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I know but I was replying to Robbies scenarioFrit fly would show as dead hearts. The OP's photo showed good second leaves & damaged fist ones.
Frit fly would show as dead hearts. The OP's photo showed good second leaves & damaged fist ones.
Assume this was intended for me, previous crops all cut in the same direction as its the outer 2 works round the headland so always cut the same way. Discing was only light so not much incorporation. Thinking its probably pre-em damage mixed with dry soil slowing establishment due to the nearby trees.was the previous crop cut in the opposite direction to the new crop. if so was the straw chopped as it could be a double dose of straw incorporated. on the other hand my reply could be a pile of s***.
Why do You need to do all this tillage pases if You have striptill drill?
Very important IMO, One of the reasons I have never embraced No Till despite its many attractions.To create a better stale seedbed and reduce the wheat volunteers from the previous crop. I do this where I'm growing a winter cereal different to the one I harvested a few weeks before.
Experiences so far have taught me that drilling a winter cereal crop into a cereal stubble doesn't always get ideal establishment due to the amount of chopped straw covering the soil surface keeping it wet if things turn a bit sticky in October. A quick shallow pass with the discs in September followed by a press once its hazelled over seems to make it a bit more weatherproof, dries out a bit quicker if it gets wet and chops up and incorporates a bit of straw. Years where its as dry as this has been means a stubble rake doesn't get much penetration to create a tilth though still does a good job of spreading chopped straw about and getting small seeds like OSR volunteers to grow.Why do You need to do all this tillage pases if You have striptill drill?
Experiences so far have taught me that drilling a winter cereal crop into a cereal stubble doesn't always get ideal establishment due to the amount of chopped straw covering the soil surface keeping it wet if things turn a bit sticky in October. A quick shallow pass with the discs in September followed by a press once its hazelled over seems to make it a bit more weatherproof, dries out a bit quicker if it gets wet and chops up and incorporates a bit of straw. Years where its as dry as this has been means a stubble rake doesn't get much penetration to create a tilth though still does a good job of spreading chopped straw about and getting small seeds like OSR volunteers to grow.
From my experience in striptill I can hinestly say that all problems we create in our heads, because we dont realy trust in system. When You realise sudnly that You cant work against Mother nature, all problem more or less sort out by them self. Right crop rotation and focuss on Your soil not Your pocket is the key answer. I know it sounds like crazy religian, but it works....Experiences so far have taught me that drilling a winter cereal crop into a cereal stubble doesn't always get ideal establishment due to the amount of chopped straw covering the soil surface keeping it wet if things turn a bit sticky in October. A quick shallow pass with the discs in September followed by a press once its hazelled over seems to make it a bit more weatherproof, dries out a bit quicker if it gets wet and chops up and incorporates a bit of straw. Years where its as dry as this has been means a stubble rake doesn't get much penetration to create a tilth though still does a good job of spreading chopped straw about and getting small seeds like OSR volunteers to grow.
The ones around here put an absolute minimal amount through the combine, so at time of drilling (or broadcasting) there is basically nothing to incorporate, preventing issues - usually the first dose of N begins the standing residue's descent, and lies over in time to form a layer of litter to stop raindrops splashing soil on the second & third leaves, which reduces the fungicide requirement in a fairly damp climateThis! Very much this. I’m glad I’m not alone in thinking like that. I’ve never quite got my head around how ultra low disturbance no tillers manage to make this work without a serious residue and volunteer problem. Not for a short field turnaround time anyway.
I’ve never quite got my head around how ultra low disturbance no tillers manage to make this work
We bale all our straw and put it back as composted fym aand arbor waste for this reason. Helps with slugs as well.Rotation - I don’t grow 2nd cereals as a rule
We bale all our straw and put it back as composted fym aand arbor waste for this reason. Helps with slugs as well.
We bale all our straw and put it back as composted fym aand arbor waste for this reason. Helps with slugs as well.
^^^^^^^^^^^
as above
if you are not baling the straw, why cut low ?
if you don't cut low for baling straw, why are you chopping straw ?
putting all that straw through a machine & then chopping it also, slows down harvest efficiency & uses more fuel . . .
if you don't have a lot of low cut, chopped straw, you don't have incorporation issues . . .
tall standing stubble is the easiest to deal with, as long as you have appropriate planting equipment