Clipex Fencing

[Douglasmn]

It was a joke: making a rod for your own back. I.E. It may be easy putting the fence up but keeping it clear of brambles and hedge growth might be more hassle than it's worth. I am inclined to put a fence up as close to a hedge as poss so you can cut close to the fence. I feel it looks smarter rather than a rubbishy gap between but obviously we are not talking electric.

Are you using it as temporary electric for the cattle?

Don't you find then that the fence gets grown into the hedge? That's certainly the case here. Also trying to stop the fences harbouring weeds so much, hence wanting to keep the hedge cut well back from the fence and top under the bottom wire. Permanent fencing. For temporary I just use the little blue plastic posts and one strand of poly wire.

 

[Douglasmn]

For me this is a good example of a conventional (clipex or other) fence being nothing but a guide for weeds and an eyesore. The weeds quickly pull it down and make maintenance very difficult. Also encourages weeds in the fields.

 

[milkloss]

For me this is a good example of a conventional (clipex or other) fence being nothing but a guide for weeds and an eyesore. The weeds quickly pull it down and make maintenance very difficult. Also encourages weeds in the fields.

When we fence, usually chestnut posts, we fence tight to the hedge so the weeds aren't a problem. If you leave a gap it has to be a hedge cutter width away to get the brambles and even then they will climb up from under the wire where you can't cut. When it's tight you may get a few nettles but 'spot' spraying is possible under the rules for this. Brambles will go through but if you have the roller down on the hedger you can cut tight along the wire vertically. I can see the trouble you are having though and where a hedge had been coppiced then you will have a problem until the hedge regrows and suppresses the extra bramble growth.

 

[Douglasmn]

When we fence, usually chestnut posts, we fence tight to the hedge so the weeds aren't a problem. If you leave a gap it has to be a hedge cutter width away to get the brambles and even then they will climb up from under the wire where you can't cut. When it's tight you may get a few nettles but 'spot' spraying is possible under the rules for this. Brambles will go through but if you have the roller down on the hedger you can cut tight along the wire vertically. I can see the trouble you are having though and where a hedge had been coppiced then you will have a problem until the hedge regrows and suppresses the extra bramble growth.

Also fence maintenance very difficult when so tight to the hedge. Do you not find the fence just becomes part of the hedge eventually as well? So many cases of that here, and it doesn't look pretty!

 

[milkloss]

All I know is that the old man put fences up in the 50's and some are still there blocking gaps in the hedges. They wouldn't be standing or blocking holes if they were well outside the hedge. The hedge has grown well over and in them and to be fair you would be hard pushed to see the fence. Modern methods are obviously different, less labour etc, and I would say that is why we are on a clip ex thread! I guess it depends on your environment on which way you do it but here I always like to see a fence tight to the hedge.

 

[McVeigh Parker]

That's an 11 wire net I think. What name is that sold under?

Hi, Most likely our Forge Knot fence FHT11-122-15 sold in 100m rolls has an xknot not hinge joint on the fence

 

[S J H]

When we fence, usually chestnut posts, we fence tight to the hedge so the weeds aren't a problem. If you leave a gap it has to be a hedge cutter width away to get the brambles and even then they will climb up from under the wire where you can't cut. When it's tight you may get a few nettles but 'spot' spraying is possible under the rules for this. Brambles will go through but if you have the roller down on the hedger you can cut tight along the wire vertically. I can see the trouble you are having though and where a hedge had been coppiced then you will have a problem until the hedge regrows and suppresses the extra bramble growth.

That's what I like to do, push it in as tight as possible, then the boss hasn't lost any ground, when the posts rot off, the wire is all in the hedge, and will be there for years.

 

[milkloss]

That's what I like to do, push it in as tight as possible, then the boss hasn't lost any ground, when the posts rot off, the wire is all in the hedge, and will be there for years.

You might even find that if the ground has a hump in it where the hedge is then the posts won't rot as fast.

 

[Y Fan Wen]

You might even find that if the ground has a hump in it where the hedge is then the posts won't rot as fast.

Is that relevant on a Clipex thread?!

 

[milkloss]

Is that relevant on a Clipex thread?!

I would say so: we've got creosoted chestnuts posts probably 40 years old or more still holding up some rusty net in places. Will clipex perform as well?

 

[McVeigh Parker]

I would say so: we've got creosoted chestnuts posts probably 40 years old or more still holding up some rusty net in places. Will clipex perform as well?

Chestnut is obviously a long lasting timber and then creosoted with the "old" product will have given the post a great deal of protection, the same with the old Tanalith treatment before the CCA was removed. However clipex was introduced because of the current life span of timber. With high tensile steel and the galvanised coating then you are looking at a life span in excess of 30 years which you can really only compare against current timber life.

 

[Smudge]

creosoted with the "old" product

Do tell us what's changed.

 

[McVeigh Parker]

Do tell us what's changed.

In 1994 the European Commission took action to control the specification of creosote in non professional products so restricted the use of one of the chemicals so there is now less benzo-alpha-pyrene than what was produced as the "old" creosote and now is commonly known as coal tar creosote. We are always getting asked if it's as good as the old stuff lol!

 

[Smudge]

Sounds like a politician's answer. What's different in creosote used for commercial purposes? Like what BBH use on telegraph poles.

 

[milkloss]

Sounds like a politician's answer. What's different in creosote used for commercial purposes? Like what BBH use on telegraph poles.

I believe that was called cobra. Not used now as it was pretty wicked stuff, highly effective though obviously!

But good point: @McVeigh Parker & Co Ltd you talk of non professional products but TFFr's are all proffesionals so what's the score here? Do you not supply professional products?

 

[McVeigh Parker]

Ha yes but didn't want to give you incorrect info. I more commony deal with tanalised treatment timber so know more indepth about that. The risk to the amateur user was originally thought to be increased risk of cancer if it wasn't used properly so it was restricted for sale but then this was loosened again. Professional users like BBH would obviously have licences to use a different chemical type creosote to the coal tar sold in plastic tubs and they heat up the creo before application.

 

[McVeigh Parker]

I believe that was called cobra. Not used now as it was pretty wicked stuff, highly effective though obviously!

But good point: @McVeigh Parker & Co Ltd you talk of non professional products but TFFr's are all proffesionals so what's the score here? Do you not supply professional products?

Yes but was just making the difference between the creo that BBH, Calders etc would use and the coal tar product that Mr Smith would buy to do his back garden fence or Farmer Giles to do a small amount of fence posts which obviously the general person couldn't buy the stuff that BBH use so I was just referring to that as professional.

 

[Smudge]

That's the key point, when you buy creosote fence posts like f n f, they are treated with proper creosote. After all it's a by-product that is what it is so to speak.

 

[joe soapy]

Old fashioned cresote would burn, could watch it soak into timber in a very satifactory way,
also the smell was quite pleasant and a good preservetive for metal The new commercial stuff smells awfull and dont go into the wood in the same way

 

[Smudge]

In that case you're buying the wrong stuff