shearing hand piece knowledge for dummies

spin cycle · Jun 4, 2020

SO....my shearer reckons the hand piece on my horner 12v machine is playing up......was getting hot....but then she reckoned it couldn't get through the wool :scratchhead:

do i buy recon type?....send mine away to be looked at?.....buy new?......don't really want to spend £300

.......if i buy s/h it could be pile of proverbial

oil bath new is cheapest but triple bearing seem more common....whats the difference :scratchhead:

tepapa · Jun 4, 2020

Where was it getting hot?
1) tension knob getting hot? Does it need grease inside the cup. (Not on threads)
2) was the comb and cutter sharp? Blunt gear will heat up handpiece if you screw down tension to get it to cut.
3)Back end getting hot is it an oil bath that needs oil or bearing worn out? Any wool wrapped in behind the cogs or between the barrel and the back joint?

spin cycle · Jun 4, 2020

tepapa said:
Where was it getting hot?
1) tension knob getting hot? Does it need grease inside the cup. (Not on threads)
2) was the comb and cutter sharp? Blunt gear will heat up handpiece if you screw down tension to get it to cut.
3)Back end getting hot is it an oil bath that needs oil or bearing worn out? Any wool wrapped in behind the cogs or between the barrel and the back joint?

1/ don't think so
2/ should be good....shearer would know if blunt
3/ when you say oil bath...is it full of oil?...or just oiled......no wool wrapped......bearing on cogs seem tight...no movement......mechanism has a pin that engages on a ball that works on yoke

tepapa · Jun 4, 2020

We'll start again.
Where was it getting hot?

tepapa · Jun 4, 2020

Why are you providing handpiece to the shearer? Using your stuff but their skill and back?

Who provided combs and cutters? You or them?. Who sharpened them?

tepapa · Jun 4, 2020

Very unlikely for handpiece to break unless it's been thrown about. They do wear out eventually but mainly affects the cut.

You will get problems if not oiled or greased or if wool wraps around something inside or around the cogs.

Usual and most common problem will be blunt gear.

spin cycle · Jun 4, 2020

spin cycle · Jun 4, 2020

tepapa said:
Why are you providing handpiece to the shearer? Using your stuff but their skill and back?

Who provided combs and cutters? You or them?. Who sharpened them?

yes and combs/cutters brand new

....not cutting well is the problem.....presume this is an oil bath type :scratchhead:

Nithsdale · Jun 4, 2020

spin cycle said:
View attachment 884285 View attachment 884286 View attachment 884286 View attachment 884287 View attachment 884288

I hope you didn't adjust the Fulcrum Post ripping it to bits

Everything looks fine there. Do you put oil in the bath much? (just seen your last post - the crew on the side, fill it full of oil!)

Brand new comb and cutter asin straight out of the packet? They need ran over a grinder first IMO. Match the scallop and ensure a proper sharper - I've seen brand new blunt as before

Cvx1170 · Jun 4, 2020

Dont do what you just did, they are very difficult to reset

spin cycle · Jun 4, 2020

how would i know if i've ripped fulcrum to bits....that seems pretty loose TBH :scratchhead:

.....the ball in the yoke feels slackish :scratchhead:

tepapa · Jun 4, 2020

Probably gear not sharp if they're new combs and cutters especially if there full thickness.

spin cycle · Jun 4, 2020

Cvx1170 said:
Dont do what you just did, they are very difficult to reset

i realise that now

....i'm thinking about sending it back to horner....i'm just wondering if it's worth it or buy another :scratchhead:

Nithsdale · Jun 4, 2020

spin cycle said:
how would i know if i've ripped fulcrum to bits....that seems pretty loose TBH .....the ball in the yoke feels slackish

The Fulcrum Post is the post that the fork sits on. (its the threaded bar with ball on top inside the handpiece which screws in from the nut underneath).

If you've altered/removed that, the handpiece needs reset when put back together

tepapa · Jun 4, 2020

spin cycle said:
how would i know if i've ripped fulcrum to bits....that seems pretty loose TBH .....the ball in the yoke feels slackish

If you turn handpiece over there is a nut below the tension knob bit.

DO NOT TURN THAT SCREW IN ANY WAY LEAVE WELL ALONE!!!!!

Nithsdale · Jun 4, 2020

spin cycle said:
i realise that now....i'm thinking about sending it back to horner....i'm just wondering if it's worth it or buy another

How long have you had it? How much work do you do with it?

Nothing wrong with those old handpieces. I use the one dad bought 51 years ago for all my shearing... I'd love a new handpiece but can't justify it when the old one works so well

tepapa · Jun 4, 2020

Nithsdale Farmer said:
The Fulcrum Post is the post that the fork sits on. (its the threaded bar with ball on top inside the handpiece which screws in from the nut underneath).

If you've altered/removed that, the handpiece needs reset when put back together

It'll go back together in two minutes if you know what your doing. ?
But if you don't you'll be fecking around for ages???.

spin cycle · Jun 4, 2020

tepapa said:
If you turn handpiece over there is a nut below the tension knob bit.

DO NOT TURN THAT SCREW IN ANY WAY LEAVE WELL ALONE!!!!!

oops ?

.....actually i've undone the nut but not touched the screw :scratchhead:

Nithsdale · Jun 4, 2020

spin cycle · Jun 4, 2020

Nithsdale Farmer said:
How long have you had it? How much work do you do with it?

Nothing wrong with those old handpieces. I use the one dad bought 51 years ago for all my shearing... I'd love a new handpiece but can't justify it when the old one works so well

bought whole outfit s/h in winter......done about 80

shearing hand piece knowledge for dummies

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