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Take what your told with a pinch of salt.Thanks @jellybean, @tepapa and @Tubbylew. Safe to say you've answered my question. I'm going to do my own fencing and deciding on how I'm going to do it. At the moment I'm trying to get some telegraph poles for terminal posts, creosoted posts for intermediates, box strainers for ends and double boxes for longer pieces and struts for direction changes. I've always been told boxes are the strongest?
Also nice stags @jellybean
That wouldve been CCA treated, cant get it now .What do you mean by a half box strainer, a shorter secondary post and a top rail which meets the main strainer half way up? If that is the case you will have saved half a post and possibly half a top rail but done exactly the same amount of work.
If you are happy that the half box is as strong as a full box then no problem. You seem to have answered your own question by indicating that in some places a full box strainer isn't necessary.
In reality a properly built strainer assembly will work, whether for deer fencing or for sheep and cattle. That could be a box strainer or a strutted post. Main considerations are having a long enough strainer post i.e at least 4 foot in the ground although bad conditions might need more, followed by top quality work on all struts or box assemblies. Not forgetting that on box assemblies the top rail should be twice the length of the height of the fence.
Fencing in these photos has been up for 32 years so far. It definitely pays to use top quality materials.
I will have said this before but the initial COST of materials and skilled workmanship is irrelevant; what is important is the cost of the fence per year for the next 30 years. So it is simple, decide how long you want the fence to last and spend your money accordingly.
Ye stupid question.@ARW @tepapa sounds like a post/strainer knocked in all the way for a block is the safest to guarantee a good hold. If I'm using an 8ft strut and strainer/post for a strut block, am I not using the same materials I'd need for a box strainer? If so, I guess it comes down to preference and time difference doing each (correct me if that's a stupid question)
Thanks for explaining that's really helpful. I was thinking to wrap 3 times with 2.5mm and crimp it. What's the longest line of netting on flat ground you would pull up?Ye stupid question.
A box strainer is relying on the brace wires to hold tension and resist movement where as an angle is putting the force directly into the ground to resist movement.
(Not trying to pick on you here but your asking the question so it's directed at you).
I don't know how you plan to build the box but let's pretend you're using one wrap of wire and a gripple. Because someone taught you that way or you saw a pic on Facebook. Now your brace wire is doing the holding. One wrap will give you two wires with a braking strain of 600kg each so 1200kg of force at breaking point. And a gripple that will fail at 350kgs. Pull up 10 lines of HT wire to 150kg's and you've loaded 1.5t of force onto that box strainer. Now remember the gripple will fail at 350kgs so a quarter of the tension you've applied. Even without a gripple there's more tension on the fence than the wire can hold. Double your wraps so it will hold 2400kgs force your brace wire is still at almost half it's breaking strain. So you really need at least 3 wraps of 2.5mm ht wire for 3600kg of hold in the box strainer.
My point being, your saying a box is stronger or is preferable/preference but yet I have no idea how you plan to build it or what materials your going to use or how tight your going to tension your netting.
I also know someone who built boxes for 10 years and will probably never build one again now he's learnt to angle stay well on his type of ground (with the odd bit of footing or tying back where required)
If I built the end strainers well enough maybe 1000m. I wouldn't use length as a limiting factor I'd just ensure I'd built my end strainers to hold.Thanks for explaining that's really helpful. I was thinking to wrap 3 times with 2.5mm and crimp it. What's the longest line of netting on flat ground you would pull up?
@tepapa is correct. If the strainer assembly is built properly then you can pull up pretty much as long a run as you want, the strength of the fence is in the strainer and the netting, the intermediate posts just aid in keeping the netting upright and give resistance to livestock pressure. Longest run of HT deer netting I have pulled between 2 box strainers is 800 metres with 11 turning posts in that run. Greased the backs of the turning posts, did the pull last thing one day and left the clamps on, next morning could pull another 9 inches as the netting had moved round the turners. On long runs like that you need to keep walking the line and shaking the slack out or you can end up tight where you are pulling in the middle but slacker at the far ends.If I built the end strainers well enough maybe 1000m. I wouldn't use length as a limiting factor I'd just ensure I'd built my end strainers to hold.
He sent me a couple of photos of the turner posts ‘gorgeous George’ did recently, pretty impressive for a first time!@tepapa @jellybean when I've put the first fence line up I'll put a picture up here and see what you think (for better or worse). Thanks for the advice