I asked the same question a few years ago, was told it’d need ripped out and redone as opposed to concrete if over.
Awesome. Thanks. Did you mesh within the 2”?No, but not far from me so could maybe get a couple of pictures at the weekend.
If the sub base under the existing is sound will be less of an issue. the problem if new pour is too thin a section and there is a bit of give in the original sub base then it will crack or delaminate from the original concrete.It’s over an existing slab of concrete so sub base can’t get much harder than that. It’s more to get a better finish and don’t want to grind down as a few bits of rebar now exposed
No. Just concrete, straight out the jaegers and hit with a magic screed after shovelling level.Awesome. Thanks. Did you mesh within the 2”?
Depends why the concrete failed, if its acid erosion or it cracked and now settled it would be fine, if there are voids under the concrete or soft spots then these need dealt with.I asked the same question a few years ago, was told it’d need ripped out and redone as opposed to concrete if over.
No. Just concrete, straight out the jaegers and hit with a magic screed after shovelling level.
Current slab has been down 25 years. There’s a bit of a extension going on the back so thinking rebars drilled into existing slab, tied onto 10mm mesh and then pour 8” to finish level with the 2” cover on old slabDepends why the concrete failed, if its acid erosion or it cracked and now settled it would be fine, if there are voids under the concrete or soft spots then these need dealt with.
i would estimate opc 70/80 newton stuff I bet it’s blue if you try peck itWe did half the yard infront of intake pit 6 years ago, I really don't know what concrete they used, but it was dug out on Friday night after 6 pm, levelled, sub base vibration rolled in, screeds set up by 1am, concrete poured at 6.30 Saturday morning, tempted down and left to dry,
Monday morning at 6am 44 tonne lorries were turning and screwing around to get on the in take pit, it gets around 16/18 lorries a day tipping ,
Not a sign of a crack or scuffled top surface,
What concrete would that be ?
Edit, there was steel mesh and fibre in it
Not with current access as the only proper access is to one side so would mean which ever way I split it I’d have to drive on it at some point, and I’d rather pull the plaster off quick and do it in one slab / pour if possible.You couldn't do half the yard then the other half later?
Call a local conc company explain what you want to doNot with current access as the only proper access is to one side so would mean which ever way I split it I’d have to drive on it at some point, and I’d rather pull the plaster off quick and do it in one slab / pour if possible.
I would be very tempted to put a cut in at that joint, the 8 inch slab is going to shrink a lot more than the 2 inch slab. A joint is much better than a crack.Current slab has been down 25 years. There’s a bit of a extension going on the back so thinking rebars drilled into existing slab, tied onto 10mm mesh and then pour 8” to finish level with the 2” cover on old slab
Have a huge slab to do outside 225 mm thick with 2 layers 8mm mesh what do you think of using mesh with flying endsThe other problem with 2” Concrete and mesh, what are you putting your mesh on?
As far as I know the smallest spacer I can get is 35mm, then you use say A193 mesh which is 7mm bars so top of mesh is now at 42mm, except on the corners where the mesh meets which is nearly double that height.
Having this little cover to the top of the mesh is nearly worse than not using mesh I’d say