ThatsSomeSheep
Member
Pics / info / advice / costs sought from anyone who has converted an ifor trailer to LED lighting.
Thanks in advance
TSS
Thanks in advance
TSS
-
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LED my sheep trailer
- Thread starter ThatsSomeSheep
- Start date
- Location
- Easter ross
I’ll take some later of what I did to ours and hope someone might help too. Replaced the standard halogens a few years ago with leds and worked fine. Replaced my truck last year and indicators blink really fast. Added an extra set of high line led lights to increase the draw which has cured the blinking on the bottom ones but the top ones don’t work at all. Been and tested the rear light box. Earth issue perhaps? @Mursal ?
- Location
- Easter ross
Nothing on the top ones. Tried piggybacking off the same earth in the junction box.
Timbo
Member
- Location
- Gods County
Best practice for LED tail lamps is 2 load resistors for the indicators to ensure the ALL vehicles recognise the extra load and flash at the correct rate.
TripleSix
Member
- Location
- Helmsley, North Yorkshire
You could have a polarity issue.
Don't assume the wire colours are the same across all lights.
Or even assume they're logical.
Mursal
Member
Find the common wire in the new top lights = earth regardless of colour.
Connect it to the White wire coming off the 7 pin trailer socket, but worth checking this is actually earth. You can see this on the working lights, what wire is common to all LED's in the light unit = earth.
With the earth found on the trailer and the new lights earth connected to it, connect each light in turn.
Side, stop, then indicators ...........
If you still have nothing working check new lights across a battery, fuse the test wire.
Connect it to the White wire coming off the 7 pin trailer socket, but worth checking this is actually earth. You can see this on the working lights, what wire is common to all LED's in the light unit = earth.
With the earth found on the trailer and the new lights earth connected to it, connect each light in turn.
Side, stop, then indicators ...........
If you still have nothing working check new lights across a battery, fuse the test wire.
- Location
- Easter ross
Just been out with at it and indicators are working but no sidelights/brakes up high. Tried changing wires about as like you say sometimes they aren’t what they should be.
Difficult to get a decent earth with my light meter on the trailer makes me think thats half the problem. Maybe take the grinder to clean up a section and get a good earth first?
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
My LM146 has just been done, front markers, rear tail/stop/ind and 2 number plate lights. Looked to be about £100 from the local IW dealer (they were bought for me, so ive just done a quick mental tot up of the labels prices i can remember)
Very pleased, They work fine on the fourtrak and 2012 vivaro. I had load resistors unused from my stock trailer conversion and still haven't needed them.
- Location
- East Sussex
Right, silly question time! Does putting a load resistor in the circuit mean that the led lights now become high current lighting the same as a standard bulb?
Mursal
Member
Difficult to get a decent earth with my light meter on the trailer makes me think thats half the problem. Maybe take the grinder to clean up a section and get a good earth first?
Best not to use the body of the trailer as an earth, go back to the earth wire coming in on the plug (nearest junction box), should be white in colour, pin 3. If no local junction box, connect in to a working light and extend the earth with a flying lead to the new lights to test?
A sign of a bad earth:
When you only have on light on it works fine, but when you turn on more and more lights they all work a bit (dim).
If you have good bright indicators even with sidelights ON check supply wires, as you can see you have one for each sidelight.
Mursal
Member
Yes exactly the same as the old bulbs, but they don't blow with vibration.
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Or fall apart, or get filled with rain and crap
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
I don't know about other models of other ages but my ifor had lovely junction boxes front and rear, all the main lights i was given had long enough leads to terminate back in here preventing external soldered or crimped joints, just the number plate lights had short leads
I'm sure @UTV Products will help, they did a complete spec for me when we built our drill logistics trailer and it has worked fantastically so far (3 years on) top quality stuff and available on www.marketplace.farm
ThatsSomeSheep
Member
Mursal
Member
How are you on electrics, are you going to do the conversion yourself?
If so, get the nearest light available to the original and connect one wire at a time.
The most important thing as mentioned above is to keep all connections / junctions watertight.
If you want to have a wee look on E-Bay just for reference, tap in LED taillights, then you can be more up to speed when @UTV Products get in contact with you.
You may well need to fit resistors to keep the indicator warning lights working properly, but their on big deal (make a bit of room in the junction box if needed).
If so, get the nearest light available to the original and connect one wire at a time.
The most important thing as mentioned above is to keep all connections / junctions watertight.
If you want to have a wee look on E-Bay just for reference, tap in LED taillights, then you can be more up to speed when @UTV Products get in contact with you.
You may well need to fit resistors to keep the indicator warning lights working properly, but their on big deal (make a bit of room in the junction box if needed).
- Location
- Staffordshire