IB Flail Mower Blowing Grey Smoke and Tensioner Belt Snapped

[Colt12]

Seeking advice.

Purchased a brand new Iron Baltic Flail mower. I live in the UK. First time out in the field, mowed about 5-10 metres max, but grey smoke blew from the tensioner belt and it seemed the clutch had burned (black carbon flakes found inside the belt guard).

Clutch replaced by a technician and tensioner belts reset. Took the flail back out in the field for its second outing. Cut about a quarter acre of 1-foot tall grass, but grey smoke blew again and the tensioner belt snapped right off, in shreds.

I note that I need to always move the slider switch to the Hare symbol to cut the grass, however I also note that the hammer blades do not rotate / kick into action unless I leave the choke on 'full' for the hammer blades to rotate, even after allowing the machine to warm up. - Does this seem right? I am having to cut the grass with the choke on full at all times.

My impression was that the choke should be turned off once the machine is idling (like a car), but turning the choke to either low or off stops the blades turning when I need them to turn.

This is my first flail mower, which is pulled by an ATV quad bike. The engine of the flail is a petrol 14HP Briggs & Stratton. The manual does not give adequate operating instructions ....

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

 

[milkloss]

Someone will be along with a more comprehensive comment but here’s mine for starters

It sounds as if you’re working it too hard, either forward speed is too high or the task itself is too much for the machine. Then you say it’ll only run with the choke on which makes me doubt the setup of the engine or the engine match between machine and engine output.

Go back to the dealer and suggest they give you a lesson on the machine IN WORK and on your site. I find it hard to believe the technician didn’t come to the field and see it in work after he repaired it.

Otherwise I would return and request your money back, as it is, it is clearly not fit for for your purpose.

 

[Dave W]

Something isn't right. Once the engine has run a few seconds you should turn the choke off and forget about it.
Engine should be run an maximum revs.
I'm inclined to say the machine isn't up to the job and a foot of grass is asking too much unless you're crawling through it.

Some pics of the flails/hammers and belt would help us.

 

[TripleSix]

Seeking advice.

Purchased a brand new Iron Baltic Flail mower. I live in the UK. First time out in the field, mowed about 5-10 metres max, but grey smoke blew from the tensioner belt and it seemed the clutch had burned (black carbon flakes found inside the belt guard).

Clutch replaced by a technician and tensioner belts reset. Took the flail back out in the field for its second outing. Cut about a quarter acre of 1-foot tall grass, but grey smoke blew again and the tensioner belt snapped right off, in shreds.

I note that I need to always move the slider switch to the Hare symbol to cut the grass, however I also note that the hammer blades do not rotate / kick into action unless I leave the choke on 'full' for the hammer blades to rotate, even after allowing the machine to warm up. - Does this seem right? I am having to cut the grass with the choke on full at all times.

My impression was that the choke should be turned off once the machine is idling (like a car), but turning the choke to either low or off stops the blades turning when I need them to turn.

This is my first flail mower, which is pulled by an ATV quad bike. The engine of the flail is a petrol 14HP Briggs & Stratton. The manual does not give adequate operating instructions ....

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Looks like a copy of the machines made by Logic.
The belts were always a weak spot on these, they sometimes benefit from a stronger spring on the tensioner.

I'd suggest with your machine that the engine revs are set incorrectly or there is a fuelling issue.

You need to make sure the engine is running at 3000 rpm when at full throttle.

Where are you in the country?

 

[Colt12]

Someone will be along with a more comprehensive comment but here’s mine for starters

It sounds as if you’re working it too hard, either forward speed is too high or the task itself is too much for the machine. Then you say it’ll only run with the choke on which makes me doubt the setup of the engine or the engine match between machine and engine output.

Go back to the dealer and suggest they give you a lesson on the machine IN WORK and on your site. I find it hard to believe the technician didn’t come to the field and see it in work after he repaired it.

Otherwise I would return and request your money back, as it is it is clearly not for for your purpose.

Looks like a copy of the machines made by Logic.
The belts were always a weak spot on these, they sometimes benefit from a stronger spring on the tensioner.

I'd suggest with your machine that the engine revs are set incorrectly or there is a fuelling issue.

You need to make sure the engine is running at 3000 rpm when at full throttle.

Where are you in the country?

----

Hi,

Many thanks. The dealer is Quad Bike Parts from England who originally sent me a new clutch and asked me to replace the clutch myself. I tried but the tensioner bolt was seized, and then I spoke with Iron Baltic (manufacturer based in Estonia). Iron Baltic paid a local supplier (ATV Services of Hollybush, Ayr, Scotland) to take the flail mower away for repair, and they claimed to replace the clutch. They returned the machine to me with no paperwork, no old part returned and no demonstration whatsoever. I asked them what they did to repair the machine and their astonishing reply was, 'Its not up to us to fix the machine - speak with Iron Baltic'. WOW!!! So, this was at the point where I tested the machine in my field with someone else and after all the grey smoke (again) the belt snapped / shredded. Photos attached. I am in Ayrshire, Scotland. The dealer, online retailer Quadbikeparts.co.uk seems entirely uninterested to help. I have asked for a new replacement or a full refund citing that the machine has proven not to be fit for purpose, but so far they have not responded to my suggestion. I have asked the same to Iron Baltic, but again, it's been two days and a reply from them has not been forthcoming. Lesson learned - never buy such an expensive machine from an online retailer ... Thanks again.

 

[milkloss]

Having bought it online might be your saving grace. Credit card I hope because then you might have some protection.

 

[Colt12]

Something isn't right. Once the engine has run a few seconds you should turn the choke off and forget about it.
Engine should be run an maximum revs.
I'm inclined to say the machine isn't up to the job and a foot of grass is asking too much unless you're crawling through it.

Some pics of the flails/hammers and belt would help us.

---

Hi,
Many thanks. I have posted an image of the belts before snapping and also an image of the rear belt that snapped. The belt at the front is intact. I will try and get an image of the hammers tomorrow. Please see my other comments in response to another forum member. Also, the machine is meant to be pulled between 1 and 6.2 miles per hour, and I operated at 4 mph. The height of the grass being cut was the length of a typical 30cm school ruler (1 foot) but given viewing other videos on YouTube, I didn't think this would be pushing the machine too hard surely (??), considering that these machines eat through brambles and heavy brush etc. Many thanks.

 

[Colt12]

Having bought it online might be your saving grace. Credit card I hope because then you might have some protection.

Hi Milkloss,

Visa Debit. Not sure if this has the same protection as a credit card??

Many thanks.

 

[milkloss]

Hi Milkloss,

Visa Debit. Not sure if this has the same protection as a credit card??

Many thanks.

I think debit cards won’t help protect you, worth a call though. Incidentally I was wrong because business credit cards won’t protect you either I don’t think hence I use personal credit cards for items/traders that could be trouble.

Good luck in your efforts.

 

[Dave W]

---

Hi,
Many thanks. I have posted an image of the belts before snapping and also an image of the rear belt that snapped. The belt at the front is intact. I will try and get an image of the hammers tomorrow. Please see my other comments in response to another forum member. Also, the machine is meant to be pulled between 1 and 6.2 miles per hour, and I operated at 4 mph. The height of the grass being cut was the length of a typical 30cm school ruler (1 foot) but given viewing other videos on YouTube, I didn't think this would be pushing the machine too hard surely (??), considering that these machines eat through brambles and heavy brush etc. Many thanks.

There's 2 belts on it but it's only shredding one, is that correct?

 

[Colt12]

Hi,

Yes, that's right. In the image (before the belt snapped), you can see the outer belt, but behind that belt, there is an inner belt. It is the inner belt that has snapped and shredded. Thanks.

 

[Dave W]

Hi,

Yes, that's right. In the image (before the belt snapped), you can see the outer belt, but behind that belt, there is an inner belt. It is the inner belt that has snapped and shredded. Thanks.

Something not set up right then. Both belts should have equal tension and do the same job ie 50% load on each. So in theory should fail together.
You should always replace both together never put a new one on with an old one.

Also the dust you are seeing is belt dust rather than clutch dust. It's a centrifugal clutch by the looks of it which should be virtually impossible to break.

 

[Colt12]

Hi Dave,

It was carbon-like fragments, and it is highly probable they were already inside the belt cover before I even used the machine. See latest image. Thanks.

 

[TripleSix]

Get it sent back if they're being like that.

Buy or hire a machine locally with good backup.

If all else fails, I'll probably be up near Kilmarnock on may 24th....

 

[ROBINWORKS]

Sounds like clutch is heating up and burning the belts off,

 

[PuG]

Chapman machinery manufacture and build them in Cornwall, very good quality, use to be local to me.

https://chapman.co.uk

https://chapman.co.uk/product/fm150-flail-mower/

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

Machine doesn't read as if it was PDI’d correctly (or at all possibly). On the face of it engine needs to be checked to ensure it’s operating cleanly at full revs (without any choke) the clutch is set correctly and the belt pulleys are smooth, free of any burrs/defects, run true and the belts and any replacements are correct and properly tensioned when under load/in work.

The OP requires full operation/service documents for the machine. Instruction/demonstration on how to set up and operate the machine correctly and safely and should not be expected to do his own warranty repairs, nor replace his own clutch in warranty and should get far better service from the original dealer.

Frankly I’d have it sent back and get a full refund and buy from a local dealer with backup and support that is clearly needed here. He’s on a hiding to nowhere until the next belt or clutch burns out quite honestly.

@Colt12 you’re fully covered under distance selling laws. I’d suggest you exercise your rights for a full and complete refund before you regret your purchase any longer.

 

[davieh3350]

Foot tall grass at 4mph... That's faster than I walk to the pub... You should be going at the speed at which one returns from the pub... Crawling.

 

[davieh3350]

What fuel are you using?

 

[Exfarmer]

Foot tall grass at 4mph... That's faster than I walk to the pub... You should be going at the speed at which one returns from the pub... Crawling.

I think you have hit the nail on the head!
It does seem the belt pulleys are not aligned, other wise it would or should be dragging down the engine.
It seems also the engine is not set up properly so I would ask for money back under distance selling. If no joy go to credit card company