Would you put E7 or E9 in a fordson major?The engine oil is backwards compatable, so you'd be able to but the fancy pants oil the Deere needs in the Ford, which may be more than it needs but would be easier to manage
Would you put E7 or E9 in a fordson major?The engine oil is backwards compatable, so you'd be able to but the fancy pants oil the Deere needs in the Ford, which may be more than it needs but would be easier to manage
Gears are gears, bearings are bearings and wet clutches and brakes are little if any different in the context of the lubricant they require. Viscosity and the international performance standards required and supplied are the only things that are important.I can’t see the point in running two different types of oil in the backend of tractors that share the same tipping pipes.most if not all tractor manufacturers and oil suppliers have specifications and they need to Match up,JD high-guard and NH multi G will be the same spec i would have thought the tractors internally won’t be that much different.
Why not?Would you put E7 or E9 in a fordson major?
The OP has an 8340, not a Fordson Major. If he has to buy two separate oils for the 2 tractors, he'll be buying it in smaller amounts, which will be more expensive. If he just buys a drum of CK4, which is probably what the Deere needs, although it will be an extravagance in the Ford, it may be cheaper over all and easier to manage.Would you put E7 or E9 in a fordson major?
I’ve often been told don’t use to high detergent oil in dirty old engines as it dislodges the black stuff and it block's oil strainers and filters up or cleans them to much and they start using oilWhy not?
To be fair the difference between an 8340 and a fordson major engine won’t be that much other than a turbo both direct injection diesel engines without any emissions gadget,s on them.The OP has an 8340, not a Fordson Major. If he has to buy two separate oils for the 2 tractors, he'll be buying it in smaller amounts, which will be more expensive. If he just buys a drum of CK4, which is probably what the Deere needs, although it will be an extravagance in the Ford, it may be cheaper over all and easier to manage.
Barrel of WBTO from Witham or JDF from Morris.Withams lubricants I find are very good . Give them a buzz very helpful
That’s exactly what I’m hoping for. Will price up hyguard and equivalent in the morning. Deere does the lions share and don’t want it lieing down. If the 8340 does it’s a shame but not end of the worldThe OP has an 8340, not a Fordson Major. If he has to buy two separate oils for the 2 tractors, he'll be buying it in smaller amounts, which will be more expensive. If he just buys a drum of CK4, which is probably what the Deere needs, although it will be an extravagance in the Ford, it may be cheaper over all and easier to manage.
Is the John Deere under warranty? Deere may quibble if you use none genuine oil, but it it meets the specs what is written on the drum won't make any differenceThat’s exactly what I’m hoping for. Will price up hyguard and equivalent in the morning. Deere does the lions share and don’t want it lieing down. If the 8340 does it’s a shame but not end of the world
No it’s 12 years old.Is the John Deere under warranty? Deere may quibble if you use none genuine oil, but it it meets the specs what is written on the drum won't make any difference
Will give them both a buzz, like likely have to find somewhere in NI so I can pick up justBarrel of WBTO from Witham or JDF from Morris.
That assumes that the old engine is actually dirty. If it has been changed every year or two or every 150 to 200 hours, whichever comes first, with modern oils it should be fine. Just because the tractor is very old, it does not follow that it has been neglected any more than a 21st Century model.I’ve often been told don’t use to high detergent oil in dirty old engines as it dislodges the black stuff and it block's oil strainers and filters up or cleans them to much and they start using oil
I’m a Ford man the specifications between 15w/30 suto and 10w/30 would suit or change between the 10 series and 40 series.and the same with JD 15w/30 up to the end of 50 series.like a 15w/30 would be ideal 300 series MFWhile the people who seem to know are on here, 15w-30 stou for older engines / gearboxes ie; 2005 and earlier ? or 10w 30?
You really only need one drum for the newer Deere. The Ford/New Holland up to the end of the TM model range will be well matched to 10W30 Super Universal which is also great for both transmissions.No it’s 12 years old.
Will continue buying small drums for the engines.
Just like the convenience of one trans oil and as said when swapping implements back and forth no oil contamination.
Most old stuff I work on (other people,s ) is mostly pretty disgusting.i just have,nt had time yet I have to service the vets MF35 . I supplied him it over 26 years ago.he said to me one day will the tractor need a service I said when was it last done ,it hasn’t been done since I bought it 26 years ago ,i said it was getting pretty imminentThat assumes that the old engine is actually dirty. If it has been changed every year or two or every 150 to 200 hours, whichever comes first, with modern oils it should be fine. Just because the tractor is very old, it does not follow that it has been neglected any more than a 21st Century model.
Most old stuff I work on (other people,s ) is mostly pretty disgusting.i just have,nt had time yet I have to service the vets MF35 . I supplied him it over 26 years ago.he said to me one day will the tractor need a service I said when was it last done ,it hasn’t been done since I bought it 26 years ago ,i said it was getting pretty imminent
Make sure the cheaper oil is virgin and not recycled before you buy itMini update: got prices for oils
Hyguard £650
Millars £450
Exol £400
And 15w30 (god knows what make) £390
Vast differences.
are Millars/Exol good enough brands. Will work out as cost effective to stick to 20ls as go for hyguard in both.
and 1 stupid question, do I need to drain all oil before putting in the hyguard equivalent to the Ford or is it ok just to keep topping up?