Tine/cultivator drill

[snipe]

not had any experience of these types of drill, looking mainly KV or weaving. Will they drill when nothing else will? we have some medium clay land that is very sticky, all ploughed and lightly worked when it was dry. Our combi drill will just turn it to pudding, the horsch pronto has made a good job on the lighter land but tried a bit on the heavier land last week but really needed pulling up a little first and leaving to dry. Just wanting to know how people have gone on with tine drills. Do you get much seed left showing, can you control the sowing depth. In a normal season(hopefully dryer) do they do a good job, would there be any point in owning one?

 

[David.]

If you are looking at a kv TS, the old model, go if at all possible for a hydraulic fan one.
The PTO drive belts and guard are right on top of the middle set of depth wheels, so whilst it might look like they will easily drill 3 or 4" deep, this is in practice a very limiting factor. Otherwise I'd say it is a very good lightweight drill, easily handling 4m with 100hp.
They will put seed in the ground wherever you can travel ime.

 

[Clive]

not had any experience of these types of drill, looking mainly KV or weaving. Will they drill when nothing else will? we have some medium clay land that is very sticky, all ploughed and lightly worked when it was dry. Our combi drill will just turn it to pudding, the horsch pronto has made a good job on the lighter land but tried a bit on the heavier land last week but really needed pulling up a little first and leaving to dry. Just wanting to know how people have gone on with tine drills. Do you get much seed left showing, can you control the sowing depth. In a normal season(hopefully dryer) do they do a good job, would there be any point in owning one?

if a KV tine seeder (especially a front hopper one) on a dualed up light tractor won't drill then nothing will do

 

[Martin Holden]

Clive a slight off post question; with modern GPS is it possible to drill all tramline bouts first then “fill in” the non tramline bouts afterwards? Not sure what the benefit would/could be but it just dawned on me that surely this can be done, no?

 

[Matt77]

Clive a slight off post question; with modern GPS is it possible to drill all tramline bouts first then “fill in” the non tramline bouts afterwards? Not sure what the benefit would/could be but it just dawned on me that surely this can be done, no?

Before I stopped putting in tramlines I did exactly that, leave the box on tramlines, put into my gps the swaths that where 24m tramlines and then drill them, depending on how big the field was would depend on if I did all tramlines first or just some and fill in, then go back to them, it’s so much easier, and on RTK never a problem, I don’t bother with tramlines now, got steering on the sprayer, best just to leave it to that now.

 

[Martin Holden]

Before I stopped putting in tramlines I did exactly that, leave the box on tramlines, put into my gps the swaths that where 24m tramlines and then drill them, depending on how big the field was would depend on if I did all tramlines first or just some and fill in, then go back to them, it’s so much easier, and on RTK never a problem, I don’t bother with tramlines now, got steering on the sprayer, best just to leave it to that now.

Interesting. I wonder how many drill like this? You could almost do away with auto shut off and just shut off manually I guess?

 

[Matt77]

Interesting. I wonder how many drill like this? You could almost do away with auto shut off and just shut off manually I guess?

Well I started doing it because I wasn’t using the markers or drilling up and down the last run, so the box wasn’t counting when to put a tramline in, the technology is there in the steering system so I used it.

 

[snipe]

Clive a slight off post question; with modern GPS is it possible to drill all tramline bouts first then “fill in” the non tramline bouts afterwards? Not sure what the benefit would/could be but it just dawned on me that surely this can be done, no?

If it’s an off post question why not start a fresh post??

 

[Lewis821]

We have a kuhn tine drill, it will put seed out of the bag and into the field, depth is variable to say the least but its come back out of the nettles this year, first one in 4, and put around 150 acres in where the vaderstad was not an option and neither was the combination. In a ‘normal’ year the vaderstad would do all the sowing.

 

[Martin Holden]

If it’s an off post question why not start a fresh post??

Didn’t think it deserved its own section.

 

[gorgous]

Try to get a electric drive version we have lots of problems with the wheel stopping and hence no seed going on in less than ideal conditions with our kv ts evo. I would look at a kuhn megant.

 

[snipe]

Is that because of the wet field conditions or just in general use.

 

[Will 1594]

Clive a slight off post question; with modern GPS is it possible to drill all tramline bouts first then “fill in” the non tramline bouts afterwards? Not sure what the benefit would/could be but it just dawned on me that surely this can be done, no?

Aye do like a quad track hero near here , top downing with 7 m machine , got most of way across.every other run 70 acre and broke down and then it rained , half a field worked , looked a Bonny balls up

 

[Jim Jackson]

I've got the use of a 2013 KRM Solar drill if it ever dries enough. Has anyone any tips to settings etc?. Jim

 

[gorgous]

Is that because of the wet field conditions or just in general use.

Wet conditions the wheel scraper isnt upto much you have to apply a lot of down pressure with the trator linkage to get it to turn it ends up scraping of the coulter to the side the scraper arm the farme at front also as the mud increases the diameter of the wheel it messes up your seed rate.
When its dry it goes round fine. But then it will break the springs, the bolts that hold the springs to the tine, the tines themselves the ubolts that attach the coulter assemblies to frame. Ours is a 2010 model the new ones maybe better. We stopped using it in the dry as too expensive to run and kept it for autumns like this were its been a godsend apart from the patches which wont have any seed due to wheel stoppage and the usual blockages.
The mud wraps around coulter bottom and plugs the outlets. Also with the pipe head inside the hopper the pipes do sag over time and are prone to blocking between the head and the where they exit the frame. Other problem is the design of hopper to one side. Seed dressed with australplus or damp conditions wont flow to the metering flap you end up slamming brakes on when turning to level seed this problem is especially worse on our banks. I agree with the pto shaft comments above also.

 

[Martin Holden]

Aye do like a quad track hero near here , top downing with 7 m machine , got most of way across.every other run 70 acre and broke down and then it rained , half a field worked , looked a Bonny balls up

I can see that’s a risk to be fair. Same for drilling. What would happen if you did all the tramlines and then couldn’t get the main work done! That would look worse that block coulter syndrome.

 

[strawturner]

Aye do like a quad track hero near here , top downing with 7 m machine , got most of way across.every other run 70 acre and broke down and then it rained , half a field worked , looked a Bonny balls up

Ah I always think it looks rubbish doing this too for this exact reason. I tend to go in this sequence 0-2-4-1-3-5-7-9-6-10 etc... As for drilling tramlines first, I've seen that done too but also not keen, tend to do bouts with my drill as it works well that way and put the tramlines in manually, easy when sprayed pre drilling, not so good when tired and I'm in a big field working out my, 4 or 6 or 8 times tables deepening on drill and sprayer setup!