Leyland 245 repair and maintenance

[X344chap]

Took a bit of time but finally got around to doing this job. Very pleased to see no metal filings or residue on oil removed or in the drain plug hollows, paper filter looks relatively clean too, tbh I was expecting the worst considering condition of oil but actually looks well looked after.

View attachment 989542

View attachment 989541


Any preference for hydraulic oil as not familiar with make/brands - thanks

NO HYDRAULIC OIL! Use Universal Tractor Oil - same stuff as goes in the Engine.

 

[Lakes Nash]

Any reasonable oil brand, I bought genuine case, eye watering was the price,
morris etc

 

[MF30]

Took a bit of time but finally got around to doing this job. Very pleased to see no metal filings or residue on oil removed or in the drain plug hollows, paper filter looks relatively clean too, tbh I was expecting the worst considering condition of oil but actually looks well looked after.

View attachment 989542

View attachment 989541


Any preference for hydraulic oil as not familiar with make/brands - thanks

Hi, the most important and biggest filter is inside the back end, it will have caught any filings and gunge that didn’t make it to the other filters. You need to remove the back lift housing to access it, a bolt either side of the filter will then remove it. It can be blown out with compressed air and washed with kerosene.

 

[Gubbins]

Yup, have some Super universal tractor oil in the garage, its also mentioned in the manual with a weight of 20/30W which is not far off the engine oil, 15/30W, always associated large gears with hypoid type oil around 90W.

There's another canister on the opposite side, any ideas if this needs cleaning/replacing, cant see anything obvious in the manual unless the is the hydraulic assistance cylinder ?

 

[Gubbins]

Hi, the most important and biggest filter is inside the back end, it will have caught any filings and gunge that didn’t make it to the other filters. You need to remove the back lift housing to access it, a bolt either side of the filter will then remove it. It can be blown out with compressed air and washed with kerosene.

Guessing it's the box type, watched a YouTube video but being a later model hoped mine didn't have this. I'll look through the manual in a bit more details, cheers

 

[Renaultman]

Yup, have some Super universal tractor oil in the garage, its also mentioned in the manual with a weight of 20/30W which is not far off the engine oil, 15/30W, always associated large gears with hypoid type oil around 90W.

There's another canister on the opposite side, any ideas if this needs cleaning/replacing, cant see anything obvious in the manual unless the is the hydraulic assistance cylinder ?

View attachment 989584

I'm not sure what that is but I'm sure we used to use SUTO in everything on the Leylands

 

[MF30]

Guessing it's the box type, watched a YouTube video but being a later model hoped mine didn't have this. I'll look through the manual in a bit more details, cheers

Yes it’s like a box, all leylands fitted with a rear pump should have one. I’ve yet to remove one that wasn’t well clogged.

 

[David1968]

Bit late to this thread. My penny's worth on a couple of things.

If the foot pedal for the PTO clutch is disconnected, forget about it for now. It's not very good for a controlled release anyway. Pull the hand clutch back with your left hand and reach round with your right hand to engage the PTO.

The square bungs. A few cracks with a hammer and a large (good quality) adjustable will usually shift them.

The box filter. Been a looong time since I done one, but it's a two man job, unless you have a small engine crane or somesuch.
Take the top cover, with the cross shaft, off first. Take a bolt out of either side, about half way up. Find a couple of long bolts the same thread, cut the heads off, and screw them in to act as dowels. There's less chance of it coming clattering down when you're wrestling it away from the gasket, and they're very helpful when refitting. Have something ready behind the tractor to rest it on. We used to use a couple of straw bales with a small pallet on top.
Memory's getting a bit fuzzy now, maybe others can help. I vaguely remember having to jiggle the PTO shaft from the outside to re-engage the drive while the casting is being slid back on.

 

[MF30]

Yup, have some Super universal tractor oil in the garage, its also mentioned in the manual with a weight of 20/30W which is not far off the engine oil, 15/30W, always associated large gears with hypoid type oil around 90W.

There's another canister on the opposite side, any ideas if this needs cleaning/replacing, cant see anything obvious in the manual unless the is the hydraulic assistance cylinder ?

View attachment 989584

This is the high pressure filter, it’s paper and needs to be replaced not cleaned. There’s a screw underneath and if it appears to be turning but not unscrewing, start the tractor and move position lever into draft. Rise lift lever until you hear the relief valve blowing off, this will pressurise the filter housing and tighten the inside nut so you can crack it loose. Only leave relief valve blowing for a few seconds max. Inside the bottom of the cylinder there may be a circlip but I think the canister just pops out straight down. About €50 for a new filter.
The return filter is on the opposite side and it has the same element and the engine oil filter.

 

[Gubbins]

Thanks David1968 and MF30,

Made a bit of progress this evening although struggling to find the hatch for hydraulic power unit strainer, according to the manual it's at location 20 on attached diagram - is it the four bolts which hold the two lifting rams on?

 

[David1968]

Yes, sorry, I was maybe getting a bit ahead of where you're actually at with this. There is no access to the strainer. Item 1 on the instruction list, where it says "remove the hydraulic power unit complete" means you basically have to take the whole back end off the tractor. Which is what I was (probably rather poorly) trying to describe.

 

[Gubbins]

Yes, sorry, I was maybe getting a bit ahead of where you're actually at with this. There is no access to the strainer. Item 1 on the instruction list, where it says "remove the hydraulic power unit complete" means you basically have to take the whole back end off the tractor. Which is what I was (probably rather poorly) trying to describe.

I'm with you David, thanks for that although probably a summer job for me outside.

Hopefully the three filters so far should help, the valve chest filter is still stuck despite my attempts with a bolt, not sure if they mean drive the bolt in to push end cap off or use it to pull with?

Also, point 1 and 2 appear to be missing or perhaps not fitted as no groove in the bore

 

[MF30]

I'm with you David, thanks for that although probably a summer job for me outside.

Hopefully the three filters so far should help, the valve chest filter is still stuck despite my attempts with a bolt, not sure if they mean drive the bolt in to push end cap off or use it to pull with?

Also, point 1 and 2 appear to be missing or perhaps not fitted as no groove in the bore

View attachment 989807

From memory once you remove the screw and the flat plate then the snap ring or circlip holds the filter in. You may need to tap the filter upwards first to reveal the circlip. Once removed, screw a bolt into the threaded hole and use a claw hammer or similar to pull out item 3. Then filter and spring should drop out.

 

[David1968]

If it's still difficult to pull once you have the snap ring out, you could try attaching a small chain with the bolt and tie the other end round the eye of the loose drawbar jaw. Then tap the jaw down with a hammer.

Regarding the strainer, If you get the oil back in and the hydraulics seem to be working fine, it's probably not worth the bother. I've only ever cleaned them when I've been in for something else. Once to change a hydraulic pump, and once to do a wheel bearing.

 

[Gubbins]

Thanks, it looks as though mine has a slightly different design without the circlip, instead it has a bolt running horizontal holding base plate together (there's no cover plate).

The large bolt fits into the threaded base plate which I held then tapped canister free.

Hopefully the O ring and seal will be provided with new filter

 

[tomlad]

What state was the filter

 

[Gubbins]

What state was the filter

Relatively clean, no sludge build up at all and no signs of metal fragments. This is very surprising as I have seen worse build up in car automatic transmissions especially when fitted with magnetic drain plug.

As an aside I have just noticed the design is completely different, No 6 seal is on the top of filter as opposed to bottom, will recheck manual but pretty sure this relates to D3 245 tractor assembly.

 

[Gubbins]

Thanks for all of the replies, she is now back together but has a couple of leaks under pressure, one appears to be the from the housing containing large paper element (not the small valve chest one).

When it was off for cleaning I noticed some braze at the bottom, hoped it was okay after removing the rust and paint with a wire brush but I guess not.

Little bit wary of ordering from my usual supplier as these vintage parts sometimes come with a shock, the small chest filter (which doesn't fit) arrived costing 45 euros, a friend of mine had the same experience needing two filters for an old digger 90 euros.

I may try brazing it again or epoxy, if anyone has any pointers for spares that would be great also.

On a separate note, I would like to add a small tractor box at the rear but unsure what to purchase in terms of size and hydraulic capability, can I use a tipping box for example? lots of local folks where I live but all have 90's onwards, much larger machines with multiple hydraulic attachments so unfamiliar with my set-up.

Cheers

 

[X344chap]

Thanks for all of the replies, she is now back together but has a couple of leaks under pressure, one appears to be the from the housing containing large paper element (not the small valve chest one).

When it was off for cleaning I noticed some braze at the bottom, hoped it was okay after removing the rust and paint with a wire brush but I guess not.

Little bit wary of ordering from my usual supplier as these vintage parts sometimes come with a shock, the small chest filter (which doesn't fit) arrived costing 45 euros, a friend of mine had the same experience needing two filters for an old digger 90 euros.

I may try brazing it again or epoxy, if anyone has any pointers for spares that would be great also.

On a separate note, I would like to add a small tractor box at the rear but unsure what to purchase in terms of size and hydraulic capability, can I use a tipping box for example? lots of local folks where I live but all have 90's onwards, much larger machines with multiple hydraulic attachments so unfamiliar with my set-up.

Cheers

Cant go wrong with a Fleming tipping transport box - available in 4 or 5 feet width and all mechanical - no hydraulics required. Makes a good scraper/snowplough as well.

 

[Gubbins]

All mechanical sounds ideal, have a fair bit of soil to move around along with levelling after mini digger work - watched a friend use one of these boxes to turn a uneven field into a very fine surface, hope I can achieve the same result.

This sort, manually operated.

Other Farm Machinery Ads For Sale in Ireland | DoneDeal

Discover 3,218 Ads in Other Farm Machinery For Sale in Ireland on DoneDeal. Buy & Sell on Ireland's Largest Other Farm Machinery Marketplace.

www.donedeal.ie