Lowloader/bale trailer build

Dog

Member
Location
Bath
I’m having a 14t trailer built mainly for straw but a couple of times a year will be used for moving an 8t excavator and manitou. Thinking 27ft with a 4 foot extension that can be slotted in at the rear, so don’t really want a beaver tail. Was thinking of having the towing eye on top of the drawbar so it can be dropped off with out the need of a skid and having ramps at the front for loading from the front. Will have a couple of little legs at each side at the front for stability when loading. Going to use a double axle on twin wheels to keep the hight down. Any other things to consider???
 

Welderloon

Member
Trade
Hyd height/angle adjustment/damping on the drawbar
Hyd split fold out front ramps.
Bolt on adjustable flange swivel hitch,
Air brakes
Smallest widest single wheels available on commercial axles
Fixed length - no added extension
Most efficient length to suit bale size
Underfloor cross bearers made from PFC not RHS
Fully certified blast & paint finish.
If you are getting a trailer made, make it right, no scrimping.
 

Welderloon

Member
Trade
PFC = Parallel Flange Channel - basically a 3 sided steel channel with parallel flanges & open to allow painting all around
RHS = Rectangular Hollow Section - basically a 4x sided rectangular section which is enclosed, this can cause internal condensation build up & corrosion due to the internals not being coated
 

Dave4394

New Member
PFC = Parallel Flange Channel - basically a 3 sided steel channel with parallel flanges & open to allow painting all around
RHS = Rectangular Hollow Section - basically a 4x sided rectangular section which is enclosed, this can cause internal condensation build up & corrosion due to the internals not being coated
Thank you 👍
 

Horn&corn

Member
Who’s building it for you?
Decent strap box. Could put air bags on drawbar suspension to let it down further when loading.
I’d put on mini super singles rather than twin wheels. So much better off road.
 

Runs Like a Deere

Member
Mixed Farmer
Tie down points on the bed of the trailer to avoid bending chain over the edge of the bed.

Definitely mini super singles rather than duallies

Flooring material that isn't slippy for loading your digger

where are you going to store your ramps and how will you hook them up onto the front?

Also consider balance point of trailer and how you avoid it moving when loading the plant machinery as you will want the majority of the weight over the axles which you might find means the front will lift?
 

Robert K

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Essex
Personally for moving a digger and a telehandler I would have a proper low loader trailer with hydraulic ramps

We have an HM and we use a fair bit

This is a 15 ton trailer
26ft bed with a cheese wedge for bales etc
5ft drawbar should really be a little bit longer

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Khan

Member
Location
Emerald Isle
Why would you not consider a hydraulic beavertail like Kane or Stewart? You wouldn't have the drawback of poor ground clearance of a conventional low loader. I follow this man on Facebook, no connection but he seems to make good stuff
 

Fendtbro

Member
If having a trailer built I'd spec the following
Heaviest commercial brakes possible (150mm wide shoes?)
Good axles (granning) not chinese
Widest mini super singles, duals just ball up with mud
Axle length specced so tyres run right to edge of trailer
Spring packs set as wide as possible which means a wide wide chassis and far more stability
Air and hydraulic brakes
Long slack hydraulic ramps and beavertail with wedge or possibly hyd bed.
8 bolt scharmuller/walterscheid ring/spoon system
Full shot blast and 2 pack paint or fully galvanised
Tie bars every half meter
2 strap boxes
 

Wesley

Member
If having a trailer built I'd spec the following
Heaviest commercial brakes possible (150mm wide shoes?)
Good axles (granning) not chinese
Widest mini super singles, duals just ball up with mud
Axle length specced so tyres run right to edge of trailer
Spring packs set as wide as possible which means a wide wide chassis and far more stability
Air and hydraulic brakes
Long slack hydraulic ramps and beavertail with wedge or possibly hyd bed.
8 bolt scharmuller/walterscheid ring/spoon system
Full shot blast and 2 pack paint or fully galvanised
Tie bars every half meter
2 strap boxes
Grizzly fabrications does a hydraulic wedge. It’s a really good idea as it’s always there when needed. He turns out some seriously impressive kit. Attention to detail in his trailers is something else!
 

Dog

Member
Location
Bath
Only move the digger a couple of times a year, some times it doesn’t get moved at all. Same with the bale trailer only cart 70ac of straw into shed from fields round the farm, so definitely don’t want 2 trailers or to spend a fortune.
 

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