Starter fert for sugar beet.

[robbie]

I've just about done a deal on a (new to us) beet drill. As expected it comes complete with granular applicator and the previous owner set it up to try placed starter fert at drilling.

Now I'll have a good chat with him and find out as much as I can.
He has said that he done 6 of the 12 rows and he had 6 rows which looked greener but he didnt note where the fert was put so cant be sure that the beet that got the fert were the ones that looked better.

I'm keen to try it as anything that gets the beet up and away and beyond the risk of aphids as quickly as possible has to be good but I haven't got a clue what product to use. I assume something like primary P/DAP but my P Indexes are 4-5 so that seems a waste.

Has anyone tried it or got experience of doing it???what products and rates are recommended, how much does it cost and where would I get it from.

Tia.

 

[Hindsight]

I've just about done a deal on a (new to us) beet drill. As expected it comes complete with granular applicator and the previous owner set it up to try placed starter fert at drilling.

Now I'll have a good chat with him and find out as much as I can.
He has said that he done 6 of the 12 rows and he had 6 rows which looked greener but he didnt note where the fert was put so cant be sure that the beet that got the fert were the ones that looked better.

I'm keen to try it as anything that gets the beet up and away and beyond the risk of aphids as quickly as possible has to be good but I haven't got a clue what product to use. I assume something like primary P/DAP but my P Indexes are 4-5 so that seems a waste.

Has anyone tried it or got experience of doing it???what products and rates are recommended, how much does it cost and where would I get it from.

Tia.

Have a word with Simon Bowen at BBRO as done trials. I presume something with Nitrogen and Phosphate as the two key early establishment nutrients. Think most of the trial work indicates helps early growth which is apparent, but not reflected in final yield as the crop is a long season crop, grows all summer and any very early advantage is swallowed up in the overall growth for the season. But might help suppose with aphid and virus.

PS - by the way you got an echo on!!!

 

[robbie]

I did a google and found the article by Simon which had pretty much the same conclusion as what you've said. My thoughts were N and P as they are the biggies for early establishment and growth. I've slated it in other threads but I do think a MN seed coating could be worth while, early foliar mn sprays seem such a waste when trying to target a small plant 6 inches apart in 20 inch rows. Would placed MN work?? Is it possible???

Ps can admin sort the multiple threads please @Chris F

 

[Hindsight]

I did a google and found the article by Simon which had pretty much the same conclusion as what you've said. My thoughts were N and P as they are the biggies for early establishment and growth. I've slated it in other threads but I do think a MN seed coating could be worth while, early foliar mn sprays seem such a waste when trying to target a small plant 6 inches apart in 20 inch rows. Would placed MN work?? Is it possible???

Ps can admin sort the multiple threads please @Chris F

No idea if Mn seed coat or down the spout helpful. My first thought is no as I read or heard a soil scientist / plant physiologist say it is more effective through the leaf - but my brain is addled these days and I am never sure if I did hear and witness those conversations or my brain has made it up!

I recall Horticulture Development Council did replicated field trials with starter fertiliser on onions. There were positive effects on early plant growth which continued through to yield - but onion plants are smaller and potentially more stressed than beet plants - and are semi determinant in that bulbing starts when at certain number leaves expanded associated with daylength, so getting plants away that bit more important.

Sorry drifted off there. Old age. Better do something useful - make family a cup of tea!

Anyways keep us informed. Cheers

 

[robbie]

As far as my FACTS course went the consensus was that MN needs to be foliar applied but you can get fert coated with wolftrax MN which would need to be absorbed by the roots,also a fert guru told me that Mn can be taken up by the roots because that's how all plants take up nutrients but it had to be very close to the root zone like P.

 

[teslacoils]

Last time I looked you could get a np and boron starter granule. Might be handy. Was Yara iirc .

 

[Hindsight]

As far as my FACTS course went the consensus was that MN needs to be foliar applied but you can get fert coated with wolftrax MN which would need to be absorbed by the roots,also a fert guru told me that Mn can be taken up by the roots because that's how all plants take up nutrients but it had to be very close to the root zone like P.

Yes, which is why Mn is foliar applied. Because plants are inefficient at taking up Mn through roots. Also the availability of Mn depends on hydroxy status of the oxide. And thus Mn is less available in dry soil, so I gather. As say keep us informed what you do and the advice received - always a learning day on here.

 

[Will 1594]

When you starting @robbie Going to do some next week

 

[deleted user 837354]

You can get blends made up based on DAP that contain micronutrients as well. At indices of 4-5 I bet the guidance is 0 need for starter fertiliser though.