Show me your pusher please.

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
Right, we’ve been struggling to keep up with the combine pushing grain up in the temporary store using just the bucket on the tele-handler.

So I’m thinking of knocking together a grain pusher (because I’ve not got enough to do in the workshop:facepalm:) nothing massive probably 3.5-4m length with maybe an 8’ blade?Hopefully it will speed up the turnaround on tipping time a little?


Anyway I’m looking for some inspiration, so if you’ve built your own pusher and would like to share some pics it would be most appreciated.

I’ve seen plenty using a massive piece of tube with a blade on but I’m not looking to go and spend a fortune on fancy steal! More something along the lines of a box section space frame maybe? (I’ve got loads of 2” box in stock:))

Thanks in advance for your input.
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
From experience of a couple including a 16’ one @Phil P don’t use box section or fit horizontal gussets, you will carry grain back to run over every time you reverse, make it out of tube and the grain then all falls off.
Now that’s some useful feedback, thanks @chaffcutter

Do you think box would work if it was made more of a diamond ♦️ to stop grain sitting on it? Would mean more work on the joints though I suppose.
 

KB6930

Member
Location
Borders
I'll get pics of my homemade one tomorrow

Made from 4 inch box and an 8ft by 3ft blade from memory about 12ft maybe a bit longer

You get a bit of grain lying on the box if it comes over the blade but just a quick flick on the tip/crowd ram soon shifts it .

You can't shift grain much quicker than with the bucket as extra length you loose hydraulic power but you can get it higher but with more small shoves
 

Robert K

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Essex
A 6 metre suton pusher here ideal in the big sheds and also no where for grain to sit
IMG_20190715_195842478_HDR.jpg
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
if you could pick up some decent tube out of a scrap yard it id save a lot of cutting and welding, and time too.
of course when you want something there would be none of it about but ive managed to pick up 20' lths of 12" and 14" tube in the past for civil money.
might be worth making a few calls about to see if anyone had anything first before you'd start.

seen this on ebay, its dear but well made, simple design.
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
if you could pick up some decent tube out of a scrap yard it id save a lot of cutting and welding, and time too.
of course when you want something there would be none of it about but ive managed to pick up 20' lths of 12" and 14" tube in the past for civil money.
might be worth making a few calls about to see if anyone had anything first before you'd start.

seen this on ebay, its dear but well made, simple design.
I saw that when I was having a look what’s knocking about on eBay, looks nice apart from the price. We do have a steel merchant locally who gets a lot of decent used steel could be worth a call, it’s not much cheaper than new though!

What sort of steel thickness is the blade section? 4/5mm plate?
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
I made one for my A level Design technology project back in 2006, still going strong.

I used 50mm box welded on at a 45 deg angle (so it’s like a diamond) to stop grain sitting on it.
For a blade I used a sheet of 25mm plywood. Protects the floor and works well.
Now that sounds like what I’m thinking of, any pictures please?
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
I saw that when I was having a look what’s knocking about on eBay, looks nice apart from the price. We do have a steel merchant locally who gets a lot of decent used steel could be worth a call, it’s not much cheaper than new though!

What sort of steel thickness is the blade section? 4/5mm plate?
I was going to say 6mm but If Andrew made one out of 25mm ply then my idea of 6mm is overkill so 4 or 5mm sounds right enough altho if I was making it I'd still use 6mm, you could use some of what's left over for gussets.

The lad I get my steel off is about £230 a tonne and most of his steel is new offcuts, there is a large engineering crowd not far away who weighs in the surplus every so often.
 

Andrew

Never Forgotten
Honorary Member
Location
Huntingdon, UK
Here you go @Phil P

Not good pictures as we haven’t got it out yet but this is the one I built. The arms are angled to give support where it’s needed - 3 points at the bottom, 2 at the top. Also 2 struts go from the tip of the brackets to the bottom of the blade, and back frame behind the ply.
The plywood is an 8x4 sheet, 1” thick. Cut 1ft off to make it 8x3, easier to see over the top. Then I bolted the off-cut on the bottom so it’s 2” thick, makes it glide over the floor and doesn’t damage it.

DF4CF08E-6452-4D4E-875A-64CAF4DE1671.jpeg
CFB47E02-57E8-41C4-BC03-F353C1870942.jpeg
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
Here you go @Phil P

Not good pictures as we haven’t got it out yet but this is the one I built. The arms are angled to give support where it’s needed - 3 points at the bottom, 2 at the top. Also 2 struts go from the tip of the brackets to the bottom of the blade, and back frame behind the ply.
The plywood is an 8x4 sheet, 1” thick. Cut 1ft off to make it 8x3, easier to see over the top. Then I bolted the off-cut on the bottom so it’s 2” thick, makes it glide over the floor and doesn’t damage it.

View attachment 824707View attachment 824708
Now that’s what I’m talking about(y), do you have it patented?:whistle:
 

stroller

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Somerset UK
Here's mine will push wheat 10' high with boom out on my manitou, made it short so its more manoeuvrable, it's got a sheet of rubber on the bottom of the blade to stop marking the wood floor.
IMG_20190731_092711.jpg

If I have to redo the blade I would make it wider and curve the ends forward. The bracing that goes to the edge of the blade stops me catching the blade on stanchions when reversing
 

Hesstondriver

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Huntingdon
Here you go @Phil P

Not good pictures as we haven’t got it out yet but this is the one I built. The arms are angled to give support where it’s needed - 3 points at the bottom, 2 at the top. Also 2 struts go from the tip of the brackets to the bottom of the blade, and back frame behind the ply.
The plywood is an 8x4 sheet, 1” thick. Cut 1ft off to make it 8x3, easier to see over the top. Then I bolted the off-cut on the bottom so it’s 2” thick, makes it glide over the floor and doesn’t damage it.

View attachment 824707View attachment 824708
Next you’ll be telling everyone you made it in metal work class at school
 

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