Direct drilling into FYM?

I’m thinking of direct drilling with my weaving gd, into an oat cover crop (Self planted before with harvest!) but I’m just about to spread fym at roughly 15t/ac on it first. Normally I disc the muck in with two passes at 30-40mm depth, but would like to go direct this time? What are people’s thoughts/experiences?
thanks.
 

robs1

Member
I’m thinking of direct drilling with my weaving gd, into an oat cover crop (Self planted before with harvest!) but I’m just about to spread fym at roughly 15t/ac on it first. Normally I disc the muck in with two passes at 30-40mm depth, but would like to go direct this time? What are people’s thoughts/experiences?
thanks.
We do it every year, but it needs to be dry muck and reasonably rotted and well spread, even much heavier applications will have been dragged down by spring
 

Clive

Staff Member
NFFN Member
Location
Lichfield
I’m thinking of direct drilling with my weaving gd, into an oat cover crop (Self planted before with harvest!) but I’m just about to spread fym at roughly 15t/ac on it first. Normally I disc the muck in with two passes at 30-40mm depth, but would like to go direct this time? What are people’s thoughts/experiences?
thanks.

We rarely incorporate FYM or compost, we do lightly cultivate sewage sludge when we have it to keep the smell down and council happy
 

Clive

Staff Member
NFFN Member
Location
Lichfield
isn't it a requirement to incorporate within 24 hours or something ?

only sewage sludge I think ?

the rules say attempt to incorporate I believe, I would argue my drill just didn't do a great job ........ but I made an attempt

on good biologicaly active no til soils the FYM or compost disappears in days
 

Hesstondriver

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Huntingdon
only sewage sludge I think ?

the rules say attempt to incorporate I believe, I would argue my drill just didn't do a great job ........ but I made an attempt

on good biologicaly active no til soils the FYM or compost disappears in days

just looked at this from gov website :
Reduce pollution risks when you use manure or fertiliser
You must take reasonable precautions to reduce the risk of pollution when you apply manure or fertiliser.

Examples include:

  • checking your spreading equipment is calibrated and does not leak
  • working manure or fertiliser into the soil within 12 hours or as soon as possible after applying it
  • checking the organic matter content and moisture level in your soil - you can use the Nutrient Management Guide RB209 or other resources to help you do this
:unsure: :unsure:
 

Clive

Staff Member
NFFN Member
Location
Lichfield
just looked at this from gov website :
Reduce pollution risks when you use manure or fertiliser
You must take reasonable precautions to reduce the risk of pollution when you apply manure or fertiliser.

Examples include:

  • checking your spreading equipment is calibrated and does not leak
  • working manure or fertiliser into the soil within 12 hours or as soon as possible after applying it
  • checking the organic matter content and moisture level in your soil - you can use the Nutrient Management Guide RB209 or other resources to help you do this
:unsure: :unsure:

define "as soon as possible" and working into the soil, please ?

It's not possible until I have spare resources and I will work it in with the drill coulter ?



do we all work our fertilizers in ? don't see many cultivations following N top dressing do we ?
 
only sewage sludge I think ?

the rules say attempt to incorporate I believe, I would argue my drill just didn't do a great job ........ but I made an attempt

on good biologicaly active no til soils the FYM or compost disappears in days
Regarding the soils, I’m hoping I’m getting slowly towards good bio activity.
The fields in question were 3yr grass, DD WW, DD/30mm worked failed osr then April DD Oats...
 
I’m leaning towards that thinking too, however the fields are next to my mums house and she might not appreciate the smell! Maybe I’ll just very lightly cultivate the field right next to her garden..
 

Two Tone

Member
Mixed Farmer
I’m new to using a GD too. I have drilled my Winter Linseed and half the ground was mucked with FYM before I drilled it. Use a spreader that chops it up well and throws it sideways like a Rolland if you can. I spread at 8m wide.
No problem whatsoever drilling it and it’s all come up.

My idea of wanting to use the GD is absolute minimum soil disturbanice. So any cultivations are a no-no.
 

tr250

Member
Location
Northants
I’m new to using a GD too. I have drilled my Winter Linseed and half the ground was mucked with FYM before I drilled it. Use a spreader that chops it up well and throws it sideways like a Rolland if you can. I spread at 8m wide.
No problem whatsoever drilling it and it’s all come up.

My idea of wanting to use the GD is absolute minimum soil disturbanice. So any cultivations are a no-no.
I’d disagree the gd is a very versatile drill that is low distance but a light cultivation a month before drilling to create a chit and a bit of tilth can be good. Most of the weed problems have come from cultivator drills that disturb the soil.
 

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