Is it taking much hp?
very little, 724 hardly knows its on even with 2000L fert in the tank
maybe should have gone for a CO8 ????
Is it taking much hp?
Or a smaller tractor...very little, 724 hardly knows its on even with 2000L fert in the tank
maybe should have gone for a CO8 ????
Or a smaller tractor...
Is the fert 100l as? And are you putting it on to have more growth for grazing?
Are you rolling any afterwards?I like the 724's - good residuals, light weight and enough power to pull and be boss off an 18t grain trailer and maybe trailed sprayers in the future, 4 L/ha on the 750a and similar on this drill, its cheap enough without having to look at running Trantors ;-)
Fert is going on because we are later getting these covers in that I want to be, trouble was wheat wasn't ready so we couldn't get on sooner, they will be grazed, LOT more sheep here this winter planed, just urea (N20)
Are you rolling any afterwards?
Amazone? I was thinking of fitting some like that on mine.These fit really well.
View attachment 383538
Accord z style from Pan Anglia, 10mm thick, they do a lighter 8mm as well which would be OK on a tilthy seedbed.Amazone? I was thinking of fitting some like that on mine.
Spaldings do themLooks like a very tidy and simple set up is it possible to get a set to fit on co4 and where can they be got thanks
Think I need to move the drawbar pull for this to the link arms on a A frame as I had originally planned, it will help turning a lot I think until I can add an extra articulation between seed cart and tool bar over winter
It really working well in field but getting this in and out of some of our fields is "interesting" !
@RJW do sumo make a linkage A frame with Ball hitch and what would £ / availability be please ?
Clive, would you mind if I ask what the specific problem is with the steering as it stands, in your opinion? Is it the turn radius? The reason I ask is that I operated a CO9 with a steering seed cart for a long time and know a bit about its peculiarities!
Ps. I'm a relatively new member and haven't posted before so if I'm speaking out of turn, please say so.
The issue is that it really doesn't follow the tractor well so turning in through even wide gates off a narrow lane means the rear of the drill cuts in badly, its hard to get into some of our land
The hydraulic steering of the seed cart helps but its trying to push against the rear packer roller which isn't steering, this lists the effect of that steering and feels like it placing a lot of stress on the steering rams and rods
It's fine in field though !
solution I have in mind is to place an articulation between seed cart and toolbar and also push the drawbar further back with a linkage A frame to provide more clearance from tractor rear wheels when on lock
seems poorly designed frankly with the obvious improvements above I wonder why Horsch didn't do similar ?
is your experience with a euro spec seed / fert hopper ? from conversations with others is seems the UK smaller wheel castoring axles work all together differently ?
any help / advice appreciated, other than this issue its working very well in its new role
I have just stumbled across this:
Forward speed and depth are clearly going to be an issue from a disturbance perspective - Clive, what sort of speed are you doing?
Also, I can't help wondering if, as well as a leading straight disc, a triangular profile tungsten tile rather than a flat one would help - does anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks
p.s. i've just bought a co4.....
A couple of questions- are you running the double acting steering circuit in float position all the time, when going forwards? And is the steering rams isolation tap under the rhs of the tank open? If yes, I'm afraid I can't help much!
The only advice I could offer is to consider that the control point is actually the rear packer axle line and as such the turn characteristics are like a rear axled lowloader - slow and late!
I remember it took me a while to get comfortable using the steering to reverse.
I found it helpful to think of it like a fifth wheel with a really short drawbar. Then I used the hydraulic control to "manage" the steering wheels while reversing, stopping tgem getting away from you- rather than forcing the wheels to go where you wanted.
The other reversing tip is to try and set up so that you only ever really have to reverse roughly straight! It makes life much easier!
When you said you were considering adding another pivot point between the seed cart and toolbar, my first reaction was "NOOOOO! Four steering pivot points!- But after thinking a bit more, I'm coming around to your idea- more each time I think about it!
You may have to lock the steering elements on the cart to the straight ahead position to stop it weaving when you don't need the extra articulation, though, such as in work, or at speed in transport.
You're spot on; fantastic tool in the field though. Mine had Terragrip tines which were as good as the Multigrip.
Sounds like you've got some really good ideas in the pipeline though, and I'm really interested in seeing where you go with the developments. You've got me dreaming up my own - admittedly fantasy - ULD drill mods now! Off to Agriaffaires to browse for inspiration.
Nice video, I went Dutch openers which I'm pleased with but I don't want ULD on my drill. I also removed covering discs and replaced Harrow tines with Accord Z style 10mm dia. These are fabulous drills.I have just stumbled across this:
Forward speed and depth are clearly going to be an issue from a disturbance perspective - Clive, what sort of speed are you doing?
Also, I can't help wondering if, as well as a leading straight disc, a triangular profile tungsten tile rather than a flat one would help - does anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks
p.s. i've just bought a co4.....
Nice video, I went Dutch openers which I'm pleased with but I don't want ULD on my drill. I also removed covering discs and replaced Harrow tines with Accord Z style 10mm dia. These are fabulous drills.