Same explorer ii 90 with loader

[PotatoBodo97]

Hi folks, I'm in a bit of a situation and just want a straight answer. Looking at buying a 4wd loader tractor and found a same 90 explorer. No to clued up on them at all but is pretty tidy and only 7k hours on her, 1992 with quickie loader. Is £10k a reasonable price or is it just covid tax?

 

[Wellytrack]

Does it sound reasonable to you?

 

[Kidds]

Try and haggle but £10k is not outrageous if it is in good condition and everything works as it should. That includes all lights, indicators, horn and interior fans. All glass present and opens/closes as it should and no oil leaks from anywhere. Tyres should be worn no more than say 40%. No significant rust on panels.

 

[Fendt516profi]

@Nithsdale Farmer

 

[Nithsdale]

What do you need it to do? They are light tractors (3.5t). Hydraulics are slow on them but you get used to giving it some (plenty) revs... If you're loading/unloading and doing a lot of back and forward work or inching about you're best putting it into medium range, as they can burn clutches if you're on the pedal a lot. Front wheel dishes can crack around the centre bolts if you do a lot of heavy lifting - reinforcement was common so have a look. It's an air cooled engine, and it's a very reliable lump which is really good on fuel. Just keep the air cooler clean or it'll cook itself

They're Italian... they do rust! Bottom front corners on the side panels for the engine, rear wings, cab pillars and check the doors. But if it's tidy as you say it could be OK!

Depends if it's a Explorer i or ii? Both the same tractor but Explorer ii had 40kph, 5 speed box with electric splitter and proper shuttle. Electronic diff lock, 4wd and PTO... Explorer i had 4 speed with Hi, Lo and reverse in a 'h' pattern on separate gear stick and all controls were mechanical/manual.

10k probably about right if it's decent condition

 

[box]

Good tractor, good price.

-Check the front wheel centres for cracks
-Check the 4wd works and check the condition of the front axle pivot bushes

The only pain in the ass thing about them is the forward/reverse shuttle being on the RH side, but you soon learn to live with it.

 

[PotatoBodo97]

What do you need it to do? They are light tractors (3.5t). Hydraulics are slow on them but you get used to giving it some (plenty) revs... If you're loading/unloading and doing a lot of back and forward work or inching about you're best putting it into medium range, as they can burn clutches if you're on the pedal a lot. Front wheel dishes can crack around the centre bolts if you do a lot of heavy lifting - reinforcement was common so have a look. It's an air cooled engine, and it's a very reliable lump which is really good on fuel. Just keep the air cooler clean or it'll cook itself

They're Italian... they do rust! Bottom front corners on the side panels for the engine, rear wings, cab pillars and check the doors. But if it's tidy as you say it could be OK!

Depends if it's a Explorer i or ii? Both the same tractor but Explorer ii had 40kph, 5 speed box with electric splitter and proper shuttle. Electronic diff lock, 4wd and PTO... Explorer i had 4 speed with Hi, Lo and reverse in a 'h' pattern on separate gear stick and all controls were mechanical/manual.

10k probably about right if it's decent condition

I appreciate your comment sir, my goal is for it to do the odd bit of cutting for silage (only do about 3 acres a year if that) take a bale out to the sheep, run a post knocker for my future business venture and also haul my 3t digger about the village. Hardly going to be doing any hard work really.

I've only been brought up on the smaller machines and own a 135, super dexta and a ford 3000. Altho since I plan to move into cattle and run a business offering fencing I would say that having a light 4wd loader tractor would be superb. I was after the classics like a ford 7740 or a MF 390 but they are stupid money now. That's why I wasnt to sure on this same altho I have no problem with paying 10k.

I should have also said but forgot that it's a explorer ii with the 40k box. I'm used to the good old massey so shouldn't be to big a problem on the shuttle altho at work I was running a case with the shuttle on the left but I think I'll manage. Thanks for the heads up to on all the things to look out for, I'm just a young lad trying to get into what I enjoy and slowly move up the machinery ladder. Been running about with the dexta and 135 on tipper trailers and it is slowly getting annoying. Cheers

 

[PotatoBodo97]

Good tractor, good price.

-Check the front wheel centres for cracks
-Check the 4wd works and check the condition of the front axle pivot bushes

The only pain in the ass thing about them is the forward/reverse shuttle being on the RH side, but you soon learn to live with it.

As you say check for the 4wd working how do you actully go about checking? I know this might be a simple thing but I'm going from the 135 era to this I think I would get used to the shuttle being on the right pretty quick as I've not had much use in a shuttle tractor. Ran one at work but to be fair I was going for miles in a straigh line. I appreciate your reply man, thank you.

 

[PotatoBodo97]

Try and haggle but £10k is not outrageous if it is in good condition and everything works as it should. That includes all lights, indicators, horn and interior fans. All glass present and opens/closes as it should and no oil leaks from anywhere. Tyres should be worn no more than say 40%. No significant rust on panels.

Thank you, I wasn't to sure as I'm not familiar with these and only have the old machines here. It seems to be mint enough and I would try to do a bit of haggling as anyone would but I'm happy with 10k. I was just wanting a second opinion to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Thanks

 

[PotatoBodo97]

Does it sound reasonable to you?

Wouldn't be asking if I wasn't 100% sure I'm not against paying 10k for it but wanted a second opinion and double check.

 

[Kidds]

About 5 years ago our 90 (no loader) set itself on fire, it was insured for £8k and we couldn't find a replacement for less than £12k.
Yes it was 5 years ago but they were already of an age

 

[PotatoBodo97]

About 5 years ago our 90 (no loader) set itself on fire, it was insured for £8k and we couldn't find a replacement for less than £12k.
Yes it was 5 years ago but they were already of an age

Oh heck, can I ask what the cause was? I've been trying to find a 4wd loader tractor cheap for a while but now accept if you want cheap you want to fix problems. So shifted my budget and a lad contacted me about this same. From what I've heard I really like them and only just noticed how many there actully are on this island that I never knew about.

 

[Kidds]

Electrical fault in the ECU by all accounts. Replacement is fine and so is it's twin. Just one of those things and I wouldn't be put off by it.

 

[PotatoBodo97]

Electrical fault in the ECU by all accounts. Replacement is fine and so is it's twin. Just one of those things and I wouldn't be put off by it.

Ahh right I see. Spot on man glad to hear that.

 

[Cowabunga]

Check the fusebox for signs of melting and also the wiring from the battery to the starter and to the ignition switch and fusebox for signs of chaffing or heat. Not a serious issue if caught in time.
Check that the synchromesh, splitter and shuttle all work as they should and that the clutch doesn't slip. That the front axle has been greased and that there is no play in the pivot bearings when you lift the front off the ground with the loader. That the PTO works and, as mentioned above, that the front wheel centres and rims aren't cracked. If they have been reinforced, fair enough.
It is an air cooled engine and high revving but very peppy and economical with it. A generally excellent engine but the gear selection always feels rubbery and vague for some reason. You get used to that. It has brakes in the front axle and if not recently done I would change the oil in all three front axle reservoirs as well as oil and filters in the engine and gearbox. Beware that if you specify a 'full service' as part of the deal, hardly any dealer will change the gearbox or front axle oil.

 

[box]

As you say check for the 4wd working how do you actully go about checking? I know this might be a simple thing but I'm going from the 135 era to this I think I would get used to the shuttle being on the right pretty quick as I've not had much use in a shuttle tractor. Ran one at work but to be fair I was going for miles in a straigh line. I appreciate your reply man, thank you.

Easiest way to check 4wd - lift the loader up, put it in 1st gear high range, put it in reverse and rapidly let the clutch out. If it's in 4wd, it will move off without any drama, if it's in 2wd the rear wheels will skid.

Good chance to check the clutch and see where it's engaging, at 7,000 hours it's probably due for it's second clutch job (unless it's already been done).

Easiest way to check thrust wear of the front axle pivot bushes - put it in 4wd, reverse, 1st gear high range. Let the clutch out rapidly and then quickly push the clutch back in and put the brakes on. Do the same thing a few times, then do it again going forward. If the bushes are worn, the front axle will clunk as it moves backwards and forwards between drive and brakes.

Alternatively if it's got double acting lift rams on the loader, you can lift the front wheels off the ground and jump underneath with a lever and check for forwards/backwards play.

Is this a cab or a ROPS machine?

 

[ridger]

Be sure that its easy to start in the morning

 

[feilding]

If front wheels have been reinforced .check the front axle kingpins, heard about problems of stress moving to axle if the machine has done heavy lifting.

 

[Nithsdale]

I appreciate your comment sir, my goal is for it to do the odd bit of cutting for silage (only do about 3 acres a year if that) take a bale out to the sheep, run a post knocker for my future business venture and also haul my 3t digger about the village. Hardly going to be doing any hard work really.

I've only been brought up on the smaller machines and own a 135, super dexta and a ford 3000. Altho since I plan to move into cattle and run a business offering fencing I would say that having a light 4wd loader tractor would be superb. I was after the classics like a ford 7740 or a MF 390 but they are stupid money now. That's why I wasnt to sure on this same altho I have no problem with paying 10k.

I should have also said but forgot that it's a explorer ii with the 40k box. I'm used to the good old massey so shouldn't be to big a problem on the shuttle altho at work I was running a case with the shuttle on the left but I think I'll manage. Thanks for the heads up to on all the things to look out for, I'm just a young lad trying to get into what I enjoy and slowly move up the machinery ladder. Been running about with the dexta and 135 on tipper trailers and it is slowly getting annoying. Cheers

It'll be fine for those jobs. The Explorer cab is a nicer place to spend a day than sat in a mf390. The Ford/NH 7740 is a class above them both - I love my one but I've never been convinced it'd be a good loader tractor for some reason.

As others have already said. Check over the front axle, or get someone to go with you who might know what they're looking at/for. They do wear and can cause issues but our 90 had a loader on it for 18 years and it was fine (it had a big, over sized loader and was the main loader tractor and we weren't very particular on maintenance).

 

[Mur Huwcun]

To check the 4wd, drop into low range, split the brakes and let clutch go gently and apply one brake. If it’s stuck in 2wd it will spin one rear wheel, if 4wd work front wheels will grab an push it around. Check that it disengages 4wd aswell, it’s a mechanical engagement controlled electrically and not a clutch pack. Most drivers wear the selector fork out by not stopping to engage and disengage 4wd. It’s a 1986 design!!