Establishing grass this spring

Deere 6430

Member
In the spring I want to put down a few fields of Westerwolds grass About 70 acres in total

My idea in October was to plough over the winter and then work into a seedbed in the spring and sow

BUT the stubbles so far are either un sprayed from harvest or sprayed but not ploughed. Some were wheat and some were oats.

Westerwolds is fast growing I’m told but I’m not sure if it is a fussy seed on how it is drilled, i know most grass seeds like a clean seedbed hence the ploughing.

Has anyone established grass seed in the spring as earlier as possible, without ploughing and it been a success? I have lots of options, could direct drill it, never tried that before? Still hope to plough it but with fields still under water in places i might be dreaming, mintill a seedbed and spray before sowing?

All ideas welcome. Ground is heavy end of medium with some clay so can be tricky until it’s fairly well dried up. I know the weather after sowing will have a big influence but hoping to still have some moisture in the mid spring.

Many years ago I rotavated a piece of over wintered stubble that had been sprayed in the spring with roundup and then sowed it. Of course it was a great success but it was only about half an acre!
 
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In the spring I want to put down a few fields of Westerwolds grass About 70 acres in total

My idea in October was to plough over the winter and then work into a seedbed in the spring and sow

BUT the stubbles so far are either un sprayed from harvest or sprayed but not ploughed. Some were wheat and some were oats.

Westerwolds is fast growing I’m told but I’m not sure if it is a fussy seed on how it is drilled, i know most grass seeds like a clean seedbed hence the ploughing.

Has anyone established grass seed in the spring as earlier as possible, without ploughing and it been a success? I have lots of options, could direct drill it, never tried that before? Still hope to plough it but with fields still under water in places i might be dreaming, mintill a seedbed and spray before sowing?

All ideas welcome. Ground is heavy end of medium with some clay so can be tricky until it’s fairly well dried up. I know the weather after sowing will have a big influence but hoping to still have some moisture in the mid spring.

Many years ago I rotavated a piece of over wintered stubble that had been sprayed in the spring with roundup and then sowed it. Of course it was a great success but it was only about half an acre!

Westerwolds- doesn't matter what you do or how successful it is (so long as it works) as it ain't gonna live that long. Got weed grass ingress? What does it matter if the stuff doesn't do more than one season?

Plough it or don't, just put it in with a drill or grass harrow box.

BUT

If sowing in the spring, drill 25kg/acre of spring barley first, then put the grass seed on top.

Take a picture next spring once the weeds begin to appear. I will tell you what to spray it with and when.

Spray off, then min-till in. No need to plough stubbles.

Keep the seed rate up if using big tetraploids.
 
Broadcasting would be my preferred option, I could add in a few extras of grasses if needed. Can’t be with spring barley though as I want to cut it.

Grass seed is too expensive to broadcast these days.

Put the spring barley in with a corn drill. Put the grass seed in with a grass harrow box.

As soon as the rows have emerged put on 50 units of N.

As soon as the grass has 2-3 leaves and/or weeds appear, take a picture and post it. It will want spraying for broad leaved weeds.

Cut the lot with a mower around the first week of July. Chop and pit it.
 

multi power

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
Grass seed is too expensive to broadcast these days.

Put the spring barley in with a corn drill. Put the grass seed in with a grass harrow box.

As soon as the rows have emerged put on 50 units of N.

As soon as the grass has 2-3 leaves and/or weeds appear, take a picture and post it. It will want spraying for broad leaved weeds.

Cut the lot with a mower around the first week of July. Chop and pit it.
Grass Harrow is broadcasting is it not?
 

KB6930

Member
Location
Borders
Grown westerwolds a few times now both drilled in rows and broadcast it doesn't tiller either way never found it to be too fussy how it was sown.
You'll know your own land but if you can plough it now and get it weathered it'll break down well in the spring
Some of the best crops of grass we are getting now are established behind the sumo then power harrow drilled or power harrowed then drilled with grass harrow grass likes a firm seedbed so discing or rotavating it will work well too
 
I agree it has to be rolled.

Don't panic about whether you sumo or plough it- the ley isn't staying long enough to worry about that and it won't know either way. In some ways if you have just grown a crop and cleaned it up then min-tilling the stuff in makes more sense as you won't have the same level of weeds to worry about.
 
They both do EXACTLY the same job, a drill forms a slot of some kind that the seed goes into and is covered
Grass harrows for the purpose of sowing grass seed has to be the most pointless machine ever seen on a farm

A grass harrow is a darn sight cheaper and simpler than any drill I know of. More to the point, the grass harrows spread seed evenly and cover it, meaning there are no drill lines in your grass. I would class it as being superior to any drill actually, and I know for a fact most contractors charge less for that service as well.

Putting seed in a fertiliser spreader is utter madness, you can't throw the stuff for toffee.

Believe me, I have walked enough acres of grass behind every kind of conceivable machine to know the difference.
 

multi power

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
A grass harrow is a darn sight cheaper and simpler than any drill I know of. More to the point, the grass harrows spread seed evenly and cover it, meaning there are no drill lines in your grass. I would class it as being superior to any drill actually, and I know for a fact most contractors charge less for that service as well.

Putting seed in a fertiliser spreader is utter madness, you can't throw the stuff for toffee.

Believe me, I have walked enough acres of grass behind every kind of conceivable machine to know the difference.
You obviously don't know much about growing grass, the best way to sow grass is with a seed box, the grass that emerges in lines is better, allows a far superior establishment of clover, and in any case once it has had the second grazing it will have tillered to the extent that the lines are impossible to see
For what it's worth I can sow grass perfectly accurately with a small cheap fertiliser sower
 
You obviously don't know much about growing grass, the best way to sow grass is with a seed box, the grass that emerges in lines is better, allows a far superior establishment of clover, and in any case once it has had the second grazing it will have tillered to the extent that the lines are impossible to see
For what it's worth I can sow grass perfectly accurately with a small cheap fertiliser sower

I believe I know enough about growing grass yes.

I would not suggest people put the stuff in a fertiliser spreader. The clue is in the name.

Grass does not benefit from being sown in lines as far as I can see. I've walked enough of it.
 

Agri Spec Solicitor

Member
Livestock Farmer
My conclusion is local knowledge is king.
A Moore type drill is clearly a great tool but on our clay fields it’s press wheels seal the plasticine soil over the seed into a tomb from which it can’t escape.
We have a KRM fert spinner with grass kit which works perfectly for seeds onto soil, and overseeding clover once all weeds sprayed. But it needs a wind free day and we can’t always wait.
The combi drill option works fine on soil as long as contractor is available when we need him.
We have just bought an old Vicon air drill (not Harrow mounted) and the plan is to use it on soil after we have harrowed it, and also for over seeding thin areas and clover. Should travel lightly if it’s soft going. It will also sow cereal which is a big advantage for us.
For spring sown seed in our cold wet climate we don’t get in a hurry. No point puddling it in. Lack of moisture is not a problem here .....usually. Heat is the limiting factor here. Probably means nearer to end of April as a target date.
We prefer autumn seeding.
 

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