Post hole size for cattle shed gate posts?

[Grass And Grain]

Evening everyone,

Concreting out a cattle shed, and wanting internal gate posts for 17ft yard gates.

What size hole, and how deep from finished floor level do folks suggest?

Using 100mm galvanized box for the gate posts.

I'll just set a concrete base, then next day set the post using the "waggle it a bit" method, so posts can be lifted in and out.

Thanks.

 

[Grass And Grain]

I was thinking depth of 500mm below finished floor level.

 

[Lincs Lass]

If you are designing the posts to be lifted out ,,make a short section with a blanking plate to cover the hole afterwards else it will be full of muck next time you put the post back in .

 

[roscoe erf]

I was thinking depth of 500mm below finished floor level.

the deeper the better

 

[Lincs Lass]

17ft is a fare span ,,125mm sq would be better ,,some weight hanging of the top crook ,,would take much to twist a 100mm box if it free standing .

 

[Bucks Boy]

I used IAE preformed sockets that are 460mm deep. With a 17ft gate I’d put a proper socket in. Waggling it around in semi set concrete, I think you’ll find the gate will drop too much at latching end.

 

[steveR]

17ft is a fare span ,,125mm sq would be better ,,some weight hanging of the top crook ,,would take much to twist a 100mm box if it free standing .

Thought the same myself. Big old gate that.

 

[Lincs Lass]

I dig holes 600mm deep for a 4inch wood post and a 3ft garden gate ,,better to go overkill first time instead of getting it all set in and then finding a few weeks later ,its all gone out of square

 

[Macsky]

Definitely use sockets

 

[Grass And Grain]

17ft is a fare span ,,125mm sq would be better ,,some weight hanging of the top crook ,,would take much to twist a 100mm box if it free standing .

General advice seems to be go deep and bigger the better.

Definitely use sockets

Presume you're meaning post will be tighter in a socket? Would be easier to set a socket in. Less chance of getting it wrong.

One of the gates will be hanging off the shed post, and just latching to the box post. The other gate will be hinged off the box, and other end of gate will latch to the other shed post (so 2 gates spanning across a 34' shed).

 

[Macsky]

General advice seems to be go deep and bigger the better.

Presume you're meaning post will be tighter in a socket? Would be easier to set a socket in. Less chance of getting it wrong.

One of the gates will be hanging off the shed post, and just latching to the box post. The other gate will be hinged off the box, and other end of gate will latch to the other shed post (so 2 gates spanning across a 34' shed).

Yeah just a better job all round

 

[Lincs Lass]

Presume you're meaning post will be tighter in a socket? Would be easier to set a socket in. Less chance of getting it wrong.

Make a socket out of 4mm wall and it will never rot out ,if you cant get a any box thats slightly bigger than the post,,knock them up from old angle ,,make them to any size you want then .
As I said before ,,make a cover plate that will drop in the post hole slightly recessed into the floor ,,then when you muck out ,,you wont snag it

One of the gates will be hanging off the shed post, and just latching to the box post. The other gate will be hinged off the box, and other end of gate will latch to the other shed post (so 2 gates spanning across a 34' shed).

So only one gate of the post, still go bigger ,,you can hang the first gate of the stanchion to get the width for the middle post and then the second gate only needs a bracket to latch into ,,

 

[Fendt516profi]

Can't you hang the other gate from stanchion back to the middle post too?

 

[Grass And Grain]

Can't you hang the other gate from stanchion back to the middle post too?

Could do, but preference is to hang off the middle post.
Cattle will normally be able to run between both sides of the gated partition, with the rear gate (hinged off back wall stanchion) normally fastened back to the rear wall.

Figured, when trying to fasten cattle into one side of the shed, if the other gate is hinged off centre post (and latches to front shed stanchion), then when it's swung open it will give me 17ft of gate to help guide cattle into other side of the pen when mucking out. This gate will remain latched for 99% of the time.

Circle is the ring feeder. Feed barriers and troughs along front side (right hand side as we look at the below diagram).

Feed barriers/troughs will be hinged, so will muck out from the front of shed, simply fastening cattle into one side or other using the two gates.

 

[Fendt516profi]

If your bringin it round to guide them to the other side through the back gate what stops the first ones going through the back and back round the front

 

[Grass And Grain]

If you are designing the posts to be lifted out ,,make a short section with a blanking plate to cover the hole afterwards else it will be full of muck next time you put the post back in .

Thanks, yes, intend to set a 10mm recess into top of concrete so we can drop a galv dummy short post/blanking plate when not in use. Going to set a socket for each bay to future proof layout changes.

 

[Grass And Grain]

If your bringin it round to guide them to the other side through the back gate what stops the first ones going through the back and back round the front

Think I understand the question! Here goes...

Front gate will normally be latched. Day to day job will be filling ring feeder, so I'll swing the rear gate (hinged of rear shed stanchion) inwards towards the ring feeder, walk them round the ring feeder and into the bottom half of the yard. Close gate, fill ring feeder.

Now, imagine I want to move cattle into side where ring feeder is so I can muck out bottom half of the yard. Left hand gate will be latched closed, then open right hand gate (hinged off middle box section post) down in towards the cattle and walk cattle up into section where ring is.

That make sense? Or am I over complicating it?

 

[Skintagain]

Could do, but preference is to hang off the middle post.
Cattle will normally be able to run between both sides of the gated partition, with the rear gate (hinged off back wall stanchion) normally fastened back to the rear wall.

Figured, when trying to fasten cattle into one side of the shed, if the other gate is hinged off centre post (and latches to front shed stanchion), then when it's swung open it will give me 17ft of gate to help guide cattle into other side of the pen when mucking out. This gate will remain latched for 99% of the time.

Circle is the ring feeder. Feed barriers and troughs along front side (right hand side as we look at the below diagram).

Feed barriers/troughs will be hinged, so will muck out from the front of shed, simply fastening cattle into one side or other using the two gates.
View attachment 1042414

My plan would be two 17ft gates at end of building hung off stanchions that opened to the ring as a vee. Drop bales in close them back straight job done. No post in middle just put some box and plates on one gate across overlapping other gate with some pins dropped through

 

[Forever Fendt]

120x120 x5 box sockets 700 long ,and 100x100x4 posts are adequate

 

[Grass And Grain]

My plan would be two 17ft gates at end of building hung off stanchions that opened to the ring as a vee. Drop bales in close them back straight job done. No post in middle just put some box and plates on one gate across overlapping other gate with some pins dropped through

Cattle need to feed along front feed barriers/troughs, so can't have a gate fastened back to the feed barriers, unless made that gate so it matched the feed barrier and cattle put heads through feed barrier and gate simultaneously.