Sanderson t2 11.40 slow forward

[Shakey Stevens]

Good afternoon and thank you for allowing me to join.

I have a sanderson t2 11.40 which goes lovely backwards, but seems to lack power or grunt hoing forwards. It has a crt 4 2008 transmission. A forward/reverse lever on the steering column mechanically moves a lever on the side of the gearbox, just in front of where the torque converter is in the engine to gearbox bell housing.

Transmission oil level is fine.

Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated,

Kind regards,

Mark.

 

[Sparkplug]

So is it An All " Ford" Skid Unit ?

 

[ACEngineering]

So is it An All " Ford" Skid Unit ?

No it will be a perkins with the odd ball spicer (or was it a clark hurth? i cant remember) 3 speed powershift, shifted mechanically rather than electric.

it will need a transmission overhaul BUT i suspect parts for it will be very hard to come by.

 

[Shakey Stevens]

It's a Ford engine with 4 speed mechanical shift, and mechanical fwd/rev on a shuttle lever. It is a 10-16-31 borg warner velvet shuttle fwd/rev, which I think was used in lots of things jcb 3cx's etc if that helps.

 

[ACEngineering]

It's a Ford engine with 4 speed mechanical shift, and mechanical fwd/rev on a shuttle lever. It is a 10-16-31 borg warner velvet shuttle fwd/rev, which I think was used in lots of things jcb 3cx's etc if that helps.

then its a 1130 not a 1140

Transmission shuttle parts will be easy enough to get then so just overhaul it.

 

[Shakey Stevens]

OK. I haven't had it long and thought it was a 1140. Is the overhaul very difficult.

 

[Shakey Stevens]

then its a 1130 not a 1140

Transmission shuttle parts will be easy enough to get then so just overhaul it.

I found a tally plate under some crap in the cab - you were spot on - its a 11-30. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.

The brakes are crap and lose pressure. They are pump assisted from a hydraulic pump on the engine but I don't know what oil they take - is it at d2?

I appreciate any help,

Many thanks

Mark.

 

[ACEngineering]

I found a tally plate under some crap in the cab - you were spot on - its a 11-30. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.

The brakes are crap and lose pressure. They are pump assisted from a hydraulic pump on the engine but I don't know what oil they take - is it at d2?

I appreciate any help,

Many thanks

Mark.

yes i think it is ATF D2 or 32 hydraulic oil.

brake will be a problem if you need a pedal valve, could also easy have seals in hubs gone and or discs worn out

I actually have a brake disc for it that i want rid of!

Matbro TS350 Brake disc - A & R Handling

Matbro TS350 Brake disc Carraro Axles. Matbro part number 502523 Also fits Sanderson 1130, 1135, 1140 and 1335 Sanderson Part number 503645

aandrhandling.co.uk

 

[Shakey Stevens]

The front right hub is all oily and leaks a bit. I'll take the wheel off and have a look. Will it be obvious if something is leaking internally as I've been told they are wet discs? You don't happen to have a handbrake disc pad do you?

 

[ACEngineering]

The front right hub is all oily and leaks a bit. I'll take the wheel off and have a look. Will it be obvious if something is leaking internally as I've been told they are wet discs? You don't happen to have a handbrake disc pad do you?

external leaks do not mean the brake piston is leaking as thats internal.

no i dont have a handbrake disc, i think they are the same as the smaller sandersons maybe which i dont think are available or VERY expensive, so long as the splines in the middle are good then the cheapest way will be to get the old disc relined.

 

[Muddyroads]

I’ve got a 2002 Fiat Hitachi wheeled digger with similar symptoms. I think superseded the Ford 655. Any suggestions as to how I can be sure that the problem is the torque converter? I’ve been hoping it might just be a blocked filter somewhere.

 

[Shakey Stevens]

external leaks do not mean the brake piston is leaking as thats internal.

no i dont have a handbrake disc, i think they are the same as the smaller sandersons maybe which i dont think are available or VERY expensive, so long as the splines in the middle are good then the cheapest way will be to get the old disc relined.

Thank you for all the help. You were correct, they are available but were expensive. I bought them anyway due to time constraints.

I have resealed the brake master cylinder - Any tips please on how to blead the brakes on this beast please?

Many thanks, Mark.

 

[ACEngineering]

Thank you for all the help. You were correct, they are available but were expensive. I bought them anyway due to time constraints.

I have resealed the brake master cylinder - Any tips please on how to blead the brakes on this beast please?

Many thanks, Mark.

bleed nipples are in the top of the hubs

 

[Shakey Stevens]

bleed nipples are in the top of the hubs

Thank you. One of the hub seals is leaking so i need to remove the hub. One of the 2 big Allen screws is seized - any ideas please. I've tried heat/cold spray, hammer, impact driver 3ft extension! Also do need to remove the 3 small Allen screws in the middle of the hub near the sanderson emblem in the picture many thanks Mark.

 

[ACEngineering]

Thank you. One of the hub seals is leaking so i need to remove the hub. One of the 2 big Allen screws is seized - any ideas please. I've tried heat/cold spray, hammer, impact driver 3ft extension! Also do need to remove the 3 small Allen screws in the middle of the hub near the sanderson emblem in the picture many thanks Mark.

Leave the 3 small ones.

Smack the other 2 round with hammer and chisel then fit new screws. Easier, quicker and cheaper than wasting gas.

 

[Shakey Stevens]

Thank you. I got the screw out by chiselling as you suggested- it was a sod. I drained the hub oil ands it red brake fluid - not good. That will be where my pressure is going!!! Trying to pull the hub now - I assume the 2 blanked holes are for jacking bolts - I have 2 suitable bolts but it seems very tight - I don't need to unfo anything else do I?

Many thanks Mark.

 

[Shakey Stevens]

Thank you. I got the screw out by chiselling as you suggested- it was a sod. I drained the hub oil ands it red brake fluid - not good. That will be where my pressure is going!!! Trying to pull the hub now - I assume the 2 blanked holes are for jacking bolts - I have 2 suitable bolts but it seems very tight - I don't need to unfo anything else do I?

Many thanks Mark.

I found that 2 of the wheel studs have locking shoulders that hold the hub cover (don't know what it's correct name is) firmly in place. The 3 planetary gears have come away with this cover, but i don't know how to remove the rong gear etc to acces the brakes?

I'm now stuck as i am worried about damaging something.

Any advice please, regards Mark.

 

[Shakey Stevens]

This is what I'm looking at now.

 

[ACEngineering]

This is what I'm looking at now.

stick a bar in the disc holes and push the brake piston back in, remove the circlip holding the reaction plate in and take out the brake disc, behind that is a ring of bolts holding the brake carrier gear on, remove bolts, should be 4 x jacking bolt holes to pull the carrier gear off. then you can get at the brake piston and the wheel bearings and main hub seal.

NOTE remove outer wheel bearing races and inspect hub for cracks where the bearing race sits, these hubs like to crack there, and will be hard to find a replacement now.

 

[Shakey Stevens]

Thank you for all the advice. Hub now rebuilt and not leaking, and brakes working nicely.