Alternator fault

[Farmer mk1]

Anyone had an alternator in the last 18 months and the unit fail? Our NH has had a genuine alternator on for 500hrs and the bearing behind the pulley has gone and the dealer says it’s out of warranty by 2 month and won’t exchange it. I know it is out of warranty but 500hrs work shouldn’t be anything for the new part as the old one was on 17 year and 13000 hour.
Are the new parts worth the money or is it better to get the old one refurbished and call the new part a bad job?
Thanks
Mark

 

[john432]

Bought a cheapish copy alternator for my JD 6400, within a few months the dam thing sized solid, and in doing so broke the cast alloy mounting bracket. Took the old original Bosch alternator apart. Just needed new brushes. £10 to £15 fix and it's still going.
If the slip rings are still good, then easy enough ,and cheaper to fix the old unit.

 

[startinghandle]

Has fanbelt been too tight??

 

[john432]

Has fanbelt been too tight??

Most have a flat multi ribbed belt, that's got a spring loaded idler pulley for tension. So there is no adjustment.

 

[Netherfield]

Not too difficult to fit a new bearing yourself.

 

[Northeastfarmer]

Very ironic...put a new alternator on the jcb exactly 18 months ago and it failed last week!
Just fitted a new one

 

[Farmer mk1]

Belt is self tensioning, the bearing has gone abs damaged the outer casing it sits in. New alternator time but won’t be buying the same brand or using the genuine one.

 

[startinghandle]

Several years ago I bought alternator for our old Mazda B2500 online a lot cheaper than local factor from alternator specialist but I can't remember name

 

[startinghandle]

It could have been... the starter motor and alternator company

 

[Netherfield]

Ring here and ask, possibly can supply a new end frame and bearing as well as a complete alternator.

Alternators

www.woodauto.com

 

[Vincent]

If there is a manufacturer name and model number on it it should be possible toget the same as genuine cheaper form a good motor factors.

 

[davidroberts30]

Belt is self tensioning, the bearing has gone abs damaged the outer casing it sits in. New alternator time but won’t be buying the same brand or using the genuine one.

ask @ACEngineering for a quote

 

[balerman]

Genuine unit would be a Mahle.

 

[john432]

Just out of interest, has anyone come across replacement alternators that need an actual negative cable attached to a connection. Rather than the negative being through the casing. Cought us out untill we rang the supplier.

 

[steveR]

If there is a manufacturer name and model number on it it should be possible toget the same as genuine cheaper form a good motor factors.

Did that too. Pukka part, 250 odd quid, same part from a Factors, 110 quid!!

 

[ACEngineering]

Belt is self tensioning, the bearing has gone abs damaged the outer casing it sits in. New alternator time but won’t be buying the same brand or using the genuine one.

If you want to send me details of alternator and or tractor model etc i can look at whats available if you want.

 

[Farmer mk1]

Genuine unit would be a Mahle.

This was from the dealer and a friend had one from another dealer and it was same alternator.

 

[box]

You got a dud. Keep hounding them, you should be able to get one at cost price (but you'll be able to get the same OEM MAHLE/Bosch/Iskra unit elsewhere for half that price again). Being genuine, it should've lasted far longer than that, they know it and so do you......to be honest, I'm surprised they weren't more helpful. It's a good chance to take your business elsewhere?

The best thing you could have done 18 months ago is recondition the original one yourself.

So.....this is how I used to explain it customers:

The original one lasts 200,000km
The replacement genuine/OEM one lasts 100,000km
The reconned one lasts 50,000km
The aftermarket one lasts 20,000km
The second hand one lasts 5,000km


New stuff is rubbish, made to a budget using materials inferior to those used back in the day.

If you could buy a new genuine alternator which had been manufactured in 2003, it would last as long as the original one. If you buy a new genuine alternator manufactured in 2020, it'll last as long as every other new thing seems to i.e. just out of warranty.

Reconned units are 50/50, you're still relying on poor quality parts except you've also added human error into the mix.

Aftermarket starters and alternators are generally rubbish (although there are some aftermarket brands which are equal to or better than genuine)

Second hand units are often at the end of their life.

It's the end of the world.



Out of curiosity, what brand is the bearing in the front of that new alternator? (I assume it's the front bearing that went?)

Just out of interest, has anyone come across replacement alternators that need an actual negative cable attached to a connection. Rather than the negative being through the casing. Cought us out untill we rang the supplier.

Yes.

 

[fermerboy]

I had a genuine one for a New Holland TM take a dump after 2yrs, maybe a 1000hrs.

It came from the NH dealer, and yes I know I could have got it cheaper elsewhere, but we were on silage at my father in laws, it dumped, dealer had it on shelf 5miles away and she was going in under 40 mins from making the call.
Think the orginal was a Marelli and the one that did no time was too, but its a Iskra/Mahle this time. Local McCormick dealer who does bits for all brands keeps a few on the shelf that do a lot of different machines.

I usually recon them myself if I can get parts, its not hard and its a fine workshop job to get me put of the house of an evening.