over 12,000 hours on the clock and 9800 of them were during my ownership. Never had an issue with the engine and it still has its original turbo and uses zero oil between services.
Transmission had issues at around 5000 hours when the HiLo and PTO clutch packs were rebuilt with an extra disc included in each. Also the ARM auto hitch, which had been rebuilt a couple of times, was replaced with a brand new complete hitch around that time. So it wasn't exactly wrapped in cotton wool during its life.
 
The sump of the 2140 is very small and holds little oil. However mine was worked very hard doing thousands of acres of mowing with a couple of Kidd Clipper240 and carting silage plus on the mixer wagon over the years. Using better oil than that specified when the tractor was new [what was then 'long drain' but is now a standard spec] I always changed the oil every 150 hours and filter every 300.
The tractor now has over 12,000 hours on the clock and 9800 of them were during my ownership. Never had an issue with the engine and it still has its original turbo and uses zero oil between services.
Transmission had issues at around 5000 hours when the HiLo and PTO clutch packs were rebuilt with an extra disc included in each. Also the ARM auto hitch, which had been rebuilt a couple of times, was replaced with a brand new complete hitch around that time. So it wasn't exactly wrapped in cotton wool during its life.
Do you get your lubricants from same
supplier as me?? A very helpful
Mr Rogers
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Do you get your lubricants from same
supplier as me?? A very helpful
Mr Rogers
No depends where I get them from but usually one of the following, in no particular order...

  • ACT for Fuchs
  • MF dealer for Morris and MF
  • Certas for whatever big brand they have an offer on for the spec of oil I need
  • NH dealer for Ambra brand
  • Occasionally a local motor factors for particular applications in 25litre or less quantity.
 

Battler86

Member
It's got 10w-30 in it currently. Will give her an oil change, and put some thicker viscosity stuff in her, see how it goes.

Can't for the life of me find out what the JD pressure rating should be.
 

Battler86

Member
Found the problem..... See attached.

This same block spun the balancer bushes about 6 years ago if I remember rightly. It was taken out, line bored, re-bushed and put back in with no issues to date. At the time I looked around for a replacement block, with no luck.

It's a bloody handy tractor in the yard, especially with the loader. And in summer it mainly goes on the tedder, stacks bales and drags a trailer. Occasionally it'll go on a Tarrup 306 mower without breaking much of a sweat.

I've just finished replacing the seals & friction plates in the HiLo, PTO and MFWD packs. It's also had a new transmission pump and all the O-rings replaced. The tractor owes us nothing, bar the transmission parts it's just had. As such, I'd rather sort this issue out one way or another and keep it knowing its history. Plus, given the time I've spent already, I'm not willing to give up now.

Would rather not have this block line bored again, and rather not risk throwing a 2nd hand short block in without having an overhaul (if I can find one).

Serious question..... What sort of a job is it to fit a 3050 engine out of a combine? The 6 cylinder engines are ten to a penny.

Thanks
 

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