- Location
- South wales
Used to have the same problem on a 620 similar plough had to run the turn over stops different lengths to compensate and it was still not perfect yet put it on a different tractor it was spot on
That’s interesting. Mine are 15 and 65plates. They both the same and they both do it.Used to have the same problem on a 620 similar plough had to run the turn over stops different lengths to compensate and it was still not perfect yet put it on a different tractor it was spot on
It was an older one 09 maybeThat’s interesting. Mine are 15 and 65plates. They both the same and they both do it.
where my plough came from it used to be on a 640 and was perfect. We bought it because we knew it was straight and good and did a good job, then on our tractor it’s hopeless!!!
was your 620 same sort of age and model as mine?
We have had the same problem with our 650 tyres don't line up, even worse with newer 650. Fixed center wheels. Very hard to plough tidy, using an overumThat’s interesting. Mine are 15 and 65plates. They both the same and they both do it.
where my plough came from it used to be on a 640 and was perfect. We bought it because we knew it was straight and good and did a good job, then on our tractor it’s hopeless!!!
was your 620 same sort of age and model as mine?
Dowdeswell wanted the inner tyre side walls the same distance to run straight along the furrow wall, is that not the same for all ploughs? and is it even possible with welded wheels?We have had the same problem with our 650 tyres don't line up, even worse with newer 650. Fixed center wheels. Very hard to plough tidy, using an overum
Everything was spot on on the claas and it would never match put it on the tm or McCormick they had without touching the plough it worked perfectlyIf the tail is wagging the dog that badly, one way only? I would suggest you have twisted leg/frog. Even if the track is wildly different you should be able to drive in a straight line without fighting the plough. I take it all your lower link arms, depth settings are symmetrical?
Out of interest are you slid right over on the front furrow adjuster to one side? I had to take the head stock off our ed and turn it to gain more travel on the slideI have a kverneland es85, very good plough. And I pull it with a claas Arion 620 which is also very good
when I’m ploughing it’s always trying to pull away from the work, so the top link is never straight and it always ploughs the front furrow to wide. When ploughing across a hill it’s impossible to make it match up because all it wants to do is fall down the hill as much as the stabilisers will let it.
a few years ago when I’ve had a plough on demo it was exactly the same.
am I right in thinking this is caused by the tracking of the front and back wheels of the tractor not being right ? My front wheels are wider apart than my back wheels
any help appreciated
I've just re-read the op where it does not mention the plough steering on one side only so I retract my bright ideas That'll teach me to read it properly.Everything was spot on on the claas and it would never match put it on the tm or McCormick they had without touching the plough it worked perfectly
Is it a Claas linkage geometry thing, is it unique to Claas?Everything was spot on on the claas and it would never match put it on the tm or McCormick they had without touching the plough it worked perfectly
That is very helpful I’ll look tomorrow and see if I improve it.Wider front inside compared to back inside tyre width will cause a wider front furrow on the plough,
On a fixed beem there is usually a turn buckle, to align the plough so it pulls straight,
Yet on a vari width there is not,
View attachment 953137
Any wear in the bolt coloured white will make it plough wider, ( the white bolt should be tight, it clamps to top and bottom, yet the clevis swivels in the middle on it each time the plough opens and closes, and does wear the bolt and clevis holes, due to suck to land on the points, it makes it plough wider on the front )
The yellow dot on the 2 bolts, they should be ok, but take them out and see there is no wear on bolt or the holes,
The green dot,, I have been told them 2 bolts, adjust the true line of the plough to run, to make it run narrow shorten the arm, to make it run wider lengthen the arm, only a very small amount at a time, till the plough pulls straight on the top link, then adjust the front furrow width in cross shaft,
View attachment 953147
Probably very similar to Massey's, as they basically share the same transaxle.Is it a Claas linkage geometry thing, is it unique to Claas?
@masseybreaker ,same axle as MFYeh that’s what I got. Wheel centres are welded. I’ve changed them over left to right and made it so the fronts are as wide as when tractor was new but still not matched up.
spoke to Hamblys apparently we can buy longer studs and spacers to put the back wheels out wider to match but at £423 a side I think I’ll put up with ploughing that’s not quite right for the time being