shearing hand piece knowledge for dummies

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Always just used tractor oil here. Works fine.

If its hot and the ewes good shearing are with the oils moving in the fleece you'll hardly need to oil the handpiece - just a drop on the ballrun and back cog every 10 ewes... If the ewes are dry and not good going a liberal glug on comb, cutter, Fulcrum, ballrun and cog every 5 ewes
Do you use a hollow gauge? for what weve tried cutters and combs are going much better , but got one and putting them on it and it doesn't look so good, coukd be uneven pressure seems to be :unsure:...starting and grinding pressure different than finishing pressure I reckon, trouble I have now run out of blunt stuff to practice on :rolleyes:
 

Nithsdale

Member
Livestock Farmer
Do you use a hollow gauge? for what weve tried cutters and combs are going much better , but got one and putting them on it and it doesn't look so good, coukd be uneven pressure seems to be :unsure:...starting and grinding pressure different than finishing pressure I reckon, trouble I have now run out of blunt stuff to practice on :rolleyes:

Never used a gauge. What's it telling you?

The hollow is dictated by the shape of the disc (that can't be changed), the position of it on the comb/cutter is dictated by the pendulum length.

Even and consistent pressure means the hollow is correct/even across the comb/cutter... so basically it comes down to technique. Just keep working at it I'd say
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Never used a gauge. What's it telling you?

The hollow is dictated by the shape of the disc (that can't be changed), the position of it on the comb/cutter is dictated by the pendulum length.

Even and consistent pressure means the hollow is correct/even across the comb/cutter... so basically it comes down to technique. Just keep working at it I'd say
Need to try harder at keeping Consistent pressure from start to finish I think, cutters look better than combs atm.
Could be, I have a suspicion that my old and slightly smaller diameter disc was designed for back when the combs were narrower :unsure:

I Cant justify a new grinder but I might think about a new disc, hes got an inch spindle on him.....which seems to be a standard.....:unsure:
 

tepapa

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North Wales
Need to try harder at keeping Consistent pressure from start to finish I think, cutters look better than combs atm.
Could be, I have a suspicion that my old and slightly smaller diameter disc was designed for back when the combs were narrower :unsure:

I Cant justify a new grinder but I might think about a new disc, hes got an inch spindle on him.....which seems to be a standard.....:unsure:
Think a new disk is around £140
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Think a new disk is around £140
Can get one for 95 I think, not sure if the spindle is long enough hes definitely an inch diameter.nit sure if the bearings on the belt drive bit will cope , but then they are alloy now aren't they, ? so would be relativly lighter ? :unsure:
Mines 14 inch so a new paper lols just over the edge , hes quite heavy tho
 

Nithsdale

Member
Livestock Farmer
Need to try harder at keeping Consistent pressure from start to finish I think, cutters look better than combs atm.
Could be, I have a suspicion that my old and slightly smaller diameter disc was designed for back when the combs were narrower :unsure:

I Cant justify a new grinder but I might think about a new disc, hes got an inch spindle on him.....which seems to be a standard.....:unsure:

Cutters are easy - it's getting the combs right is the important bit.

I think I'm even enough across the disc but I maybe don't press quite hard enough. Either that or I don't keep it on the paper long enough.


I don't know much about the smaller discs. I'm guessing you were looking here for new discs at that price.


I could do with a spare steel one for my Sunbeam - but how do you know if the discs will match up with what I have (grind the same hollow so combs and cutters match)
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Cutters are easy - it's getting the combs right is the important bit.

I think I'm even enough across the disc but I maybe don't press quite hard enough. Either that or I don't keep it on the paper long enough.


I don't know much about the smaller discs. I'm guessing you were looking here for new discs at that price.


I could do with a spare steel one for my Sunbeam - but how do you know if the discs will match up with what I have (grind the same hollow so combs and cutters match)
Yeah that disc , they are alloy looks like,so would be less stressy going around at 2800rpm I guess,

They should all be the same 'degree of difference' from outside to spindle hole bloke says what that is in that 'expert' video above.:unsure: I dont reckon the older ones would be any different. That's nought to do with diameter either.

But cutters are narrower.so they dont need so much diameter is what ir. so theory is imo that cutters could be done on a smaller diameter disc.

Only thing I wouldnt have then for it is a glueing clamp as mine is 14 inch one.

Got a bit stuck with one of those narrow handpieces im trying to do up as well free d him up apart from the cog on tgd end of the main shaft and cant undo the screw on the oil reservoir, going to have to put the oxy propane on it ir :unsure::sneaky:
 
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Anymulewilldo

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Cheshire
Had to go up Horners for a fresh battery for the Horner Razor the other day. Took my 20 odd year old longhorn 3.2 with me. Traded it in on a spon new longhorn 3.5. thought I'd treat myself. got it home, was raining :cautious: couple of days later dried up and got some ewes in. Now im not a fast shearer, 25/hour is about my maximum on a good day in perfect health. this year with knackered shoulder & recurring back cyst i'm down too 15/18. Did 80 in fraction over 3 hours! Wow I didn't realise how slow the 3.2 had got with age. Wool was flying off them. BUT my sunbeam handpiece which is so damned comfortable to hold and was vibrating like a barsteward, even after full new set up and oil everywhere. The lister was fine.

is the 3.5 too much for the old sunbeam handpiece or does it just need a real good service (probably 5 years since I took them up the Horners for proper strip and clean up)

What do we think?
 

Nithsdale

Member
Livestock Farmer
Had to go up Horners for a fresh battery for the Horner Razor the other day. Took my 20 odd year old longhorn 3.2 with me. Traded it in on a spon new longhorn 3.5. thought I'd treat myself. got it home, was raining :cautious: couple of days later dried up and got some ewes in. Now im not a fast shearer, 25/hour is about my maximum on a good day in perfect health. this year with knackered shoulder & recurring back cyst i'm down too 15/18. Did 80 in fraction over 3 hours! Wow I didn't realise how slow the 3.2 had got with age. Wool was flying off them. BUT my sunbeam handpiece which is so damned comfortable to hold and was vibrating like a barsteward, even after full new set up and oil everywhere. The lister was fine.

is the 3.5 too much for the old sunbeam handpiece or does it just need a real good service (probably 5 years since I took them up the Horners for proper strip and clean up)

What do we think?


My old, now traded in, spare lister handpiece was fine til I used it on the Nexus (running at 3.5)... had only ever been used on the 2speed (2.8) before that. It was the same as your sunbeam, rattled and vibrated like mad at the faster speed.

I'm pretty sure the extra speed did for it. No doubt a bloody good service would have sorted it, but I chopped her in for a Horner Suregrip
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
new paper tried the cutter disc to see but nothings different and still not happy with what the hollow gauge shows me...:unsure:.the chalk is on the hollow gauge marking.....
20200906_202322_resized.jpg
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
What does the hollow guage chart say?
it doesnt show that particular one , i just want the top of the outside teeth to be marked really its not so bad other than that. :unsure:
thats an old broken tooth comb practicing on btw . but it shows the same mark on better combs
 

Nithsdale

Member
Livestock Farmer
Although I do agree with you. When your grinding is right you do get the hollow right as well.

The hollow can't be changed - only its position on the comb.

As long as the grind marks go vertical up the teeth, everything else will fall into place. Then it's a case of applying nice even pressure and grinding enough metal every time to put a proper edge on your gear
 

shearerlad

Member
Livestock Farmer
hmm, this
shows https://www.heiniger.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Pressroom/Schleifen/Schleif-Instruktionen_english.pdf the opposite to my grind with regards to hollow and thats how new ones look when i put them on the H gauge..
i can only think its my the disc/grinder not up to it.
I wouldn’t say it’s the opposite, the hollow is still running through the middle of your comb. Sometimes a broken comb isn’t ideal to test because it could have a slight twist in it, which would alter your hollow on the stone.
ive just ground a comb and checked the hollow. Still not perfect but I know that my cut is pretty spot on.
image.jpg
 

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