Removing a big pulley from a shaft.

[DrWazzock]

Well I fitted the front Walker blocks and then tried to rotate the rear shaft with the pulley and the pulley broke free of the shaft. Happy days. Well almost. There’s some tightness in the walkers as I rotate them. Wonder if I’ve upset the position of them on the cranks as I noticed the blocks went in slotted holes on the walkers and I took them all off at once to take weight off the front shaft as I renewed end bearings. What can I do. Feel for tight walkers and slacken off block, rotate shaft one turn so the bearing block finds an average comfortable mid position then retighten? Two walkers feel “tight” the rest have nice bit of free play. Haven’t renovated rear shaft at all yet.

 

[David.]

Are there not shims with the old ones that you can use in the new blocks?
If you run them tight, they will heat up and bind, and you will then be able to tell us how much Claas want for a new walker shaft

 

[DrWazzock]

Are there not shims with the old ones that you can use in the new blocks?
If you run them tight, they will heat up and bind, and you will then be able to tell us how much Claas want for a new walker shaft

There are shims with the new blocks. I made the mistake of removing the shims on one block as it seemed slack only for it to bind after another 1/4 turn so I put the shins back in. I dare say the journals on the shaft are oval. So all bearings are at max clearance. I think that’s safest. A new shaft is eye wateringly expensive. The old blocks were packed with dust and maybe oil and binding a bit. An ozzy once told me to either not grease the blocks at all, or if you do grease them, then you need to grease them every day. To be honest I wonder if I’ve achieved anything replacing these blocks but the shaft mounting bearings were certainly well ready for replacing.

 

[DrWazzock]

The JD1085 has rumbled on for years with fairly worn Walker blocks. We didn’t fit new even after we trashed three walkers when the OSR formed a round bale round the straw agitator and it ran another 10 years and counting.

 

[robs1]

Thats why hoses were invented

And best used before heat to wet everything

 

[DrWazzock]

I’ve come to learn that farming is one of those jobs that often kicks you in the bollox for trying and often it’s best to leave it well alone.

 

[robs1]

I’ve come to learn that farming is one of those jobs that often kicks you in the bollox for trying and often it’s best to leave it well alone.

If it's not broke don't fix it is sometimes the best method

 

[DrWazzock]

And best used before heat to wet everything

I once welded a broken Walker shaft back together in situ. I told dad to wind the drum as I welded round the slowly rotating Walker shaft. I told mother to pour a bucket of water in the Walker inspection hatch up above. Unfortunately she misunderstood and poured the whole bucket in just as I was striking an arc. I was drenched but at least it didn’t catch fire. That welded shaft lasted another 5 years.

 

[David.]

As you say, the journals will be a bit oval, you should be able to feel a tad of slop in the blocks anyway, shouldn't worry.
I thought the same when I did mine, and wondered if it was a waste of money.

 

[trebornella]

I know this doesnt really help you, but I had a similar issue with a MF 31 combine. Couldn't shift the large drive pulley on LH side of the main countershaft to change the bearing behind. It turned out that the bearing had spun and knackered the shaft, so spent next half an hour with a pack of new hacksaw blades (no room for the hacksaw frame), cutting through the shaft behind the pulley. Lost some sweat that day, glad im retired now.

 

[thesilentone]

For situations like this, we made a tapered wedge drift.

In the space between the pulley and bearing collar, make it long enough to get a good swing at it with a sledge.

Use in combination with some heat on the centre of the pulley.

 

[davidroberts30]

For situations like this, we made a tapered wedge drift.

In the space between the pulley and bearing collar, make it long enough to get a good swing at it with a sledge.

Use in combination with some heat on the centre of the pulley.

2 wedges work good too
Nice long taper and work them together on top of each other pushes squarer

 

[Gerbert]

If it's not broke don't fix it is sometimes the best method

In the words of a great canadian philosopher: if it's not broke fix it till it is.

 

[fredf]

Phone JMT Engineering in Warwickshire or Manners Combine parts in Northumberland for the price of an s/h pulley and the availability. Then you can brake the pulley off.

Tom

PS I have not read all the thread.

 

[DrWazzock]

Thanks for the advice. As I mentioned, in the end the pulley loosened as I rotated it back and forth against the walkers.
I have fitted a complete new set of Walker wooden blocks and frankly it’s still quite stiff to turn after all the sweat and effort to fit them. It’s maybe slightly better though. It was noticeable that the old blocks seem jam packed with dust/grease. I fitted the new blocks dry though I think they are oil soaked. Is this right? I was told by a visitor from Oz who owns a large combine breakers yard to either leave them dry or if you grease them then you need to fit grease nipples and grease regularly to keep pushing the dust out.

 

[livestock 1]

If you wedge the back of it like you have been then tap the shaft inwards preferably with something over the shaft end to protect it a bit it should walk off You will have to keep tightening the chocks behind the pulley patience is key

 

[Flat 10]

I’d been waiting for @7610 super q to come along on this thread. Seems I’ll be waiting a while

 

[Exfarmer]

Thanks for the advice. As I mentioned, in the end the pulley loosened as I rotated it back and forth against the walkers.
I have fitted a complete new set of Walker wooden blocks and frankly it’s still quite stiff to turn after all the sweat and effort to fit them. It’s maybe slightly better though. It was noticeable that the old blocks seem jam packed with dust/grease. I fitted the new blocks dry though I think they are oil soaked. Is this right? I was told by a visitor from Oz who owns a large combine breakers yard to either leave them dry or if you grease them then you need to fit grease nipples and grease regularly to keep pushing the dust out.

If they are stiff , they need spacing otherwise they will heat. May be worth turning over on the engine for five minutes to check it is not just the newness, but they should be fairly free.
make sure you have not overtightened the bolts but they probably need some card put between them. remember they are first drilled to the diameter of the shaft then sawn in half so there is the thickness of the saw blade to space.
do make sure you have good lock nuts and I prefer to use the locking tabs as well

 

[Flat 10]

I took the ones off my old JD as they were tight, scraped out the crud and put them back on as they weren’t worn. They then ran cooler

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

Many years ago, had a Claas 86, one of the wood bearings got full of crap, bound on the shaft, and with heat etc it snapped next to wood bearing on drive side,
Cleaned all bearing out, and welded the shaft in situ, no more bother after that.
Personally I would like to see a bit of play on them but not a lot, too much play they will bang and fracture the straw walker causing it to self destruct,
We gave them bit of oil once a year after harvest