davidroberts30
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
Ah mines a t3It’s a T2 so not very exciting. It’s a while since they were purchased so I’d need to trawl my purchase history.
Ah mines a t3It’s a T2 so not very exciting. It’s a while since they were purchased so I’d need to trawl my purchase history.
Mines a teir2 so I’d be very interestedIt’s a T2 so not very exciting. It’s a while since they were purchased so I’d need to trawl my purchase history.
Next time I have a spare hour I'm going to run 16amp twin core from the battery and use relays so the lamps get full power
I've checked and said on here somewhere before now,there was about 10.5 volts at the headlight plugsBefore you do that, see what voltage you have across the bulbs?
If you have battery voltage (whatever that is on the day) less about half a volt, then you'll gain very little. But if you find you have far less than battery voltage across the bulbs, well worth doing.
i never checked mine but after the 3rd headlight stalk i fitted last summer id had enough...I've checked and said on here somewhere before now,there was about 10.5 volts at the headlight plugs
ive tested the stalk before on mine and it was passing all the voltage it couldi never checked mine but after the 3rd headlight stalk i fitted last summer id had enough...
too much load passing thru it, massey in there wisdom fitted a relay on the full beam circuit to fix this but forgot about the dipped beam where there is only just slightly less
current passing thru the complete switch contacts.... so i added in a relay on that also & at the same time ran 16amp Positive & Negative rated feed directly from the battery right
to the lights upfront eliminating all of the previous issues (I HOPE)
all working fine since.
Not much brighter but the better bulbs helped.
I see on the demo 6718S i had a few weeks ago that headlight multi function switch doesnt latch between main & dipped beam now.
so at first is a bit confusing, also the indicators finally self cancel (Progress)
the contacts will melt eventually depending on how long your lights are on for trust me.ive tested the stalk before on mine and it was passing all the voltage it could
Just fit leds then much lower current required.the contacts will melt eventually depending on how long your lights are on for trust me.
The quality of that part isn't that good, not to run full current through anyways.
I can’t find them in my purchase history, must be over 3yo. Easy fix as they are standard main/dip bulbs, just a lot of choices.Mines a teir2 so I’d be very interested
you changed the bulbs not the whole lamps?I can’t find them in my purchase history, must be over 3yo. Easy fix as they are standard main/dip bulbs, just a lot of choices.
I've checked and said on here somewhere before now,there was about 10.5 volts at the headlight plugs
what are we talking aboutOk then so the memory isn't as good as it was ..........
I wanted to change the whole lot, because the glass is cloudy, but couldn't be sure of buying something that would fit.you changed the bulbs not the whole lamps?
i tried LED bulbs in mine but the led bulb was too long to fit in
Yea that’s my trouble my lights are knackered so wanted to replace with a full LED unit if I couldI wanted to change the whole lot, because the glass is cloudy, but couldn't be sure of buying something that would fit.
Part number UTV341 on Farm Marketplace is a good start for upgrading herYea that’s my trouble my lights are knackered so wanted to replace with a full LED unit if I could
Square pegs in round holes.Part number UTV341 on Farm Marketplace is a good start for upgrading her
Must be a Cheshire thing with meSquare pegs in round holes.
I’ve got some square ones that dip on one tractor they work spot onBut dip main beam LED's isn't going to be easy.
Might be better to replace with Halogen and keep it simple.
Cab lights are round on a 7480 I think that’s what @Will Blackburn is getting atPart number UTV341 on Farm Marketplace is a good start for upgrading her