This is probably a Fella built rake and very well established and been built for generations. Not many people can advise you blind on a forum on how to set something like this up for your tractor, there are just too many variables. If you cannot work it out, and sometimes it just isn’t simple, maybe you could ask someone else that runs one to have a look at your setup. It shouldn’t dig in at the back if only because the tines should be lifted when at the back if I remember correctly.
I will check later, my we have exhausted all other combinations as far as I can see!
Yes, there is a handle to adjust wheels, yet you can't be doing this at the end of each row..
snipe,
There's a couple of pins in the telescopic struts that go to the back of the machine that you take out, when in work.
This is slightly off the ground and as it should be, lifting fairly level. The float is facilitated by the long tubes, front grey and inner part silver in the photo, that telescoped in and out. It is fully extended in the picture. I think there are two of them, the far one being hidden in the picture. There may be a conical washer on the bottom pivot centre of headstock that should be adjusted to stop the rake ‘walking’ in work, which is not much of an issue with single rotor rakes generally.Digs in where ?
Does it look like this ? There's no slotted top link hole so how does it float to follow the contours ? What's the long grey bar from the headstock to the crown wheel area has it got any floating parts that are adjustable
Those pins, fitted to the long telescoping tubes I mentioned above, stop it swinging sideways when a sharp turn is made in transport and are an absolute basic control. While it is possible that this is indeed the issue, I despair if so. Not everyone has a mechanical ‘eye’ of course and most people do not RTFM these days, hence all the issues and inability to get the best out of equipment and prime movers alike.There's a couple of pins in the telescopic struts that go to the back of the machine that you take out, when in work.
When I saw the OP, I wondered if he was using it in transport mode
Surely when in work the rotor should be level in both directions ,tractor linkage right down and held level to the ground by the top link (should be tight).Some tractors the geometry just won’t work to lift clear of the rows when turning.When you have it level adjust the wheel height so it is just clearing the crop.
It’s up to you how you set it up. The original post said it was having a problem with the rake tipping back when lifting. Having all the weight pushing on the top link won’t help to solve the problem. Carrying the front of the rake on the lower arms a little will enable the top link to be shortened. The rake will still follow the contours of the ground to an extent, and run level.
First thing we did when we got our Massey rake last year was to find a shorter top link than the standard rear tractor one. Fairly sure it's a front linkage top link we ended up using in the end.snipe,
This has just crossed my mind, we have only used the top link that the tractor was supplied with, and it works a treat on the 4 rotor Tedder.. I will check its adjusted fully in to start with, then try a shorter one
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