average farmer
Member
- Location
- North Notts
I’m not planning on growing any, unless someone was to give me the seed don’t think I’ll bothercan you put a seed boot on the back of the tine?
I’m not planning on growing any, unless someone was to give me the seed don’t think I’ll bothercan you put a seed boot on the back of the tine?
We used to shallow drill them into lightly worked stubbles with The Accord then plough them in . Then a few days later ( Weather permitting!) Run the rolls over it. It always worked well for us.Only problem is if the pods set low, harvesting close to lumpy ground
Was the norm in the days of simazine
Why deep till them after drilling other than by ploughing? I'd say that deep tillage other than ploughing is out of the question now anyway.
I’ve got low disturbance points on the sumo. I just think that ploughing them in and then possibly powerharrow the ploughing to level it up will cost more and do more damage to the soil. It’s not been ploughed for 7 years so I’m a bit reluctant to turn it over if I don’t have to. If it’s wet then plough is the only option but the forcast is looking to be more settled after tomorrow.
Is the soil compacted? If not, leave it well alone.
You must be a long way from Dorset - the forecast down here is awful for the next couple of weeks. You haven't put your location on your profile. Edit: just looked your posts up - you're in North Yorkshire. God's Country!
Why not just stick the leading tines well in on the Claydon? I'd be concerned you'll finish up moving the beans with the Sumo, struggle to put it, and finish up with very variable emergence.
Other alternative I guess is to spin them on and bury with Sumo.
Far too wet to think about planting beans on heavy land here just now.
It’s not compacted really, conditions were dry when the wheat was harvested with a tracked combine and straw chopped. It’s just been lightly cultivated to get a flush of weeds.
Just worried they’d smear the soil and the beans would sit wet a long time. My thought process was that if the drill did smear it the the sumo would crack, disturb the smearing and let it drain more than just leaving it? I’m probably totally wrong but I keep getting these silly thoughts while watching it rain
I'd say that the Claydon would be enough. I've got 50 acres of beans to drill for a neighbour with my Claydon. How deep did you sow yours? I was just planning on using the 3" spoons and a pea/bean seed chute. Leading tines 2" deeper than the seed. It seemed to work well for another local on heavy clay last year & he was happy with the crop. It took all 370 horses under the bonnet to pull the 6m drill!
How does lateral compaction work with a Triton. Isn't that how they close the seed slot?You need a wing to leg depth ratio of 1:6 to avoid lateral compaction i.e. for working 12" deep you need at least 2" of wing. That's why you shouldn't have Claydon 1" wide legs running deeper than 6"
I'd say that the Claydon would be enough. I've got 50 acres of beans to drill for a neighbour with my Claydon. How deep did you sow yours? I was just planning on using the 3" spoons and a pea/bean seed chute. Leading tines 2" deeper than the seed. It seemed to work well for another local on heavy clay last year & he was happy with the crop. It took all 370 horses under the bonnet to pull the 6m drill!
use an old combine sieve balanced on the spreader to do mineAnyone in Suffolk/Essex cleaning some beans?
Good idea neighbour, though I haven't found the beans yet.use an old combine sieve balanced on the spreader to do mine