This is great for a novice. Gives an idea of what ploughing should look like.
Virtual Ploughing Tuition
- Thread starter Cordiale
- Start date
This is great for a novice. Gives an idea of what ploughing should look like.
mike.l
Member
- Location
- london ontario
i have a question on ploughing the chip is it possible to do this with success, without moving the plough across on the cross shaft . As moving the cross shaft by any mechanical means in the antique class is a big No No here. I can roll the plough by making the left drop arm longer and using the leveling box on the right side .Lord nuffield worked that out for me a long time ago. Also by using the width adjuster on the plough i can get a little further to the right . from there on it would be the job of the adjustable stabiliser bars. How do you guys get the plough in the correct position. I think this fits in well with this subject as we have been shown how to do it now how do i set my plough to get there mike
You should be able to do it no problem with the furrow width adjuster, albeit it might be a job to keep it straight. It’s a bit Luddite and heathen if you can’t move the plough on the cross shaft. Surely you have to move it in the first place to set it up for ploughing the right width. Who would know? You need to move it slightly for the finish anyway. You can move a trailer plough anywhere you want on the drawbar. What’s the difference.
We also have luddites over here Mike. Usually they are the ones without a workshop. One class with no tweaks is the Fergy class but even so they are allowed to move the cross shaft. The thing is there are enough of us that want to see it done properly rather than see it as best you could do under the circumstances.
People have been making bits and tweaking things since match ploughing began.
Good luck and stay safe.
TrickyT
Member
There are some people in the Fergie class who would prefer it if everyone plough standard. Flat top link, no cross shaft adjuster and no weights.
I have ploughed one of their matches and it was a nigh mare. Hard ground and hard tramlines made it very difficult and it looked like everyone was a novice in the class.
@MrNoo has had some run ins with the 'Fergie Police' about his plough, yet there is nothing illegal about it.
We have both stripped, checked, rebuilt our ploughs several time. Had the coulters and discs rebushed. But it seems founded upon by some that we have done that. The believe that we should just be able to plough with that has been pulled out of a hedge.
Trevor
Every cross shaft on every plough is adjustable even if you have to kick it. I narrow about 2" by moving the cross shaft for the chip but do the rest on the winder, I finish with a chipped width of 25" for 10" furrows. I increase the pitch to avoid moving the chip too far.
Well Trevor, this is to be expected. The fergy class was instigated to provide pots for the poor and was inhabited by the "Its the gadgets init" brigade who wailed that mantra when ever they failed to make the score sheets, It was their utopia, never mind that the "work" was so bad that it cost matches sites, this I know from over hearing a conversation between farmers at a Hereford match which had put a Fergy class in I could have said "trouble the judges" but at that time they gave judges much trouble, trying to find some aspect worth a point! Some of these still inhabit the class, and still wish to bring all down to their level, the rule book is a favoured weapon here, its used to hide the lack of ability of the rule book lawyer!
They also exist in other areas, trying to ban modified ploughs! I am not popular with them, as I can answer them with, this plough is not modified, I built it this way, and its a development exercise. Much muttering in their cups results!
mike.l
Member
- Location
- london ontario
Hi i didn't realize it would only take around 2" of movement on the cross shaft the thought of kicking the cross shaft from side to side was not something i would entertain , but i wonder if i could have a leaver or like to push it across that small amount . I have already fallen foul of the correct police last year i was reported to the chief steward at a important match by someone who could be called my friend. for using a threaded rod to push the plow across This year by changing plows and trying to do all adjustments on the cross shaft leaver and as a final using my stabilizer bar to get a little more. . Now i will grease the cross shaft and devise a method of moving the plow a little amount. I have also told people that the plow came with the cross shaft adjustment built at the factory, but thats like beating my head on the wall, does not do any good. I think i should go back to quiet mode now so this thread can get back on track thanks for info mike
take a weight off and use it as a hammer Mike! and if your "Friend" starts complaining, drop that one on his foot and use another to move the shaft!
- Location
- Cirencester
It bemuses me when I see peeps using a lump hammer on a plough or even a normal one, why?? Surely it should all be taken care of during your plough "preparation" in the workshop???
mike.l
Member
- Location
- london ontario
Hi I do not carry a hammer i prep and restore then paint and i would like to keep the paint on the bits for a day or 2 mike
Hi Mike
Keep asking questions, that's why I started the thread, so us less able ploughmen might get some useful pointers that we can try and put in practice when the easing of the lockdown allows.
I know the problem, many of the movable bits on my plough are now stainless steel.
Steve Framingham Made up a bar about 4ft long with a chain attached about 4-6" from one end . I think he welded a hook on the frame of the plough to which he could attach the chain at different distances and used the bottom of the bar to lever the shaft through. It is some time since I saw this so use your own imagination. He did this to get round the rules police and won a number of matches. He did this to quell the whingers who will never be any good but just look for excuses.
Mydexta
Member
- Location
- Dundee/angus
He’s come a long way since then with his engineering
If it’s in good order and lubricated you don’t need a hammer. What you have to realise is that when sliding it across you move the plough relative to the tractor ie the distance from the rear axle centreline to the end of the lower link is less when the link is out wide than when the lower link is at right angles to that centreline. To counteract this either turn the furrow width adjuster till it is free or keep easing the plough on the lift without raising it fully off the ground.
Just a small point but I once had a 995. I took every bit of play out of the linkage. Could not plough with it - just too rigid. The only things which need to be tight are the disc bearings and shanks and anything which is bolted in place. The lobes on the end of the cross shaft need to be dead tight, similarly the lever arm fixed to the cross shaft, once the cross shaft is in the right place but if the cross shaft itself is an easy sliding fit that’s fine. Don’t use a grease gun on the cross shaft use an oil can with universal in it.
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Had a good teacher / sounding board!
This was a bit of fun he was having with the whingers who had campaigned for an unmodified class. He told them that he could still win with an unmodified plough so he tidied up a TS59 with YLs and entered their unmodified class. After a string of wins he reverted to ploughing in classic because he had proved his point and the numpties took the hint.
Took the hint Bob? Thats a first in its own right, they usually delve deeper into the rule book, and if there is nothing there for them, their efforts are directed to its extension! Truth is, there is no such thing as an unmodified plough. A hex bolt, a welded repair are deviations from standard.So can be classed as mods