Claas Lexion concave removal?

[Phil P]

Had something go through the combine at the end of last season, not done major damage but has broken a couple of wires and bent a bar on the concave so it needs to come out.
Just wondering if anyone has taken one out before? It’s a (560TT), I’ve got the front section out but I’ve been told I need to remove the APS drum to get the main concave out. Is this case?

Here’s where I’m up to, looks like it could be tight to get out past the drum but can’t believe Claas would make it so easy to get to this stage then throw a spanner in the works like having to pull the drum out .

 

[Zebbedee]

Not entirely sure but apps drum comes out no bother through the front unbolt the shaft and bearing housing on one side no bother and I think the drum comes out the side if need be?

 

[Flatlander]

Above is right if it’s the same a my 595. It’s easier with the tracks as you can use the tracks as a platform to work from. Behind the cylinder drive is a ring of bolts that hold the cylinder in place.

 

[Phil P]

Thanks,
Ok then I’ll pull the APS out, doesn’t look to bad to be fair but the main cylinder can stay in though can’t it? Or will that have to come out as well?

 

[Phil P]

well that bit was pretty straight forward! APS drum out.

can see the damage properly now

Just the main concave to go now.

 

[Phil P]

It’s was a tight fit but it will come out past the drum , just hope I can get it back in.

 

[goldeneagle]

Must have made some noise when it went through whatever it ingested.
Are you going to try and straighten the concave bar or just leave it?

 

[Phil P]

Must have made some noise when it went through whatever it ingested.
Are you going to try and straighten the concave bar or just leave it?

Just made a thud and that was it! Pretty sure it was a rock but couldn’t find anything.

Just had a straight edge on the concave and there’s quite a bit of ware and bowing in it nearly 10mm on some bars. As you can see there’s quite a bit of daylight!

Im just weighing up whether bugger about and to try straighten it or replace it and throw a set of new bars in while I’ve got it stripped down.

The pre concave segments aren’t looking to pretty either so may as well put them in too while I’m at it.

On a walker machine if the concave and bars aren’t right you may as well leave it in the shed, the walkers won’t do any threshing! To be fair it’s done 11000ac so probably about due an overhaul and I’m not going to be swapping it just yet.

 

[Magnificent Earwig]

Can you not get it done on insurance? We replace both the drum and concave on ours a couple of years back and the insurance stood both parts and fittings

 

[Phil P]

Can you not get it done on insurance? We replace both the drum and concave on ours a couple of years back and the insurance stood both parts and fittings

I have considered that but we’ve had a couple biggish claims last couple of years due to stolen gps kit and my old man smashing the pto out the back of a tractor so don’t really want to put the premium up any more! I may give them a call in the morning and see what they say.

I’ve just priced the main concave and bars with APH and either way I’m probably as well putting new in as spending a couple of days beating it back into shape and replacing wires etc!

 

[Right-arm fast]

If you need any parts Phil, try JMT engineering in Warks. Their parts are a fraction of Claas, and may have good s/h too if you prefer.

 

[Martyn]

@Phil P thanks for posting pictures always great to see bit taken apart to see them in the flesh, can you take a photo or two with your replacement parts alongside the new for compassion. Just a complete notice with combines but find it very interesting.

 

[Phil P]

@Phil P thanks for posting pictures always great to see bit taken apart to see them in the flesh, can you take a photo or two with your replacement parts alongside the new for compassion. Just a complete notice with combines but find it very interesting.

Will do, I’ll keep you posted

 

[bobk]

It’s was a tight fit but it will come out past the drum , just hope I can get it back in.
View attachment 967996View attachment 967997

Straighten that drum bar with a hydraulic jack on the centre shaft , not ideal but better th

If you need any parts Phil, try JMT engineering in Warks. Their parts are a fraction of Claas, and may have good s/h too if you prefer.

They're half new price , and doubt you'll have a less enjoyable phone call , very professional but miserable as fouck

 

[Two Tone]

There used to be a fantastic firm at Debenham in Suffolk who could straighten that for you (Though they were NH, rather than Claas) called Bloomfields
If you took any Concave there, they’d actually put a 2mm reverse bow in it, under the assumption that when it is under load it would bow by 2mm anyway, therefore would end up parallel to the rasp bars anyway.

Don’t forget that if you are going to replace the bent rasp bar, change the one opposite too to keep it balanced.

I reckon your APS could do with a bit of attention and possibly the balance checking too.

 

[Magnificent Earwig]

There used to be a fantastic firm at Debenham in Suffolk who could straighten that for you (Though they were NH, rather than Claas) called Bloomfields
If you took any Concave there, they’d actually put a 2mm reverse bow in it, under the assumption that when it is under load it would bow by 2mm anyway, therefore would end up parallel to the rasp bars anyway.

Don’t forget that if you are going to replace the bent rasp bar, change the one opposite too to keep it balanced.

I reckon your APS could do with a bit of attention and possibly the balance checking too.

Bloomfields are still going (or were) they seem to specialise in grain handling etc, they always sort out anything we need for our mall and mix. Not sure if they do anything with combines now though, but a very helpful company

 

[Phil P]

There used to be a fantastic firm at Debenham in Suffolk who could straighten that for you (Though they were NH, rather than Claas) called Bloomfields
If you took any Concave there, they’d actually put a 2mm reverse bow in it, under the assumption that when it is under load it would bow by 2mm anyway, therefore would end up parallel to the rasp bars anyway.

Don’t forget that if you are going to replace the bent rasp bar, change the one opposite too to keep it balanced.

I reckon your APS could do with a bit of attention and possibly the balance checking too.

The APS is going to get a bit of attention, there’s a few teeth that have got a bit distorted so I’ll be sorting them and putting new bearings on as well while it out. It was running smooth so not to worried able the balance.
Going to put a full set of bars in, they are starting to show a bit of ware in the centre so may as well replace them all for £540.
I need to be able to run a very tight concave for threshing my canary seed!

 

[Farmer_Joe]

good work, keep the pics coming,

never done owt on combines so it interesting stuff

 

[Flatlander]

check out sunnybrook Welding in Canada. Lots of fresh ideas on upgrades to threshing systems. Also zaps. They are zero degree add ons to your aps cylinder and supposed to help feeding in damp conditions.

 

[Flatlander]

Also while you’ve got her apart if it’s done 1500 hrs or more is the feeder house front drum. Both of my lexiions had the bearings go out and damage the stub shafts.also the plastic bushings in the variable drives should be changed regularly. They are cheap but once they wear into the casting it’s get costly very quick.