Flail for the Fergi

H200GT

Member
Location
NORTH WALES
Now the P3 is getting close to being useable again I need to get a flail for it to keep the grass down around the house. I know ill need an overrun clutch but other than that for light grass I am hoping the P3 will handle a 1.45-1.6m machine

Been keeping an eye out on ebay and the likes for a decent second hand one but nothing fairly local has turned up yet. There are a few cheap looking new ones of various brands that all look like they come from the same factory, but are they any good? This being one example https://www.becksidemachinery.co.uk/product-page/fl160h-flail-mower-for-sale-uk-flail-mowers-for-compact-tractors

I didn’t really want to spend on a new decent branded one as they will be at least twice the price of the above example but I am starting to think it will be the only route. Buy cheap, buy twice as they say.

So has anyone any recommendations of what to get? or do any members have one tucked away that they would like to part with?
 

solo

Member
Location
worcestershire
I use a Dragone Mtl flail mower on mf135 for field headlands,drive sides etc. It is an ideal match. Hydraulics for the side shift would be a nice addition but otherwise fine for what I need. Must of had it for about 7 years now. Just welded up first skid this winter and will need new flails this coming winter.
 

H200GT

Member
Location
NORTH WALES
I use a Dragone Mtl flail mower on mf135 for field headlands,drive sides etc. It is an ideal match. Hydraulics for the side shift would be a nice addition but otherwise fine for what I need. Must of had it for about 7 years now. Just welded up first skid this winter and will need new flails this coming winter.
what size is it? 1.6m would be ideal as it would cover the wheelbase, but whistI think it would be fine on a 135, I am worried it will be too much for a 20
 

solo

Member
Location
worcestershire
It is a 1.4m model. It does use all the power in thick vegetation, so a 1.6 m would be quite slow as well as heavier. Kilworth Machinery was the dealer.
 

H200GT

Member
Location
NORTH WALES
It is a 1.4m model. It does use all the power in thick vegetation, so a 1.6 m would be quite slow as well as heavier. Kilworth Machinery was the dealer.
You confirm my thoughts in that a 1.6m machine may be too much for my 20. I don't plan on cutting heavy grass provided I keep on top of it, but i don't want to abuse it ether, so will stick to a 1.4m unit.

As it stands I now plan to order a Polish made one, my brother is a dealer for their equipment, Remet. Hopefully it will come with his next order due end of April / early May. I’ll have to borrow the farms larger kit to keep on top of it in the meantime.
 

TrickyT

Member
There is an art to using a flail mower with a Fergie. You have mentioned that you need an overrun clutch, which I believe is essential.

But have you taken into account that you don't have 'live drive' on a Fergie?

A fail mower needs quite a bit of power to get going, so you will need to get it up to speed and then try to engage a forward gear, to get going. Every time you put your foot on the clutch, you will loose power to the PTO.

Have you used a Fergie with just a topper to understand the experience of not having 'live drive'

Trevor
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
I've not used a flail , hadn't realised it would have the fly wheel effect
I can certainly understand ur point using my chipper, big fly wheel.on my mf 65 that has 2 stage clutch.
 

H200GT

Member
Location
NORTH WALES
There is an art to using a flail mower with a Fergie. You have mentioned that you need an overrun clutch, which I believe is essential.

But have you taken into account that you don't have 'live drive' on a Fergie?

A fail mower needs quite a bit of power to get going, so you will need to get it up to speed and then try to engage a forward gear, to get going. Every time you put your foot on the clutch, you will loose power to the PTO.

Have you used a Fergie with just a topper to understand the experience of not having 'live drive'

Trevor
Been driving both types since i was old enough to reach the pedals, but only really live drive 35’s or 135’s on any serious pto work. This fergi was almost exclusively used on the transport box or for chain harrowing from memory, probably for good reason.

It had crossed my mind, but I am hoping the overrun clutch will massage over some of the obvious pitfalls of non live drive, that and a careful operator. My plan was to try and attempt to get the timing right so that I could lift the flail off the ground before a change in direction allowing the flail to turn freely and not to loose to much speed during gear changes. Also try and limit any changes in gear / stopping to a minimum.

I am about to find out anyway, I have to keep the grass down somehow and using one of the classic tractors from the farm is the plan. This one just happend to be at my property being stored in hope i would one day turn my attention to it. It needed fixing so it was a good excuse to get on with it, if it doesn’t work ill have to swap / borrow the 35 or 135 in stead And start another project thread 🙈
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
I bought a pto with shear bolt and over run built in for my chipper, think the bolt is 6 mm has never gone yet , almost worryingly.
Did vanish once randomly, presumably come loose and fell out , just wasn't there wen we returned after brew or whatever 🤔
 
I assume you know the pto must be turning for the hydraulics to work
Is it possible to get pto shaft to fit onto smaller fergy shaft?
As I said I just can't see how it's going to work
 

TrickyT

Member
You also have to consider the speed limitations.

You only really have 3 usable gears (1, 2 and 3) so you will have to match the required 540 pto speed to the forward motion. Having no high/low range like a 35/135 will limit the ability to match the speed.

Is it a hammer or Y flail, as the hammer types need more HP to power them.

It can be done, especially if you are just just keeping the grass in check on straight runs without having to back up into corners etc.

Trevor
 

H200GT

Member
Location
NORTH WALES
Fair piont , u can get a adapter sleeve or i think new shaft
One sleeve is a sleeve, collar other one will lengthen the tractor end .
Have both adaptor types in the toolbox, however you can get a complete new shaft now like you say to adapt the tractor to standard 6 spline pto which is the route ill most likely take.

 
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H200GT

Member
Location
NORTH WALES
You also have to consider the speed limitations.

You only really have 3 usable gears (1, 2 and 3) so you will have to match the required 540 pto speed to the forward motion. Having no high/low range like a 35/135 will limit the ability to match the speed.

Is it a hammer or Y flail, as the hammer types need more HP to power them.

It can be done, especially if you are just just keeping the grass in check on straight runs without having to back up into corners etc.

Trevor
Plan is to go Y flails to keep power requirement down, should also give a better as well finish I hope.
 

H200GT

Member
Location
NORTH WALES
I assume you know the pto must be turning for the hydraulics to work
Is it possible to get pto shaft to fit onto smaller fergy shaft?
As I said I just can't see how it's going to work
Yes, its less than ideal being non live drive I admit, but I have only an acre to do, that said its not the easiest shape or flattest land. If it doesn’t work I’ll have have to see about swapping it for one of the live drive tractors. its been a good excuse to get the Fergi back up an running in any case.
 

Dave W

Member
Location
chesterfield
Beat me to it!!!
Flail mower and no live drive are not a
Good combination ,in fact I would say it can't be done
Of course it can be done. Not ideal but with a bit of care it's no problem.
I've had a couple of the little Japanese compacts with no live drive. The overrun is essential as I found out to very nearly a disaster (dipped the clutch and flail carried on driving tractor forwards 😬😬)
 

Rejuvenating swards: Which option is best?

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Written by Brian McDonnell

Maintaining grass quality during mid-season grazing is important. Farmers can maintain quality by entering ideal grazing covers of 1,300 – 1,500kg DM/ha, and grazing down to a residual of 4cm every rotation.

If you are now in a situation where cows are not cleaning out paddocks as well as they should be, leading to the development of steamy grass within the sward, here are some options.

Common options for rejuvenating swards include:

  1. Take a silage cut, probably into bales, remove the material and start again with the aftermath...
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