Fendt Varioguide sensitivity

[shakalakka]

Hi,

Just getting my feet wet with varioguide (rtk) doing some spraying. It seems that the tractor is awefully aggressive getting to the wayline, and if im not dead on the wayline when enabling varioguide, it will do a hard right/left to get there as soon as possible. Even adjusting the sensitivity to almost 0 still feels a bit wobbly. For spraying a field after harvest this isnt so bad, but how do you guys drill with this system? I imagine it would look like i was drunk if you saw the tracks after Varioguide took over. Question is, is it a way to "aim" properly before letting enabling varioguide, so it doesnt to these jumps. Seems scary drilling with this as it stands :O

 

[Northern farmer]

A bit difficult to interpret how aggressive it is, the task of the auto-steer is to get to the wayline "as soon as possible".

The part concerns me where you say it looks like driven by a drunken driver. Does the auto-steer actually oscillate when trying to reach the wayline? You should have another setting to control the overshoot which again reduces oscillation.

What kind of a sprayer (implement settings) do you have? Is it a trailed sprayer? I don't even know how to set up a trailed implement that steers itself like trailed sprayers usually do. Anyway, with trailed implements Fendt has a pretty unique behaviour. The tractor drives a path that makes the implement follow the wayline. This makes the tractor overshoot and oscillate at headlands and on contour waylines (overshoot only on the latter). The tractor path may look like driven by a drunken driver but the implement would follow the actual wayline much more accurately than most (any) other auto-steer system. On the later Fendt Varioguide screens you can select between two modes, making either the tractor or the implement follow the wayline.

 

[shakalakka]

Its a three point hitch sprayer, so the boom flails about when the tractor wants to get to the wayline

Yes, it did in the beginning when i had the settings set to 75% (

). Now im down to 12,5% for both, and its better. How do you use it for say drilling, to find the wayline precisely before enabling it? Do you zoom in very much to see the wayline clearly on the screen and where the tractor is?

 

[Northern farmer]

At our farm we use a different tractor for drilling and spraying and I'm not driving in either case, cannot help our of experience. I have visited the sprayer tractor in action, also a mounted sprayer and all I can say I feel the pain on the booms when the tractor steers aggressively.

Hopefully you can find smooth enough settings and the best spot to engage auto-steer. Low speed helps if possible (at turns before spraying starts).

 

[Andy12345]

Its a three point hitch sprayer, so the boom flails about when the tractor wants to get to the wayline

Yes, it did in the beginning when i had the settings set to 75% (

). Now im down to 12,5% for both, and its better. How do you use it for say drilling, to find the wayline precisely before enabling it? Do you zoom in very much to see the wayline clearly on the screen and where the tractor is?

Play with the way line catch up..... with a mounted sprayer you need it towards the tortoise, with say a trailed drill more towards the hare so the tractor overshoots the AB line and the drill pulls in straight.

 

[Boysground]

This is how I have mine set up.

I have been spraying all day today and no wobbles at all, it is a trailed sprayer but wouldn’t have made a difference with a mounted. I am happy with the drill being set the same, I only really have it over compensating doing headlands with contour segments and starting on a curve. It can take a few yards to catch-up, keeping the speed down while it sorts itself seems to help.

More importantly does anyone know what the manual/auto button does. It only appeared one a recent update?

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[Richard Smyth]

This is how I have mine set up.

I have been spraying all day today and no wobbles at all, it is a trailed sprayer but wouldn’t have made a difference with a mounted. I am happy with the drill being set the same, I only really have it over compensating doing headlands with contour segments and starting on a curve. It can take a few yards to catch-up, keeping the speed down while it sorts itself seems to help.

More importantly does anyone know what the manual/auto button does. It only appeared one a recent update?

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not seen that manual/ auto button. There must be another update since March when I had mine done.
I’ve been wondering in the isobus page what on earth the ut600 button does. Seems pointless to me

 

[Boysground]

I spotted the u600 button the other day, I pressed it and didn’t really see what it did. Due a service any day so will see if there’s another update

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[Richard Smyth]

I’ve pressed it when an iso implement is on it. As far as I can see it does exactly the same isobus functions but in full screen with no option to see any other function on the screen. Seems completely pointless to me

 

[muzza]

How do you use it for say drilling, to find the wayline precisely before enabling it? Do you zoom in very much to see the wayline clearly on the screen and where the tractor is?

I find the best way when drilling is to engage the auto steer when your on the headland at roughly 90 degrees to the line and let the tractor steer itself onto the line. I engage it as soon as the desired line is highlighted on the screen and is usually within 5cm by the time to lower the drill. If it’s not quite online I reverse with the steering still engaged and let it square itself up. Aggressiveness usually 50 to 75% depending on forward speed and levelness of ploughing.

 

[Boysground]

A very quick google suggests it could be something to do with an external modem

A very high chance I am wrong though

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[Boysground]

I find the best way when drilling is to engage the auto steer when your on the headland at roughly 90 degrees to the line and let the tractor steer itself onto the line. I engage it as soon as the desired line is highlighted on the screen and is usually within 5cm by the time to lower the drill. If it’s not quite online I reverse with the steering still engaged and let it square itself up. Aggressiveness usually 50 to 75% depending on forward speed and levelness of ploughing.

I drill with a 4m vaderstad so quite a long bit of kit. To get the tramline in the right spot there has to be an overlap put in so the headland is only 22m wide. I now put in an extra turn so it’s 26m. I then have plenty of room and can be fairly straight to the ab line and the tractor picks it up easily.
I use the auto headland switch so all I do is turn the steering on and the tractor does the rest when it hits the mark.

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[shakalakka]

Thanks guys! So you drill headland last? Did you manually measure how many meters it takes from you lower the drill to seeds are actually going into the ground? Just wondering with regards to the auto-turn feature at the headland, have to put in when to do the end and go-functions.

 

[Boysground]

Always drill headland last. Even easier with auto steer. I still have an overlap and don’t go for a perfect start deliberately. You just have to remember that the auto function will only work if steering is engaged. It takes a little fine tuning but once set up works every time

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[shakalakka]

Nice! So you use the auto-turn feature for the field, and contours for the headland?

 

[Robt]

A very quick google suggests it could be something to do with an external modem

A very high chance I am wrong though

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You will be, approach to line is key

 

[Boysground]

Nice! So you use the auto-turn feature for the field, and contours for the headland?

Yes. Have to remember to turn the auto off for the headland. If you don’t on the inside run it will lift the drill when you don’t expect because you get close enough to the headland mark.

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[shakalakka]

Yea, so just do ordinary varioguide, but turn off all auto-headland-functions right? Sorry for the stupid questions, but there is a jungle of scary functions on this thing when youre new to it

 

[Boysground]

That’s it. TBH I keep learning about it and the best way to do things. Not always helped by updates. Think I’m going to try the drill on the clevis hitch for spring drilling, we are wondering if having the pivot a little further back may improve the way it follows.

I did discover that new discs on the drill change the way the drill follows and I had to adjust the offset slightly

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[jamesfalky]

This is how I have mine set up.

I have been spraying all day today and no wobbles at all, it is a trailed sprayer but wouldn’t have made a difference with a mounted. I am happy with the drill being set the same, I only really have it over compensating doing headlands with contour segments and starting on a curve. It can take a few yards to catch-up, keeping the speed down while it sorts itself seems to help.

More importantly does anyone know what the manual/auto button does. It only appeared one a recent update?

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If you mean the auto/manual switch on that screen, it is to stop it auto-adjusting the sensitivity when used on rough ground, if it it wobbling a lot then the gyro adjusts the sensitivity on its own. its not really needed, I have one customer that uses it, but other than that leaving it on auto is best