Transmission oil.

[Magnus Oyke]

Mini update: got prices for oils

Hyguard £650
Millars £450
Exol £400
And 15w30 (god knows what make) £390

Vast differences.
are Millars/Exol good enough brands. Will work out as cost effective to stick to 20ls as go for hyguard in both.

and 1 stupid question, do I need to drain all oil before putting in the hyguard equivalent to the Ford or is it ok just to keep topping up?

Look at thev specs, if it meets the spec for your John Deere it will be fine.

You don't need to drain the Ford

 

[clbarclay]

Most utto oils will meet a range of specs. We had one 40 gallon drum which came with a sticker on top listing dozens of different standards it met, including J20C (hyguard).

The 8340 manual should list the acceptable standards for back end oils.

 

[ford 7810]

Mini update: got prices for oils

Hyguard £650
Millars £450
Exol £400
And 15w30 (god knows what make) £390

Vast differences.
are Millars/Exol good enough brands. Will work out as cost effective to stick to 20ls as go for hyguard in both.

and 1 stupid question, do I need to drain all oil before putting in the hyguard equivalent to the Ford or is it ok just to keep topping up?

This is what we,re on ,it covers a more specification than Pacific one brand oils,. including for us Valtra witch a lot don’t cover . however, manufacturers brand oil probably do cover them but don’t write it on the tin.

 

[Cowabunga]

I’ve used a few small drums of Exol UTTO recently and it’s as good as any other. I have no brand loyalty whatsoever when it comes to lubricating oil. I draw the line at so-called ‘green barrel’ cheap stuff with no proper known branding

 

[Pistonbroke]

Make sure the cheaper oil is virgin and not recycled before you buy it

Can't say I've ever seen anyone advertising virgin or not. Or for oil for that matter

 

[Pistonbroke]

Mini update: got prices for oils

Hyguard £650
Millars £450
Exol £400
And 15w30 (god knows what make) £390

Vast differences.
are Millars/Exol good enough brands. Will work out as cost effective to stick to 20ls as go for hyguard in both.

and 1 stupid question, do I need to drain all oil before putting in the hyguard equivalent to the Ford or is it ok just to keep topping up?

Friend works at a new Holland dealer and they recommend the exol

 

[Cowabunga]

Friend works at a new Holland dealer and they recommend the exol

Could that possibly be because Exol have a good rep that offers superior gross margins to the dealer? It’s as good as any other, certainly, but no better as far as I can see.

 

[choochter]

I've run out of 10W30 but have some 10W40
Can I put that in the MF3060's backend?

 

[76masseyman]

I've run out of 10W30 but have some 10W40
Can I put that in the MF3060's backend?

Is it a 10w/40 transmission oil ?

 

[choochter]

Is it a 10w/40 transmission oil ?

 

[76masseyman]

That’s an oil you’ve probably bought for your Quadbike engine.

 

[davidroberts30]

 

[choochter]

do elaborate, I'm not an expert in oils

 

[Exfarmer]

To be honest it would be better than running the oil low and if it is less than 10% it should do no harm

 

[davidroberts30]

do elaborate, I'm not an expert in oils

Better than nothing but won't have correct additives for clutch packs or EP rating for in between gears


I wouldn't if you can help it

 

[choochter]

ok, thanks

 

[Cowabunga]

View attachment 1172589

NO! You should not use engine oil in the transmission. The viscosity is not the problem. The issue is the additive package, specifically the friction modifiers that are missing but needed for the wet clutches and brakes that live in that transmission. It must be either a Super Universal [suitable for engine and transmission] or Universal Tractor Transmission Oil which is not suitable for engines. Get the right oil before pouring that pure engine oil in. You will need it sooner or later anyway.
However, do not run the tractor with no oil on the dipstick. On the low mark is not so much an issue normally.

 

[choochter]

thanks, I wont

 

[Magnus Oyke]

NO! You should not use engine oil in the transmission. The viscosity is not the problem. The issue is the additive package, specifically the friction modifiers that are missing but needed for the wet clutches and brakes that live in that transmission. It must be either a Super Universal [suitable for engine and transmission] or Universal Tractor Transmission Oil which is not suitable for engines. Get the right oil before pouring that pure engine oil in. You will need it sooner or later anyway.
However, do not run the tractor with no oil on the dipstick. On the low mark is not so much an issue normally.

Motorbikes have a wet clutch and the transmisison, engine and clutch all use the same oil. I'd still not put that in the tractor back end. I'm not sure I'd put it in my bike either...

 

[Cowabunga]

Motorbikes have a wet clutch and the transmisison, engine and clutch all use the same oil. I'd still not put that in the tractor back end. I'm not sure I'd put it in my bike either...

Most of the ones I’ve had anything to do with have a dry centrifugal clutch and a dog ‘clutch' unsynchronised sequential gearbox, so nothing exotic. I’m not up with modern bikes with powershift etc. I suspect that these would need a more exotic oil.

EDIT
Since you tickled my curiosity, I came up with this explanation of standards for universal oil for motorbikes with wet clutches

What's the Difference Between JASO MA and JASO MA2 Oil? - AMSOIL Blog

Motorcycles and dirt bikes require a JASO MA or JASO MA2 oil. The difference between these classifications lie in the oils' frictional properties.

blog.amsoil.com

The oil featured by the poster does not seem to meet any of these standards and it is apparently an engine oil with no friction modifiers. This will be suitable for the bikes and quads that I am used to.