- Location
- northampton
Yep used to drill straight in to ploughing if headlands were rough used to go round a few times with the metering wheel up to level it and used to put turnips straight in to baled stubble
I just used to keep a couple ( 2lh and 2rh) of spare times with the boots and points on so if I broke a tine could swap it over and carry on if the time broke it normally held on to the pipe so could salvage the old boot and pointWhat spares should I be carrying as a routine?
Should think there’s not much go wrong with them ? 4 meter won’t take much dragging would it ?
Left and right coulter tines. Tip, spray all the right hand ones (inc your spares) with an aerosol so when one breaks you know which one it is, not so clear as you would think as they are randomly mixed on the frame.What spares should I be carrying as a routine?
Left and right coulter tines. Tip, spray all the right hand ones (inc your spares) with an aerosol so when one breaks you know which one it is, not so clear as you would think as they are randomly mixed on the frame.
I think on out often hilly ground 200 hp is about ideal for a 4m but if you are on lighter flatter land 160 hp would be enough. As said a bit of speed helps the cultivation effect and with the design of it the coulters don't bounce at all.
I am interested in the thread running about the direct drilling conversions of the freeflow drill which can make it a very flexible piece of kit for many people. Who knows they might be about for another 20 + years in different reincarnations.
As for spares a couple of left and right tines built up with tips and boots on is a good tip as recommended by others, the only other thing is to pass a heavy rope through the tine springs can help retain breakages if they snap in the appropriate way. I have totally lost snapped tines with the boot attached when it's been very dusty and you don't notice straight away.
If it's dry enough drilling the headlands first is great, bit like the old Massey 30 .
Yep used to drill straight in to ploughing if headlands were rough used to go round a few times with the metering wheel up to level it and used to put turnips straight in to baled stubble
Should think there’s not much go wrong with them ? 4 meter won’t take much dragging would it ?
Depends what you do. Have put wheat into subsoiled clay in November with the front tubes in three inches and brought 250hp crawler to its knees.
Will drill into anything in most conditions depending how much of a mess you tolerate the headlands.
Unlike vaddy, it's the front cultivation element that does the work.
Free flow keeps drilling when vaddy is parked up even if you ought not be drilling. Ace in the dry.
Need one with the narrow miniflow boots. Avoid otico front roller if not in great condition. Wire scraper if on clay.
Tbh, a horsch sprinter with front packer will be better and not mega money for most conditions. Mainly as tidy freeflows are harder to find.....and I have the best one in my shed.
Yes I used the precision engineered simba service tool (your lump of wood) and the levelling the headland is a really good reason for forgetting to take the special service tool out of the metering wheelHow did you keep the metering wheel up? I have seen a model with a cleverly designed wooden block with a hole drilled in it for storage when not in use. [emoji6]
We just set the rate to zero!.Yes I used the precision engineered simba service tool (your lump of wood) and the levelling the headland is a really good reason for forgetting to take the special service tool out of the metering wheel
Free flow keeps drilling when vaddy is parked up even if you ought not be drilling. Ace in the dry.
Need one with the narrow miniflow boots. Avoid otico front roller if not in great condition. Wire scraper if on clay.
Tbh, a horsch sprinter with front packer will be better and not mega money for most conditions. Mainly as tidy freeflows are harder to find.....and I have the best one in my shed.