Ford 16 x 16 transmission failed

[Charlie1403]

Hello everyone, I’m seeking advice about my Ford 7840 sle tractor with the 16 x 16 trans. It’s a 93 white roof machine with 10000hrs. Today the transmission just stopped working while spraying, no codes or alarms but the digital display on the rhs of the dash is blank. When you shift the shuttle lever and release the clutch you can feel a slight nudge but it won’t engage. When I last did a clutch pack calibration the numbers ran out past 190, so maybe I’ve got a bung clutch pack. Any knowledge or advice would be much appreciated . Thanks

 

[Nearly]

I'd say the damper plate has failed. Sprung plate where the clutch would be on a conventional gearbox.
Have hydraulic arms etc stopped working?

 

[Charlie1403]

Hydraulics are still good. 3pl will lift and lower plus loader arms too. Also the pto was still turning the sprayer pump. I hope it’s the damper, that would be a (relatively) easy fix. Thanks for the reply.

 

[40 series]

Maybe the switch on the clutch pedal. Mine did something similar. The break pedal switches are the same so it's just a matter of swapping them over

 

[Nearly]

Hydraulics are still good. 3pl will lift and lower plus loader arms too. Also the pto was still turning the sprayer pump. I hope it’s the damper, that would be a (relatively) easy fix. Thanks for the reply.

If it still has hydraulics it's not the damper plate.
Keep looking.

Hmmm. Loader tractor.
Does forward reverse lever feel normal?
Cab floor mat out, remove inspection plate and check cable from lever to gearbox top hasn't snapped.
You can just feel it if you reach under cab from behind the battery box but not a big job to lift floor out.

 

[nelson]

hi check the transmission relay by the fuse we,ve have that one go a couple of times think its orange

 

[ste]

Check the wiring on the f/r shuttle. My SLDP does this occasionally (usually when pushing muck up) and I’ve put it down to a dodgy wire somewhere on the bottom of the f/r lever, as moving back and forwards gets it to work

 

[agrimax]

If it has the button on the f/r lever,try holding it in and letting the clutch out(in gear). Had an 8340 a month ago stopped driving just the same way. Did the above and it drove as long as the button was in. New button fitted and problem solved. Simple push switch for a horn at £2 or £3.(Just took the handle off the lever,undid the old button,fixed in the new one and soldered on the wires).

 

[forblue]

First off be very and i mean very careful when calibrating the packs i nearly had a bad accident many years ago when doing this in a workshop, reason, when numbers get very high it will engage drive lucky for me it only flattened a calor gas fire [not on] but if someone had been between my bench and tractor they would have died, we contacted fords about this, answer was oh yes it will do that, but according to manual if tractor moves during calibration it will show error code and switch off i rectified problem by removing pwm valves,dismantling, cleaning and refitting then re-calibrating ok, your problem can be checked by pressure checking box, if it's front pack it can be done without removing transmission all done from front as well as f/r shuttle synchro not cheap if it's a zf one, thrust washers were another problem but all can be done at same time...........

 

[Charlie1403]

If it still has hydraulics it's not the damper plate.
Keep looking.

Hmmm. Loader tractor.
Does forward reverse lever feel normal?
Cab floor mat out, remove inspection plate and check cable from lever to gearbox top hasn't snapped.
You can just feel it if you reach under cab from behind the battery box but not a big job to lift floor out.

Yes the F/R lever feels normal and is moving the selector on the gearbox as it should.

 

[Charlie1403]

hi check the transmission relay by the fuse we,ve have that one go a couple of times think its orange

Will do, thanks.

 

[Charlie1403]

If it has the button on the f/r lever,try holding it in and letting the clutch out(in gear). Had an 8340 a month ago stopped driving just the same way. Did the above and it drove as long as the button was in. New button fitted and problem solved. Simple push switch for a horn at £2 or £3.(Just took the handle off the lever,undid the old button,fixed in the new one and soldered on the wires).

No button on the lever, it’s a pre quad-mod trans so mechanical linkage.

 

[Charlie1403]

First off be very and i mean very careful when calibrating the packs i nearly had a bad accident many years ago when doing this in a workshop, reason, when numbers get very high it will engage drive lucky for me it only flattened a calor gas fire [not on] but if someone had been between my bench and tractor they would have died, we contacted fords about this, answer was oh yes it will do that, but according to manual if tractor moves during calibration it will show error code and switch off i rectified problem by removing pwm valves,dismantling, cleaning and refitting then re-calibrating ok, your problem can be checked by pressure checking box, if it's front pack it can be done without removing transmission all done from front as well as f/r shuttle synchro not cheap if it's a zf one, thrust washers were another problem but all can be done at same time...........

Thanks, our next step is to pressure check the clutch packs I think. Are the pwm valves inside the side plate on the trans?

 

[Popeye]

Sounds like a problem I had with a 8340 years ago but if I mind right as you lifted the clutch and felt the nudge the hydraulic oil pressure light would give a flicker.That turned out to be a valve inside which dropped down because of worn cir clip. It was accessed behind the battery tray and mechanic managed to fix without major strip down,just a lot off cursing.If you think it could be that I could find out more details of how to access the valve.

 

[forblue]

pwm valves on early model inside the transmission side cover i thought your one was quad mod as they are outside the early one's i never had many problems with but would suggest you get pressure check done first by someone who is familiar with these have you got full lcd dash..........

 

[agrimax]

Did it come to a standstill when you were moving or was it ok until you depressed the clutch and then wouldn't move off again?
Before you go in too far,check whatever wiring plugs etc you come across around the gearbox and the big round one above the battery.Also the fuseable links on the positive battery terminal. Also check the alternator is charging correctly.
It's strange there are no codes being displayed.If it is a pressure problem,the buzzer and trans'pressure warning light should be on.
Another thing worth trying,is,sit in the seat with the engine going,depress the clutch and reach up above the clutch pedal and pull the clutch cable as hard as you can with your fingers. Let the clutch out and see if it moves. I had this problem with an 8240 and it just needed the cable adjusted maybe two turns of the adjusting nut. Baffled for 3 months as I had already set the cable by the book....The pedal operates a valve (and a potentiometer in the cab)in the side plate of the transmission to basically activate everything after every start up.
That big orange relay(or was it red?) in the fuse box packed in on mine too and left me stranded on the road one time as well.........

 

[Charlie1403]

Sounds like a problem I had with a 8340 years ago but if I mind right as you lifted the clutch and felt the nudge the hydraulic oil pressure light would give a flicker.That turned out to be a valve inside which dropped down because of worn cir clip. It was accessed behind the battery tray and mechanic managed to fix without major strip down,just a lot off cursing.If you think it could be that I could find out more details of how to access the valve.

Thanks Popeye this is exactly what it is doing! Looks like that side plate is coming off. Luckily I’m an expert at cursing. If you find more info that would be great.

 

[Charlie1403]

pwm valves on early model inside the transmission side cover i thought your one was quad mod as they are outside the early one's i never had many problems with but would suggest you get pressure check done first by someone who is familiar with these have you got full lcd dash..........

It has an analogue tachometer with the digital gear indicator. Looks like possibly an internal valve problem so pressure check on the cards. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Charlie1403]

Did it come to a standstill when you were moving or was it ok until you depressed the clutch and then wouldn't move off again?
Before you go in too far,check whatever wiring plugs etc you come across around the gearbox and the big round one above the battery.Also the fuseable links on the positive battery terminal. Also check the alternator is charging correctly.
It's strange there are no codes being displayed.If it is a pressure problem,the buzzer and trans'pressure warning light should be on.
Another thing worth trying,is,sit in the seat with the engine going,depress the clutch and reach up above the clutch pedal and pull the clutch cable as hard as you can with your fingers. Let the clutch out and see if it moves. I had this problem with an 8240 and it just needed the cable adjusted maybe two turns of the adjusting nut. Baffled for 3 months as I had already set the cable by the book....The pedal operates a valve (and a potentiometer in the cab)in the side plate of the transmission to basically activate everything after every start up.
That big orange relay(or was it red?) in the fuse box packed in on mine too and left me stranded on the road one time as well.........

We’re checking all the electrical stuff now including the relay. We tried the trick with the clutch cable but no dice unfortunately. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Charlie1403]

We’re checking all the electrical stuff now including the relay. We tried the trick with the clutch cable but no dice unfortunately. Thanks for the tips.

It came to a stop while moving, just like the trans disconnected itself.