suffolksmallholder
Member
- Location
- Suffolk
-
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Power float or not
- Thread starter rob h
- Start date
Me or him?
rob h
Member
- Location
- east yorkshire
Sorry bit confusing. I think I will have to decline ss.offer but yours looks just the job iv sent you a pm.but any way doseit all work ok .and have you a number I can contact you on
Sorry to intrude and I have no intention to demean but it’s probably a waste of time if you don’t have a laser to set things up in the first place. I know good concrete guys at the right price are hard to come by but at the end of the day a floor slab is a big investment and will be there for a long while. It’s in your best interest for it to be right. It is definitely worth the investment in terms of dusting and holding moisture, even drainage.
Steevo
Member
- Location
- Gloucestershire
I'm inclined to agree - all depends on the size of the floor slab going down.
A ridge and furrow floor with a perfectly smooth (but not level) top skin would certainly take away a lot of the benefits of the power floating.
rob h
Member
- Location
- east yorkshire
Yes we have a lazer level. Getting it level isn’t a problem I just want a smooth hard wearing finish.
rob h
Member
- Location
- east yorkshire
The first part will be 25ft by 60ft.
Steevo
Member
- Location
- Gloucestershire
You're braver than me attempting that yourself.
It's a bit small for some professionals I would think, but a bit too big for DIY. I'd certainly consider getting someone to come in and do it if you can stretch to it and make it happen. The finished result would certainly be worth it!
rob h
Member
- Location
- east yorkshire
Theirs 2of us and I can get help in if needed.havent decided wether to do it in 2 or 1 go.its old piggery I’m just clearing it out of all the that’s been stored since the pigs left then some old concrete to remove then we can see how it’s going to fit
Do you weigh the damp course down at all?Tell you what; I'll offer my machine for half the price.......£150.1/2 the time and way less effort and it starts every time even in the winter!
Shown on the concrete it smooths with a brass thingy for scale......
I'm just South of Naaaarwich. Cash on collection please.
SS
suffolksmallholder
Member
- Location
- Suffolk
My bays were 16' x 20'. (4.9m x 6.0m) You do need an oppo who can concentrate on the job-in-hand and keep the tension on. I made three passes over each slab and the picture shows the result. I park my 7.5 ton machine in the building and sweep its debris out off the nice smoothe surface. Time taken; nine minutes.........and walk away.
In answer to your Q NO just my first suggestion; Tension & a nice sawing action.
SS
- Location
- YO42
Go and hire a power float from Fairfax Rob`.
Unless floor is for livestock id float all shed floors They are easy to clean and dry quickly . A power float finish seems to make the surface harder and are less dusty
Ive floated a few floors dont let it it cure to much before start When you do the last pass go over again with a tiny bit of water to get a mirror finish
Unless floor is for livestock id float all shed floors They are easy to clean and dry quickly . A power float finish seems to make the surface harder and are less dusty
Ive floated a few floors dont let it it cure to much before start When you do the last pass go over again with a tiny bit of water to get a mirror finish
rob h
Member
- Location
- east yorkshire
All sorted now i bought the one from mo.ive got a few bits to do over the next couple of years so thought it’ll workout cheaper.just got the shed emptied .now got to dig the old floor out
A pleasure doing business as well.
rob h
Member
- Location
- east yorkshire
Can you put a pit in rob , ,always fancied one when doing back end oil ,and crawling under stuff ,greasing forky and trailers etc ,
rob h
Member
- Location
- east yorkshire
This first bit is for storage and workshop over flow .i bought a 4post ramp years ago when a local garage got re developed .it’s been at the back of a shed waiting for a suitable building.the one it was going in got used as a grain store temporarily one year.we then decided it was a lot easier than our bins we were using so it’s permanent grain store now. The building were going to use isn’t high enough so we’re adding 1 bay extra on the end for the ramp 4ft taller.but that will be next year.we have a pit in the current workshop and it’s ok but I seem to spend half my time climbing in and out
I have my own power float too. Again bought off eBay. Always start with the pan on. If it’s for livestock leave it flat but not smooth. Only use the blades if it’s for machinery, workshop or storage etc.
I have had to get power floated floors grooved to ensure livestock won’t slip.
Now have a roller to imprint the surface after floating with the pan.
I usually have fibres added to the mix. Never seen one lift after power floating the surface.
I have had to get power floated floors grooved to ensure livestock won’t slip.
Now have a roller to imprint the surface after floating with the pan.
I usually have fibres added to the mix. Never seen one lift after power floating the surface.
it’s neither all that hard nor is it rocket science.
two things to remember.
You usually start to lay at the end furthest from the door. This is where you will need to start with your float. Hang it up out of the way so that you can start at that end.
Secondly, concrete gangs order it without retarders or water reducing agent. WRA. This is so that you can get on it that bit quicker.
- Tags
- grain store