Lucas G straw chopper manual

[gone up the hill]

Has anyone got the manual for the above machine? just that im looking for the bed chain assembly part number/s.

( for a 30R model )

Thanks.

 

[milkloss]

Afaik you can only gets the parts from Halse and their storeman is very knowledgable.

 

[milkloss]

It didn't eat the bed chain slats and all did it?

 

[gone up the hill]

Afaik you can only gets the parts from Halse and their storeman is very knowledgable.

Had a price from them and was a fair whack. ( agree about their storeman mind )

I know that Sparex do some parts for them, just wondered if they do the bed chains as well.

 

[gone up the hill]

It didn't eat the bed chain slats and all did it?

They are all worn quite badly where the bolts go thru so hence quite a bit of play and it keeps jumping off, have taken out some chain links but only a short term solution sadly.

 

[e3120]

Is it not just standard chain between the slats? Taking a pair of links out when you run out of adjustment is the correct thing and should be a medium term fix, as long as the chain isn't near worn through. Keeping the tension right is a hell of a lot easier than getting cut from the beater getting the chains back on right.

On our last one a bit of scaff tube, that was extending rear door, parted company and bent the front shaft/tube for the floor on its way through (4ft length somehow got all the way) Didn't realise until it broke the drive motor shaft a few days later. Big money for the shaft from Halse (if they don't have parts, no-one will); local engineering shop put old ends on new tube in the end, but they aren't easy paid either.

I will have book somewhere for a 30RUC if you want me to look.

 

[gone up the hill]

Is it not just standard chain between the slats? Taking a pair of links out when you run out of adjustment is the correct thing and should be a medium term fix, as long as the chain isn't near worn through. Keeping the tension right is a hell of a lot easier than getting cut from the beater getting the chains back on right.

On our last one a bit of scaff tube, that was extending rear door, parted company and bent the front shaft/tube for the floor on its way through (4ft length somehow got all the way) Didn't realise until it broke the drive motor shaft a few days later. Big money for the shaft from Halse (if they don't have parts, no-one will); local engineering shop put old ends on new tube in the end, but they aren't easy paid either.

I will have book somewhere for a 30RUC if you want me to look.

Took links out and it didn't work for very long, ended up with one of the bars coming off and getting jammed against the rotor ( thankfully didn't damage that as would be a massive repair cost ) but cant risk it happening again as wont be so lucky next time!

Problem is that not only the chain is worn badly but the bolt holes are badly worn as well ( except on the new bar ) so thus a lot of slack coming from them as well which doesn't help,

Open to any ideas on how to make a repair/ only some new parts used to keep the current chain going.

If you can dig out your book that would be much appreciated as I seem to have lost mine.

Thanks.

 

[milkloss]

Sometimes what you think is chain wear is actually the u-bolts for the slats getting worn and/or broken. When you replace the slat bolt you'll find they take loads of slack out of the chain. Replaced all our slat bolts on a 6 year old machine as they were breaking. You won't notice them breaking at first because the bone under the slatholds the bolts together for a time until it's gets too shonky and falls apart.

 

[milkloss]

Took links out and it didn't work for very long, ended up with one of the bars coming off and getting jammed against the rotor ( thankfully didn't damage that as would be a massive repair cost ) but cant risk it happening again as wont be so lucky next time!

Problem is that not only the chain is worn badly but the bolt holes are badly worn as well ( except on the new bar ) so thus a lot of slack coming from them as well which doesn't help,

Open to any ideas on how to make a repair/ only some new parts used to keep the current chain going.

If you can dig out your book that would be much appreciated as I seem to have lost mine.

Thanks.

Check all the u bolts have bones under the slats as mentioned in my previous post. They can get forgotten about when adjusting chains. They also negate the slack from worn bolt holes in the slats.

 

[gone up the hill]

Sometimes what you think is chain wear is actually the u-bolts for the slats getting worn and/or broken. When you replace the slat bolt you'll find they take loads of slack out of the chain. Replaced all our slat bolts on a 6 year old machine as they were breaking. You won't notice them breaking at first because the bone under the slatholds the bolts together for a time until it's gets too shonky and falls apart.

Not sure that will be any more than a short term fix thou as my chain has a lot of slack, ideally need to take out 3/4 links of chain each side so can tension it on the outside by the door as you are meant to do but not sure that is a feasible idea.

Also need to be wary of the labour cost when doing anything as that can soon rack up as well.

 

[e3120]

Took links out and it didn't work for very long, ended up with one of the bars coming off and getting jammed against the rotor ( thankfully didn't damage that as would be a massive repair cost ) but cant risk it happening again as wont be so lucky next time!

Problem is that not only the chain is worn badly but the bolt holes are badly worn as well ( except on the new bar ) so thus a lot of slack coming from them as well which doesn't help,

Open to any ideas on how to make a repair/ only some new parts used to keep the current chain going.

If you can dig out your book that would be much appreciated as I seem to have lost mine.

Thanks.

I'll rummage tomorrow.

I suppose what could be happening is that the worn chain isn't wanting to sit neatly on the front sprockets. In that case I can't see any option but to renew the chain. Is it any more than 1 1/2" (?) pitch chain chopped up into 18" lengths?

What would you estimate the bale count at? Last one here started showing various fatigue at, I suppose, 15k. To be fair, the new one (2 y.o. now) has been improved in some of those areas.

 

[milkloss]

Not sure that will be any more than a short term fix thou as my chain has a lot of slack, ideally need to take out 3/4 links of chain each side so can tension it on the outside by the door as you are meant to do but not sure that is a feasible idea.

Also need to be wary of the labour cost when doing anything as that can soon rack up as well.

Be really careful taking the slack out and making it tight. Usual is pull the chain up in the middle by four inches max from the bed floor(we have a two round bale machine with the door shut). Make sure you lift each slat and feel the u bolt underneath to see if it has sheared as you get much accelerated stretch of the chain as a whole when that occurs. Tightening the chain will make it part company. Been there many times

 

[gone up the hill]

I'll rummage tomorrow.

I suppose what could be happening is that the worn chain isn't wanting to sit neatly on the front sprockets. In that case I can't see any option but to renew the chain. Is it any more than 1 1/2" (?) pitch chain chopped up into 18" lengths?

What would you estimate the bale count at? Last one here started showing various fatigue at, I suppose, 15k. To be fair, the new one (2 y.o. now) has been improved in some of those areas.

Its been a very good and reliable machine other than the chain and will need to do the pump at some point as starting to lose a very small bit of oil. ( daren't ask the cost of that but hopefully can get it repaired somewhere ) other than that the machine is in very good condition.

I reckon the bale count is about 10/k now, I never could understand when it came new why the chain had more tension on one side than the other, is that how they are meant to be?

Not measured the chain size yet but as far as I know its just the standard chain size for that machine, cant see any serial numbers on the chain or bars etc as that would have helped.

 

[gone up the hill]

Be really careful taking the slack out and making it tight. Usual is pull the chain up in the middle by four inches max from the bed floor(we have a two round bale machine with the door shut). Make sure you lift each slat and feel the u bolt underneath to see if it has sheared as you get much accelerated stretch of the chain as a whole when that occurs. Tightening the chain will make it part company. Been there many times

What worry's me is if I take too much chain out it wont run on the sprockets correctly and will jump off again sooner rather than later, I reckon it has about 4/5 inches slack in the middle like you describe, cant really risk it getting jammed against the rotor again.

Don't think that any of the bolts have sheared off but thanks for that suggestion and will check them tomorrow if I get time.

 

[fieldfarmer]

What worry's me is if I take too much chain out it wont run on the sprockets correctly and will jump off again sooner rather than later, I reckon it has about 4/5 inches slack in the middle like you describe, cant really risk it getting jammed against the rotor again.

Don't think that any of the bolts have sheared off but thanks for that suggestion and will check them tomorrow if I get time.

Imo I don't think you can take to much chain out, the sprockets will run the same if you took a foot out but you must make sure that both chains are exactly the same length, to explain better, the same number of links each side, even if one chain then looks tighter than the other on the adjuster .

 

[jondear]

The chains very rarely break .It's u bolts that wear and break .You can take out lots of links for adjustment just make sure you change u bolts .Failing that you can buy whole new set of chains and slats for about 1k .Speak to the workshop at halses .Had ours break jamming up bed which broke bed motor which was 800 quid.New machines have smaller motor that won't tare appart .

 

[e3120]

Got the book in front of me now. Not a lot of help though, as there's no part numbers, just drawing and item number. There isn't a drawing for the bed chain.

It does describe shortening the chains as above, when the tensioner has run out of travel. Spec for slack in the chain is 5cm for the 30 and 7cm for the 60. I would have said 1-2", so similar. I also can see no issue in removing links, though would pick a different inter-slat gap for the 2nd time. I only removed links once on my old machine. Tension should be same on both sides, regardless of tensioner position. If yours has been running with different tensions it won't have done it much good.

There is mention in the book of turning the entire base conveyor - see your dealer. Also in the troubleshooting section, after tightening/shortening the chain, if chain still coming off it may be the base conveyor/chain wheels worn - see your dealer.

I'm fairly sure there's no 'bone' under the slats on mine as mentioned by @milkloss and I can't see anything in the book where it describes how to remove 2 links, just the u-bolt. It is a good call on u-bolt wear being as much of a problem as anything. Be worth carefully getting your head in to have a look at the front sprockets, especially if tension has been uneven. Those serated blades are that sharp on the unused side that you don't feel them slicing you!

 

[jondear]

They always wear uneven on bed one side faster than the other.A 60 will wear much faster with longer bed chains and more links.

 

[vanderbadger]

well folks, just bought a 2nd hand lucas blower today, dont ask me the model but its on the linkage arms
it has electric controls, pretty small controller
so just had time to put it on tractor this evening, i dont have a manual so just trying to figure out how to work it
so i can seem to get the fuctions working on the controller but not sure how to do some stuff
the controller has 1 button underneath, a bunch of 4 buttons on front and another one by itself which seems to turn electrics on and off, anyways, wondering what combination gets the floor moving?
also presume pto works rotars but seemed to me the rotar with the knives wasnt moving but it still seemed to be blowing crap out the spout if that makes sense, that doesnt seem right does it, i was by myself and in a bit of a rush so didnt get a chance to check it out properly

 

[jondear]

Must be a shear bolt broken !