John deere telehandler bad start

richieu10

Member
Livestock Farmer
Hi hoping someone can help shed some light.

I have a 3215 telehandler that used to start on the button, now....

If its below 17c it wont start unless its sprayed with easy start, quick spray and it fires straight up, after running it for about a minute it will happily start straight back up again if you turn it off.

Starter is good, battery is good (have tested with boost pack as well and no change)

potential glow plug issue ? any ideas where to get one as i cant find one listed anywhere

is there an air heater for the manifold on these thats gone bad

running out of ideas and easy start!

thanks

Rich
 

Dog&stick

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Herefordshire
Depending on service history & hours, compression test & injector test, the Deere engines usually start well imo, have seen one with inlet hose rubbed through,so sucking in dust, won't last long.
 

agrimax

Member
Location
Co Down
Air heater on the intake manifold...but wouldn't have thought it should need it.
1715032575154.png
 

AJ123

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
South east
If you wiggle the steering wheel while turning it over I find it helps on a 3200.

But it is awful at starting when cold. Likewise, I probably get through a can of easy start every other week in winter. Problem is the more you struggle to start it the more you tire the battery and it gets worse until you have to change it which is awful job on the telehandler.
im on the lookout for some stick on electric heat pads to warm the oil in the sump before starting next winter…
 

solo

Member
Location
worcestershire
If you wiggle the steering wheel while turning it over I find it helps on a 3200.

But it is awful at starting when cold. Likewise, I probably get through a can of easy start every other week in winter. Problem is the more you struggle to start it the more you tire the battery and it gets worse until you have to change it which is awful job on the telehandler.
im on the lookout for some stick on electric heat pads to warm the oil in the sump before starting next winter…
The was a mod done on my 3200 (2002) which drops the hydraulic load until stated. You are doing similar by moving the steering. It starts well since that was done 20 odd years ago.

Back to be op. Does the exhaust smoke whilst turning over? Fuel could be syphoning back to the tank via porous hoses, which would show up on a cold start, whereas once used the fuel wouldn’t have time to drain back.
 

richieu10

Member
Livestock Farmer
hi its always been good at starting since cold purchased in November and started every time until last month so a very new issue

The exhaust does smoke on turnover while trying to start,

thanks

Rich
 

AlCapone

Member
hi its always been good at starting since cold purchased in November and started every time until last month so a very new issue

The exhaust does smoke on turnover while trying to start,

thanks

Rich
Are you having problems with other engines starting?
Did the problems start when you had new load of diesel?
 

Dman2

Member
Location
Durham, UK
Shouldn`t say it
But our 3800 starts great 1st time even when it`s cold
Apart from when the battery started to go, then it wouldn`t start at all even though it seemed to be turning fast enough.
Think they need either a certain fuel pressure or a certain voltage before things open up and let fuel through, or possibly tell the ECU to get going????
 

Gerry6420

Member
Had an issue on my 3420 not starting. Was almost like a dead battery. Turned out to be the isolator not letting full voltage through. Bought new Bosch one on eBay and sorted the problem. Might be of help to someone
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
Shouldn`t say it
But our 3800 starts great 1st time even when it`s cold
Apart from when the battery started to go, then it wouldn`t start at all even though it seemed to be turning fast enough.
Think they need either a certain fuel pressure or a certain voltage before things open up and let fuel through, or possibly tell the ECU to get going????

Ecu has to have a certain voltage for it to work- believe its 11volts.
 

KOS @ Thomas Group

Member
Trade
Its worth trying the Stanadyne Performance Formula Fuel Additive - it has a cetane boost which gives a better burn of the fuel - works really well with worn engines (but not a cure :)

Product is well tried and tested, stocked at most Ag parts suppliers and John Deere/Claas dealers.
 

essexpete

Member
Location
Essex
hi its always been good at starting since cold purchased in November and started every time until last month so a very new issue

The exhaust does smoke on turnover while trying to start,

thanks

Rich
Have you tried starting with a extra boost from an external source? That might tell you if the starter is less than.
 

Netherfield

Member
Location
West Yorkshire
How have you tested the starter to say it's good?

1 What voltage at the battery before starting? ideally 14+volts
2 What voltage at the battery when cranking? Hopefully 12volts
3 What voltage at the Starter solenoid where the battery cable is attached, before starting, should be same as number 1,
4 and when cranking should be the same as number 2
5 What voltage at the starter solenoid terminal which goes to the motor? this should also be the same number 4 when cranking, if not the solenoid contacts could be done for.

I'm sure @ACEngineering would be glad to sell you a new starter if it's that causing the problem.
 

ACEngineering

Member
Trade
Location
Oxon
How have you tested the starter to say it's good?

1 What voltage at the battery before starting? ideally 14+volts
2 What voltage at the battery when cranking? Hopefully 12volts
3 What voltage at the Starter solenoid where the battery cable is attached, before starting, should be same as number 1,
4 and when cranking should be the same as number 2
5 What voltage at the starter solenoid terminal which goes to the motor? this should also be the same number 4 when cranking, if not the solenoid contacts could be done for.

I'm sure @ACEngineering would be glad to sell you a new starter if it's that causing the problem.

I had been sitting on the fence here till someone mentioned my name! i know i keep banging on about starter motors alot :ROFLMAO:

It could well be a lazy old starter motor or one thats been replaced but with a poor quality version of original.

14volts you will only see while running and charging or shortly after stopping before it drops back to around 12.8v which is a fully charged battery at rest.

as for the voltage ECU needs i dont know but i do know it is an issue with them if the ECU doesnt see enough and in that case it will not even attempt to fire injectors.

Cranking speed is always the first thing you need right on any engine if you want to start it easy in all weathers.
 

Netherfield

Member
Location
West Yorkshire
I had been sitting on the fence here till someone mentioned my name! i know i keep banging on about starter motors alot :ROFLMAO:

It could well be a lazy old starter motor or one thats been replaced but with a poor quality version of original.

14volts you will only see while running and charging or shortly after stopping before it drops back to around 12.8v which is a fully charged battery at rest.

as for the voltage ECU needs i dont know but i do know it is an issue with them if the ECU doesnt see enough and in that case it will not even attempt to fire injectors.

Cranking speed is always the first thing you need right on any engine if you want to start it easy in all weathers.
I should be on commission then;)
 

richieu10

Member
Livestock Farmer
Bringing this back to life, not really had to use it through summer, but now needing 2 people to start it with spray is getting frustrating.

External power source added to it makes no difference,
Starter voltages are fine
ECU has good voltage.
isolator bypassed makes no difference
different tanks of fuel have made no difference
moving steering wheel makes no difference

small blast of quick start and it fires right up.

things that i have had in my head

fuel solonoid but i cant find it and also unlikely as after it starts it runs fine
leaking injectors ? but surely it would rough idle

i now have consistent error lights when cranking that look like this
 

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Tractortech

Member
Location
Cumbria
Now Then..
If you have the engine warning light on, connect Service Advisor to it and read the fault codes.
I believe that you may be able to count the flashes too...
How many hours has it done??
Are the fuel hoses in good order with NO signs of dampness??
How old is the battery and is it a genuine JD one.
Has it ever had a starter??
 

Sharpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Also might make a difference if you put up a video of if being cold started without easy start, we have a 6210 here which can be reluctant to start, there is not much difference between turning quick enough to start and not quick enough to start.
 

Flatlander

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lorette Manitoba
Having the correct voltage for everything is one thing but are the cables corroded inside reducing the amps.
I’m a big fan of block heater. Even when it’s just freezing to have the engine partly warm makes starting easy especially on higher houred engines.
 

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