Defender chassis

markpentre

Member
Location
wrexham
Be easy enough to do yourself. Very basic engineering. Even if it took a month to do as a fill in job the value of it once done will pay you better than anything else you could do for a month!!
 

markpentre

Member
Location
wrexham
This took 5 years to complete. Wish i had of gone Galv Chassis but was told to keep it as original as possible
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Ukjay

Member
Location
Wales!
Apologies for a slight detour - but what is everyones favourite Galv Paint over method - as when mine is getting done (sooner than later) - I do not want the shiny Glav showing?

Do you go Mordent or Raptor method, or do you prefer alternatives?
 

Smith31

Member
Now where is the fun in that?

What else can beat the classic LR pub talk. Yeah... I've got a late 90's Defender. Cool as fudge and reliable. No rust either. Flies through it's MOT. Utterly reliable.

I've kept it in mint condition, never let me down and can go anywhere unlike those soft SUVs or pick ups.

All I've done is basic maintenance like:

Rebuilt the engine and changed all the bottom end bearing shells whilst we were in there.

New turbo.

New wiring loom.

New clutch.

Reconditioned gearbox (well it was out because we were doing the clutch so thought might as well).

New exhaust- stainless so won't rot now.

New radiator and cooling package.

Then I changed the axles and fitted polyurethane bushes to the suspension- won't have any issues in future now I've done that.

Also, decided to change the chassis for a galvanised one. Couple that with aluminium body panels and hey presto, no rust.


See? It's a genuine Defender product mate. I've spent 60,000 on my Defender and my wife left me but heck, that truck is worth 50K now any day of the week. Shame I have to drive with one arm out the window because the Defender doesn't fit normal sized human beings.

Haha excellent (y)
 

R&D

Member
Apologies for a slight detour - but what is everyones favourite Galv Paint over method - as when mine is getting done (sooner than later) - I do not want the shiny Glav showing?

Do you go Mordent or Raptor method, or do you prefer alternatives?

Painting one today, T-washed, 2 coats of 2 pk zinc phosphate epoxy primer followed by 2 coats of 2 pk epoxy top coat
 

Ukjay

Member
Location
Wales!
Apologies for a slight detour - but what is everyones favourite Galv Paint over method - as when mine is getting done (sooner than later) - I do not want the shiny Glav showing?

Do you go Mordent or Raptor method, or do you prefer alternatives?

Painting one today, T-washed, 2 coats of 2 pk zinc phosphate epoxy primer followed by 2 coats of 2 pk epoxy top coat

Have you done it before - does it chip easy?
 

Barleycorn

Member
BASE UK Member
Location
Hampshire
Not sure now, but there used to be a good market in America. They had to be untouched as from the factory though, else no import licence would be issued. My daughter had the turbo engine in her 90 changed for a 300 TDi, probably hit the value, but a least it goes uphill now!
 

David1985

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Dorset
Been talking to my wife and as well as reading advice on here, gonna get it done at a local garage. They will fit a chassis of my choice with new brake lines etc for £1500, labour. Would love to fit it myself but time is gonna be a big constraint. While it’s apart I’m gonna get a new clutch, timing belt, suspension and bushes all round and anything else that needs doing that’s easier while it’s separated.

Also got a 76 series 3 in a barn that needs a full restoration at some point so I can do that myself one day. Only had it ten years so I’m doing well. Got 7 years left as my son wants it for a car he’s now ten.....

Land Rovers are like marmite you either love them or hate them....
 

Deutzdx3

Member
My 110 has a galv chassis. Only reason I bought it. Whilst it’s apart, swap the suspension out for airbags. Make it much nicer to drive. Only have to worry about bushes ball joints and linkages now.
 

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