Kit shed- doing the poured walls myself

Highland Mule · Feb 10, 2021

4" panels inside the web but to the outside of the shed, leaving 4" of internal width to add a cavity and a plywood inner skin if you want later. Will look good from the outside and have a strong surface to hang hooks, shelving and the likes to on the inside. Panels also have a huge advantage in being removable and sellable if things don't work out or you want to expand. Poured concrete is both a sunk cost and a liability for expansion.

Of course if you don't add the inner layer, you have a bigger shed - 75 square foot or so.

diyshed · Feb 10, 2021

Half Pipe said:
If you used 4" panels just now, it leaves room for insulation etc later on and alot easier to alter later on if you decide to fit aside door, 2nd building on side etc

I dont mean to sound rude to anyone but I am definetely putting in the poured concrete walls. Shed can never be extended in the location its going in. I will hopefully be only needing the shed for less than 10 years. Im building it on my parents place and wont be living there for ever. Its just a make shift type thing. Im not going investing big money into it.

Im only 19 and funds are limited and I cant justify getting lads in to professionally build walls or buy nice fancy panels. It will be poured concrete walls for now and in 10 years time when im gone, whoever owns it then can knock the walls and do what they wish with it. I am working in a car dealership doing my trade during the week and only want something dry for doing my own work on the weekends and maybe just storing a few cars in.

sandy2210 · Feb 10, 2021

drill holes in the floor as close as you can to the shutter and resin in some divvy rod (a coarse threaded rod
for this very purpose) then a large flat plate and nut which will sit half on the shutter with a block same size as the bottom rail of the shutter to even it up and tighten divvy nut down tight this will hold the shutter down and stop the bottom of the shutter kicking outwards
then when the shutter is in place 2 4x2s same height as the shutter close together either side of the shutter with a long divvy rod through both sides and uprights with large divvy washer and nut against the 2 uprights to hold it together where the divvy goes through what will be concrete you need to put it through a piece of tube the same length as wall thickness this stops you pulling the shutters to close together and also get the divvy rod out
then it will need to be shored up at both sides to stop it leaning over you will never know if you have to many shores but you will defiantly know when you don't have enough!!!
a wall that size will also need reinforcing either mesh or tied rebar held 50mm off the shutter and starter bars drilled and resined to the floor or preferably L bars cast into the floor before it is laid

pokers are readily available from any hire place but beware to much pokering will cause the shutter to move or split to little and it will cause "honeycombing" -concrete to wet or to dry will have the same effect
still want to do a poured wall??????????

bobk · Feb 10, 2021

diyshed said:
I dont mean to sound rude to anyone but I am definetely putting in the poured concrete walls. Shed can never be extended in the location its going in. I will hopefully be only needing the shed for less than 10 years. Im building it on my parents place and wont be living there for ever. Its just a make shift type thing. Im not going investing big money into it.

Im only 19 and funds are limited and I cant justify getting lads in to professionally build walls or buy nice fancy panels. It will be poured concrete walls for now and in 10 years time when im gone, whoever owns it then can knock the walls and do what they wish with it. I am working in a car dealership doing my trade during the week and only want something dry for doing my own work on the weekends and maybe just storing a few cars in.

Have you worked out how many m3 of concrete to do the building ?

diyshed · Feb 10, 2021

bobk said:
Have you worked out how many m3 of concrete to do the building ?

Yes I have but that doesnt bother me too much. I can split up the cost. I can buy a certain amount of cement bags each week to do the bay and break up cost.

diyshed · Feb 10, 2021

sandy2210 said:
drill holes in the floor as close as you can to the shutter and resin in some divvy rod (a coarse threaded rod
for this very purpose) then a large flat plate and nut which will sit half on the shutter with a block same size as the bottom rail of the shutter to even it up and tighten divvy nut down tight this will hold the shutter down and stop the bottom of the shutter kicking outwards
then when the shutter is in place 2 4x2s same height as the shutter close together either side of the shutter with a long divvy rod through both sides and uprights with large divvy washer and nut against the 2 uprights to hold it together where the divvy goes through what will be concrete you need to put it through a piece of tube the same length as wall thickness this stops you pulling the shutters to close together and also get the divvy rod out
then it will need to be shored up at both sides to stop it leaning over you will never know if you have to many shores but you will defiantly know when you don't have enough!!!
a wall that size will also need reinforcing either mesh or tied rebar held 50mm off the shutter and starter bars drilled and resined to the floor or preferably L bars cast into the floor before it is laid

pokers are readily available from any hire place but beware to much pokering will cause the shutter to move or split to little and it will cause "honeycombing" -concrete to wet or to dry will have the same effect
still want to do a poured wall??????????

Thanks so much for this. Yes I will now make sure some L bars go into the foundation when its going in. I know it looks awkward what im going doing but how does one learn otherwise????? Its like taking an engine out of a car. No one knows how to do it first until you set about doing it and learn that way. I just want to learn and at least say I tried doing it. Im the kind of person who would love looking back in 10 or 20 years and being able to say I made those walls myself.

upnortheast · Feb 10, 2021

Don`t under estimate the abilty of concrete to push shutters that are not up to the job

steveR · Feb 10, 2021

designanddetail said:
If you are on a budget why would you want to pour shuttered walls in a workshop building?

The only reason for 200mm of concrete is if is is going to be pushed against!! As for 5ft high, I understand the OP wants this but is does seem OTT.

Having done a couple of low level shuttered walls for use in a cattle yard, I was shocked at the side loads with just 350-400mm height when pouring concrete.... I put rebar into holes drilled into the concrete floors and then thumped the bar in. Then tied a cross bar. It has survived 20 odd years of abuse with being pushed against, but that was what I wanted it for...

To the OP, I appreciate your desire to pour a concrete wall, but it does seem too much for a workshop unless you have a mate supplying aggregate and/or cement at a VERY good price... I would have though a sheeted exterior and a ply inner on a stud type wall would be more suitable? Maybe a low concrete 600mm high wall from ground level up?? Light, cheap and easy to erect and far more flexible in use, especially as you say it is not really a long term build...

steveR · Feb 10, 2021

upnortheast said:
Don`t under estimate the abilty of concrete to push shutters that are not up to the job

Yep, and the OP has a fair old span at 16ft! I'd prefer an insulated or concrete lego type block, and fill the wall with concrete. Look up insulated concrete formwork?

I have seen someone doing this type of product in the UK.... https://faswall.com/ but possibly too much for a workshop.

AJ123 · Feb 10, 2021

How do you get a 47 ft barn with 16 ft bays?
Once you’ve worked that one out ring round the concrete panel firms and ask for a price on the thinnest panel they do and if they’ve any seconds available - you might get a damaged 20 foot you could cut down. You might be surprised once you’ve worked out your material costs. I dont think there will be much in it.
id be more worried about the weightof the concrete forcing the shutters apart than them floating up.
I highly admire your attitude to give it a go though. Good luck.

Suckndiesel · Feb 10, 2021

steveR said:
The only reason for 200mm of concrete is if is is going to be pushed against!! As for 5ft high, I understand the OP wants this but is does seem OTT.

Having done a couple of low level shuttered walls for use in a cattle yard, I was shocked at the side loads with just 350-400mm height when puring concrete.... I put rebar into holes drilled into the concrete floors and then thumped the bar in. Then tied a cross bar. It has survived 20 odd years of abuse with being pushed against, but that was what I wanted it for...

To the OP, I appreciate your desire to pour a concrete wall, but it does seem too much for a workshop unless you have a mate supplying aggregate and/or cement at a VERY good price... I would have though a sheeted exterior and a ply inner on a stud type wall would be more suitable? Maybe a low wall at ground level up?? Light, cheap and easy to erect and far more flexible in use, especially as you say it is not really a long term build...

This^
If it’s only for somewhere dry to work sheeting it fully to the ground would be quicker cheaper and more than likely look neater than a first attempt at shuttering with made up pans

Rowland · Feb 10, 2021

If you have a watch of Sara beenys new life in country. In one of the episodes they pour concrete walls it’s worth a watch just to see what pitfalls you can encounter. Your going to need something pretty robust to stop the concrete pushing the middle of the shutting out in the middle of the bays by the time you have done all that and bought all the other gear you might be better off with panels. The time it takes you to do it all you could be off making money elsewhere too .

Sarah Beeny's New Life in the Country: Sarah Beeny's New Life in the Country - Episode Guide

Property expert Sarah Beeny and her family swap London life for a new start in Somerset

www.channel4.com

steveR · Feb 10, 2021

Highland Mule said:
4" panels inside the web but to the outside of the shed, leaving 4" of internal width to add a cavity and a plywood inner skin if you want later. Will look good from the outside and have a strong surface to hang hooks, shelving and the likes to on the inside. Panels also have a huge advantage in being removable and sellable if things don't work out or you want to expand. Poured concrete is both a sunk cost and a liability for expansion.

Of course if you don't add the inner layer, you have a bigger shed - 75 square foot or so.

Was wondering on the cost... 125 quid for a 15ft 4" panel on eBay, so I guess that can soon be reduced.

bobajob · Feb 10, 2021

diyshed said:
I dont mean to sound rude to anyone but I am definetely putting in the poured concrete walls. Shed can never be extended in the location its going in. I will hopefully be only needing the shed for less than 10 years. Im building it on my parents place and wont be living there for ever. Its just a make shift type thing. Im not going investing big money into it.

Im only 19 and funds are limited and I cant justify getting lads in to professionally build walls or buy nice fancy panels. It will be poured concrete walls for now and in 10 years time when im gone, whoever owns it then can knock the walls and do what they wish with it. I am working in a car dealership doing my trade during the week and only want something dry for doing my own work on the weekends and maybe just storing a few cars in.

You came here for advice, I guess you know it all when you are 19!. But stop and listen.
Look how many experienced chaps on here have said it would be easier, quicker and as cheap and look as good with concrete panels or sheeted to the ground.
Take the panels back out in 10 yrs time.
You have said yourself you don't know what you are doing and you are short of money......

davidroberts30 · Feb 10, 2021

steveR said:
Was wondering on the cost... 125 quid for a 15ft 4" panel on eBay, so I guess that can soon be reduced.

so work that to making shutters and then the time and cost to mix and pour
2.5ton of aggregate say 60 quid
half ton of cement 60 quid
mix and faff about will come to more than a 5er

edit
im guessing at these prices as havent bought any in a while

edit2

with a poured wall you will have holes all through it for the bolts
not with a panel

Pennine Ploughing · Feb 10, 2021

Tin the sides from eves to the floor, and nail some plywood on inside, with insulation in between, cheap as chips, warmer, and quicker,

diyshed · Feb 10, 2021

AJ123 said:
How do you get a 47 ft barn with 16 ft bays?
Once you’ve worked that one out ring round the concrete panel firms and ask for a price on the thinnest panel they do and if they’ve any seconds available - you might get a damaged 20 foot you could cut down. You might be surprised once you’ve worked out your material costs. I dont think there will be much in it.
id be more worried about the weightof the concrete forcing the shutters apart than them floating up.
I highly admire your attitude to give it a go though. Good luck.

Well each bay is 15ft 9 or so and I just rounded it up to the 16ft. I was just going to put in plenty of treaded bars through each side of the shutter and have a big ass square washer on the outsside of the shutters and then bolts at either side of the treaded bar. A length of plastic pipe then in the inside of the shutter which will act like a bush and stay in there permenately with the concrete dried around it.

Ffermer Bach · Feb 10, 2021

sandy2210 said:
drill holes in the floor as close as you can to the shutter and resin in some divvy rod (a coarse threaded rod
for this very purpose) then a large flat plate and nut which will sit half on the shutter with a block same size as the bottom rail of the shutter to even it up and tighten divvy nut down tight this will hold the shutter down and stop the bottom of the shutter kicking outwards
then when the shutter is in place 2 4x2s same height as the shutter close together either side of the shutter with a long divvy rod through both sides and uprights with large divvy washer and nut against the 2 uprights to hold it together where the divvy goes through what will be concrete you need to put it through a piece of tube the same length as wall thickness this stops you pulling the shutters to close together and also get the divvy rod out
then it will need to be shored up at both sides to stop it leaning over you will never know if you have to many shores but you will defiantly know when you don't have enough!!!
a wall that size will also need reinforcing either mesh or tied rebar held 50mm off the shutter and starter bars drilled and resined to the floor or preferably L bars cast into the floor before it is laid

pokers are readily available from any hire place but beware to much pokering will cause the shutter to move or split to little and it will cause "honeycombing" -concrete to wet or to dry will have the same effect
still want to do a poured wall??????????

when they cast my slurry pit walls, they did the foundations first with an upstand (they called it a kicker) to lay the shuttering against (and then had a water bar on top of the kicker).

Fordson1 · Feb 10, 2021

It's great to see a young man with ideas and the energy and go ahead to implement them. It sounds great. Be sure to show us some pictures.
If you could at all, do consider making it a bit higher. If you could manage say 14ft to the eve, maybe 17ft to apex you'd have enough for a loft or office. Better for car lifts too. The height wont add too much to the cost. But you may have reasons not to if close to the dwelling etc. Best of luck.

Nearly · Feb 10, 2021

bobajob said:
You came here for advice, I guess you know it all when you are 19!. But stop and listen.
Look how many experienced chaps on here have said it would be easier, quicker and as cheap and look as good with concrete panels or sheeted to the ground.
Take the panels back out in 10 yrs time.
You have said yourself you don't know what you are doing and you are short of money......

Don't have to buy all the concrete panels at once.
4" panel would clad externally with stone outside the girder when you get permission to make it into a house....you never know.
Pouring an 8" wall is not a cheap, easy or fast option.

If I had access to free concrete I'd still put panels in.

Kit shed- doing the poured walls myself

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