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750a mods
- Thread starter parker
- Start date
Be interested to see before & after photos
Tractor Boy
Member
- Location
- Suffolk
Is it a mod really only necessary for the 6m drills as the 4m ones have less weight on the wings?
only ever heard (on here) of 6m having this problem
I will takes some pictures when its being done but it looks a fair lot of work / extensive modification kit
- Location
- southern riverina Australia
Clive, have had no problems with mine since MY mods (be nice if someone from johndeere was reading this and contacted me about compensating me). What ever they do will be pointless without grease nipples.....
- Location
- Snodland kent
Going to have a front mount liquid fert tank so can use same set for 750 and C0 drill. Will plumb each drill with own manifold, 18 and 16 outlets which will connect to supply pipe from front tank. Will an electric pump give me enough supply or am I looking at hydraulic?
- Location
- south staffs
I cant see why not, I have electric pumps on my system, which have never let me down in any way, but mine is a drill mounted tank.
Louis Mc
Member
- Location
- Meath, Ireland
After a lot of deliberation I went for hypro centrifugal pump. Very happy with it.
look on the internet. Prices are variening much. friend got now 2nd time a Hypro pump in US for less then 50% of local offer.
So even import Tax & air freight leaves a a good margin.
don't believe the talk about not CE registrations.
York-Th.
Hillplanter
Member
What sort of weight could a 4m frame handle? Thinking of mounting a granular fert tank behind the main grain tank. Idealy we would like 1.5t seed and 1.5t fert. But that might not be resonable.
Do you think there could be balance problems with the fert tank mounted behind the seed thank? Aimng for 1t of fert for now.
Do you think there could be balance problems with the fert tank mounted behind the seed thank? Aimng for 1t of fert for now.
Our old 4m had a 1200 L fert tank which held approx 1.5t of product plus the tank weight etc and we had no issues
Weak point is the tyres at road speed so travel empty
- Location
- Surrey/ Kent Border, UK
It’s best to take the whole coulter assembly off. Take off the seed tube, take out the pin holding the spring and remove the bolt holding the main pivot pin in place, remove pivot pin making a note on which side the thrust washer goes and drive out the pivot pin. Roll the whole coulter out on the disc and then press the gauge wheel shaft out. Do not attempt to hit it out with a hammer or try to punch it out either in situ or even once you’ve removed the coulter as the gauge wheel shaft burrs easily and you’ll end up cutting the end off and pressing it out anyway.
you obviously press it out from the 'square' end. is it best to round off burrs before pressing and how much force does it need? I have a lot of coulters that I cant change the depth on because this shaft is seized.
- Location
- south staffs
They soon pop out on a press, be well worth your effort in my opinion if you cannot change depth,(how do you manage not changing depth)?
- Location
- southern riverina Australia
They also pop out with a decent sized dolly and a large flogging stick.
- Location
- Surrey/ Kent Border, UK
How old is your drill? Pre 2001 they didn’t have grease nipples ( there was a PIP ), it might be worth upgrading the shaft to a greasable one if they aren’t fitted.
can move them between two positions with a large spanner on the gauge wheel square mounting plate. shallow for osr and deeper for wheat/beans.
Louis Mc
Member
- Location
- Meath, Ireland
Lots of my are quite seized, drill only 3 seasons old. Wondering if I’m over greasing
- Location
- south staffs
Louis I have had the same problem this year and after talking to simon chiles , it is more under greasing as I was greasing regularly but not enough, the problem I found once they get tight you then start to get play in the adjusting arm, the only way to rectifie the problem is to press them out and clean them up , checking that the grease is getting through as a lot of mine were blocked