B275 Again

X344chap

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Central Scotland
Replacing rings only - depends on whether your pistons and liners are still in specification - this is why the manual gives you service data - things like ring end gap etc. It also depends on whether you want to throw time and money at things - yes a mechanic will advise to replace everything - as its their livelihood and their risk and time if it doesn't work out.
If i'm doing the work and its my time and money - then i'm not going to replace a perfectly serviceable IH liner with an aftermarket one if i don't have a good reason to do this. If a set of rings brings it back into spec - then that's what its getting. This is old school mechanicking - i think we've lost a bit of this with today's replace or throwaway culture. I can see this from a machine shops perspective though.
 
Replacing rings only - depends on whether your pistons and liners are still in specification - this is why the manual gives you service data - things like ring end gap etc. It also depends on whether you want to throw time and money at things - yes a mechanic will advise to replace everything - as its their livelihood and their risk and time if it doesn't work out.
If i'm doing the work and its my time and money - then i'm not going to replace a perfectly serviceable IH liner with an aftermarket one if i don't have a good reason to do this. If a set of rings brings it back into spec - then that's what its getting. This is old school mechanicking - i think we've lost a bit of this with today's replace or throwaway culture. I can see this from a machine shops perspective though.
Everyone has there own ideas what to do
I have a dexta which we've had for a long time and needs engine overhaul as it knocks and as I have said here that we no longer are farming because
Of our neighbour so I would say that it will need filling with fuel perhaps half a dozen times during the summer as road runs is all it will be used for but I intend renewing pretty much everything whether it needs it or not
Also I have ford fergy from Canada and the same applies ... this is a bit unusual as it is fitted with Sherman
Hi/low and Howard reduction unit also I intend making new petrol tank to fit it
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Replacing rings only - depends on whether your pistons and liners are still in specification - this is why the manual gives you service data - things like ring end gap etc. It also depends on whether you want to throw time and money at things - yes a mechanic will advise to replace everything - as its their livelihood and their risk and time if it doesn't work out.
If i'm doing the work and its my time and money - then i'm not going to replace a perfectly serviceable IH liner with an aftermarket one if i don't have a good reason to do this. If a set of rings brings it back into spec - then that's what its getting. This is old school mechanicking - i think we've lost a bit of this with today's replace or throwaway culture. I can see this from a machine shops perspective though.
Each to there own, but I would replace the liners for to reasons, firstly there will be a small step at top of liner from ring wear, secondly and far more important in my eyes, is the fact the liners will of corroded on the outside, due to being a wet liner, , and liners that have been in from new, will be 50+ years old and won't last forever,
It's like thin ice on a pond, looks good from the top, but I would not walk in it
 
I understand what you are saying X344chap. With my current information It seems that an overhauled glow plug system should make my tractor serviceable for the winter. This will also allow me to double check the compression when warm to see how much higher it will be.
Once the gardening is done next spring, I can lay the tractor up for a while. Then the head can come off and we'll see what I have to work with. This is a job I'm only going to do once, so unless internal parts are nearly new in spec they will replaced. I am preparing for the worst case scenario so as to make sure there is enough money in the bank to do the job right now. I don't feel inclined to want to repair it again in 5 or 10 years. At 65 I'm getting tired of getting up every day and fixing stuff or bodging repairs to get a little more time out of it. I would like to be able to start enjoying some time off and relaxing without worrying about what needs fixing when I get home.
 

X344chap

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Central Scotland
Each to there own, but I would replace the liners for to reasons, firstly there will be a small step at top of liner from ring wear, secondly and far more important in my eyes, is the fact the liners will of corroded on the outside, due to being a wet liner, , and liners that have been in from new, will be 50+ years old and won't last forever,
It's like thin ice on a pond, looks good from the top, but I would not walk in it

I get this - if the liner is stepped and out of spec then it needs replaced. If there's a corrosion pin hole then it needs replaced. If you are paying someone to do it and time is money then there is the argument about replacing older parts and doing it once - so you don't have to go back and do it again.

This could mean a significant amount of money replacing parts that may still be serviceable.
There was also a question on another thread about whether the aftermarket replacements were as good quality as the OEM parts. I've got no view on this but its something else to think about.
 

X344chap

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Central Scotland
I understand what you are saying X344chap. With my current information It seems that an overhauled glow plug system should make my tractor serviceable for the winter. This will also allow me to double check the compression when warm to see how much higher it will be.
Once the gardening is done next spring, I can lay the tractor up for a while. Then the head can come off and we'll see what I have to work with. This is a job I'm only going to do once, so unless internal parts are nearly new in spec they will replaced. I am preparing for the worst case scenario so as to make sure there is enough money in the bank to do the job right now. I don't feel inclined to want to repair it again in 5 or 10 years. At 65 I'm getting tired of getting up every day and fixing stuff or bodging repairs to get a little more time out of it. I would like to be able to start enjoying some time off and relaxing without worrying about what needs fixing when I get home.
I understand where you are coming from - do it once and do it right - i enjoy the tearing down, measuring and checking - here a couple of pics of a previous project.
B250 290511 019.jpg
B250 290511 005.jpg
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
I get this - if the liner is stepped and out of spec then it needs replaced. If there's a corrosion pin hole then it needs replaced. If you are paying someone to do it and time is money then there is the argument about replacing older parts and doing it once - so you don't have to go back and do it again.

This could mean a significant amount of money replacing parts that may still be serviceable.
There was also a question on another thread about whether the aftermarket replacements were as good quality as the OEM parts. I've got no view on this but its something else to think about.

On my own tractor if the sleeves are watertight I don’t tend to pull them out as you can uncover more or even create worst problems around the sealing oring or disturb cracks between cylinders but yes if for anyone else liners out and then assess the block.
 
Is that before and after X344chap? I wish mine looked like the bottom picture, It's closer to the top photo without the brush.
I found some bolts to drill and tap for new style glow plugs today, 2 pounds each. They are an oil drain plug for some model of Volvo. This way I can make the hole any size I want and it will screw in and out if I ever need it to, for example, if I can't get plugs that size any more.
 

X344chap

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Central Scotland
any liners I have had out, all are rusty with pits from the water jacket,
I just put new liners in whatever,
I full.new kit is £200 why bother skimping, as for quality, I get from Engine fix uk, in over 20 kits, never a problem
It took me a week to get a liner out once - hydraulic puller, jacks, heat and freezing it, running a weld down inside it. Ended up breaking it up bit by bit with a cold chisel. I was sure i was going to ruin the block. After that i decided that if it didnt absolutely have to come out then it wasnt coming out. Ive had cracked liners with frost damage but not seen one leaking coolant through corrosion. The liners are quite thick.
 
I'm jealous. I was disappointed he wouldn't ship over here. I do believe I have acquired all the parts that I need to re-assemble my system. The new plugs are VW Jetta ones from the 1.9 engine, Bosch # 250201032. Do you think I would be safe to use the old straps or should I use wire? What gauge are you using?
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
I'm jealous. I was disappointed he wouldn't ship over here. I do believe I have acquired all the parts that I need to re-assemble my system. The new plugs are VW Jetta ones from the 1.9 engine, Bosch # 250201032. Do you think I would be safe to use the old straps or should I use wire? What gauge are you using?

You will need wires as the plugs are now wired in parallel as opposed to in series and the plugs have only one 4mm terminal. No idea on the wire gauge to be honest, I just picked a heavy wire from a bundle that I had!! It’s about 4mm overall diameter, more than adequate for a few seconds of heat.

Project on its wheels and out the door today
F2C29542-B0AA-453C-8D2C-8D4EE9918134.jpeg
 
That looks and sounds like what we call 10 gauge wire. I was thinking I would need something heavy like that. I'm having a re-think on the plugs. Did a test fit today and the new plugs will only extend into the cylinder about half what the original plug did, 30mm versus 55mm. Right now I can exchange them but if they go in and won't do the job, I'll be stuck with them.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
I'm jealous. I was disappointed he wouldn't ship over here.

. I'm having a re-think on the plugs. Did a test fit today and the new plugs will only extend into the cylinder about half what the original plug did, 30mm versus 55mm. Right now I can exchange them but if they go in and won't do the job, I'll be stuck with them.

as no one else has offered,
I am quite happy to buy you a set of the plugs from eBay for you, and since he won't post them to you,
and I will post them to you at cost,
pm me if you wanna do that
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
That looks and sounds like what we call 10 gauge wire. I was thinking I would need something heavy like that. I'm having a re-think on the plugs. Did a test fit today and the new plugs will only extend into the cylinder about half what the original plug did, 30mm versus 55mm. Right now I can exchange them but if they go in and won't do the job, I'll be stuck with them.

The home made ones I have are not long enough either but dies not seem to be a problem. They were a collection of s/h plugs from Ford, VW/ Citreon diesel engines etc. Technically the probe of the plug needs to extend into the combustion chamber just underneath the injector nozzle for the fuel to be injected over the hot probe to create a flam. I’ve had no bother with that 275 since and before with original plugs it was either repeated heating and cranking or a tow to get her going, starts straight away ever since.
 

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