Winter beans

Roy_H

Member
Only problem is if the pods set low, harvesting close to lumpy ground

Was the norm in the days of simazine
We used to shallow drill them into lightly worked stubbles with The Accord then plough them in . Then a few days later ( Weather permitting!) Run the rolls over it. It always worked well for us.
Ah Simazine! The good old days eh? it killed everything except the beans and cleavers.
 

benny6910

Member
Arable Farmer
Last year I drilled my beans with a claydon, got a yield of over 2 ton/acre but it was dry. Has anybody drilled beans with a claydon then sumo’ed after the drill to lift compaction and help drainage. My beans are going in on reasonably heavy land I don’t really want to plough it as it will turn up rough and probably very wet
 

benny6910

Member
Arable Farmer
Why deep till them after drilling other than by ploughing? I'd say that deep tillage other than ploughing is out of the question now anyway.

I’ve got low disturbance points on the sumo. I just think that ploughing them in and then possibly powerharrow the ploughing to level it up will cost more and do more damage to the soil. It’s not been ploughed for 7 years so I’m a bit reluctant to turn it over if I don’t have to. If it’s wet then plough is the only option but the forcast is looking to be more settled after tomorrow.
 

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
I’ve got low disturbance points on the sumo. I just think that ploughing them in and then possibly powerharrow the ploughing to level it up will cost more and do more damage to the soil. It’s not been ploughed for 7 years so I’m a bit reluctant to turn it over if I don’t have to. If it’s wet then plough is the only option but the forcast is looking to be more settled after tomorrow.

Why not just stick the leading tines well in on the Claydon? I'd be concerned you'll finish up moving the beans with the Sumo, struggle to put it, and finish up with very variable emergence.
Other alternative I guess is to spin them on and bury with Sumo.

Far too wet to think about planting beans on heavy land here just now.
 

Brisel

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Midlands
Is the soil compacted? If not, leave it well alone.

You must be a long way from Dorset - the forecast down here is awful for the next couple of weeks. You haven't put your location on your profile. Edit: just looked your posts up - you're in North Yorkshire. God's Country! :)
 

benny6910

Member
Arable Farmer
Is the soil compacted? If not, leave it well alone.

You must be a long way from Dorset - the forecast down here is awful for the next couple of weeks. You haven't put your location on your profile. Edit: just looked your posts up - you're in North Yorkshire. God's Country! :)

It’s not compacted really, conditions were dry when the wheat was harvested with a tracked combine and straw chopped. It’s just been lightly cultivated to get a flush of weeds.
 

benny6910

Member
Arable Farmer
Why not just stick the leading tines well in on the Claydon? I'd be concerned you'll finish up moving the beans with the Sumo, struggle to put it, and finish up with very variable emergence.
Other alternative I guess is to spin them on and bury with Sumo.

Far too wet to think about planting beans on heavy land here just now.

Just worried they’d smear the soil and the beans would sit wet a long time. My thought process was that if the drill did smear it the the sumo would crack, disturb the smearing and let it drain more than just leaving it? I’m probably totally wrong but I keep getting these silly thoughts while watching it rain
 

Brisel

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Midlands
It’s not compacted really, conditions were dry when the wheat was harvested with a tracked combine and straw chopped. It’s just been lightly cultivated to get a flush of weeds.

I'd say that the Claydon would be enough. I've got 50 acres of beans to drill for a neighbour with my Claydon. How deep did you sow yours? I was just planning on using the 3" spoons and a pea/bean seed chute. Leading tines 2" deeper than the seed. It seemed to work well for another local on heavy clay last year & he was happy with the crop. It took all 370 horses under the bonnet to pull the 6m drill!
 

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
Just worried they’d smear the soil and the beans would sit wet a long time. My thought process was that if the drill did smear it the the sumo would crack, disturb the smearing and let it drain more than just leaving it? I’m probably totally wrong but I keep getting these silly thoughts while watching it rain

I'd agree with @Brisel, but I guess no harm in a trial. The other alternative is Sumo it first, deeper than you plan to drill it. Mine will be down with my Kockerling drill, about 5" deep. Thinking of cutting the 17" shares down to 12" to make it easier to pull and reduce disturbance. We usually run with 3 tines on a bar behind the tractor, which takes the wheelings out and some harvest compaction. The 3 tines run in line with the back 3 sowing legs. It needs to dry fairish first though. No rush. Yet!
 

Brisel

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Midlands
You need a wing to leg depth ratio of 1:6 to avoid lateral compaction i.e. for working 12" deep you need at least 2" of wing. That's why you shouldn't have Claydon 1" wide legs running deeper than 6"
 

benny6910

Member
Arable Farmer
I'd say that the Claydon would be enough. I've got 50 acres of beans to drill for a neighbour with my Claydon. How deep did you sow yours? I was just planning on using the 3" spoons and a pea/bean seed chute. Leading tines 2" deeper than the seed. It seemed to work well for another local on heavy clay last year & he was happy with the crop. It took all 370 horses under the bonnet to pull the 6m drill!

Last year I planted them at 5inch as it was so dry, probably 4inch this year. It’s not my drill it’s a neighbor that will sow it for me again hopefully, he just said he had bean Coulter’s on and we dropped the front legs to 6inch last year.
 

juke

Member
Location
DURHAM
6 inches for the for the front leg narrow bean spoon, short bean boot set between 3 or 4 inches jobs a goodun with the Claydon. If there's one thing a Claydon does well it's putting beans in the ground.
 
we used to put them in with a subsoiler
the biggest problem I found was you could plant them when it was too wet for them to do well

so I stopped growing winter beans and drilled springs in 2013 mid april springs were the best crop of the year eliminating bg
chopped straw and notill planted
 

tw15

Member
Location
DORSET
I'd say that the Claydon would be enough. I've got 50 acres of beans to drill for a neighbour with my Claydon. How deep did you sow yours? I was just planning on using the 3" spoons and a pea/bean seed chute. Leading tines 2" deeper than the seed. It seemed to work well for another local on heavy clay last year & he was happy with the crop. It took all 370 horses under the bonnet to pull the 6m drill!

Looking like it will be 75 acres of beans now for you to claydon dril kind sir .
 

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