lely cock pheasant

smcapstick · Jul 10, 2016

FonterraFarmer said:
With quotes like that, one would ask "What have you been smoking?"

Damp, green, mouldy hay one would expect.

FonterraFarmer · Jul 10, 2016

jendan said:
By ,eck.This threads a reet trip doon memory lane.Always remember my brother getting up at 4.30 in the morning to "wuffle" some hay with a single row bamford.Did about 30 acres by tea time,and came in with a sore arse (couple of hessian bags folded up on a metal seat on the Dexter)......and then it started to pee down,for the rest of the night and all the next day.Had to be careful not to laugh. We used to put it on a white 990 and in high (1000) pto.Really fluffed it up good.......until it broke. PZ zweegers haybob after that with dutch instructions that no one could understand.

If you can't read dutch , just look at the pictures ffs

FonterraFarmer · Jul 10, 2016

smcapstick said:
Damp, green, mouldy hay one would expect.

One would expect more like some "Coromandel Gold"

jendan · Jul 10, 2016

fingermouse said:
our cock pheasant was a great machine
It was even better when Grandad decided to ram it between 2 tree gate posts without putting it into transport and ripped the drawbar off for the next 20yrs it did a cracking job as a fence
I remember Dad dragged one of these out the nettles
View attachment 360660 The noise of slipping belts and ungreased bearings and the smell of Stockholm tar He lathered on the belts in the hope that the stickiness would make em grip abit better is something you never forget
Just sneaking into shot is an acrobat the most evil thing ever in the wrong hands to try and bale behind
A haybob was a revelation after these machines

Its the first thing the safety man looked for.The guard on the belt and pto.Stopped me going out the yard once when i was 13.

FonterraFarmer · Jul 10, 2016

Acornworm said:
Yup,I can still see swaths rolled up like a rope,baler pulling them in,no control over it what so ever,makes me shudder even now.

holwellcourtfarm said:
Always checked the shear bolt supply before balling behind an Acrobat!

If you thinking baling behind an Acrobat was bad, a Bamford hayrake was a bloody nightmare!!!

fingermouse · Jul 10, 2016

jendan said:
Its the first thing the safety man looked for.The guard on the belt and pto.Stopped me going out the yard once when i was 13.

That safety man possibly saved you a life time of traumatic flashbacks

Bury the Trash · Jul 10, 2016

Forage Trader said:
and you dont need to make an early start when the dew is on if you have a big one

Just what exactly are we talking about here.......

jendan · Jul 10, 2016

fingermouse said:
That safety man possibly saved you a life time of traumatic flashbacks

They probably saved many lives and life changing injuries in those days.

glasshouse · Jul 10, 2016

Bury the Trash said:
Just what exactly are we talking about here.......

a roll in the dewy hay

IH 684 · Jul 10, 2016

Exfarmer said:
Good tool. I would check the wheel bearings and tyre condition, if one drops off you will wreck a lo t of tines.

One has come up for sale nearby appears

Spencer said:
How much is it? I've got one I'd sell, wheels, bearings, tines, belts all in good order. Oh and it's converted to 3 point linkage so a doddle to move about

£150

Red Fred · Jul 10, 2016

FonterraFarmer said:
If you can't read dutch , just look at the pictures ffs

I used to have some magazines like that....

Red Fred · Jul 10, 2016

FonterraFarmer said:
If you thinking baling behind an Acrobat was bad, a Bamford hayrake was a bloody nightmare!!!

Having been given an Acrobat the other day, I'm now the proud owner of both these fine machines so we'll have a "Rake-off" to see which is worse. (Mrs Fred thinks the Acrobat is very photogenic but she hasn't had to drive it yet

)

Acornworm · Jul 10, 2016

Red Fred said:
(Mrs Fred thinks the Acrobat is very photogenic but she hasn't had to drive it yet )

Or hitch it up? ..............especially if the stands missing and it slips off the 5 gallon drum

Sid · Jul 10, 2016

Isn't the operating width of a haybob similar to the pickup width of some modern machines? In which case why bother?

Acornworm · Jul 10, 2016

holwellcourtfarm said:
Always checked the shear bolt supply before balling behind an Acrobat!

And the fag supply

DrWazzock · Jul 10, 2016

smcapstick said:
I have only seen somebody using s Haybob properly (for Redding) once, with the wheels at full height and top link wound in. Most tend to leave it on the middle hole and just turn the tines.

With the wheels at full height and the top link short, we found it tended to reduce the working width somewhat, with the rotors nose down. This meant it couldn't get hold of the full working width and tended to break more tines digging into the ground in front. Granted it throws it a bit higher and possibly wider and leaves it a bit higher off the ground - slightly. Maybe I'll try it again if I can get the bent leg to adjust that far.

Maybe I ought to find a manual and read it.

I tend to spread right out after mowing which still leaves swaths thicker in the middle than at the edges. So next time over I drive up between swaths and pull half of each onto the dry ground between the swaths. I do this with wheels on lowest setting and tines in spread mode. otherwise I leave a bit each side unlifted. Eventually I row up for the round baler with tines in spread mode and the doors set. I had to mess about with the doors a fair bit to get then to stop leaking hay out the side and replace the tines on the doors with plywood - much better neat row and flows better. I reckon 1300 rpm on the tractor is best, where 1700 is 540 pto. Any faster and it rips it past the doors. Any slower and it doesn't throw it off the rotors and drags it round.

Anyway, without the sun its all academic but do like to try and get the best out of machinery time and effort.

smcapstick · Jul 10, 2016

DrWazzock said:
With the wheels at full height and the top link short, we found it tended to reduce the working width somewhat, with the rotors nose down. This meant it couldn't get hold of the full working width and tended to break more tines digging into the ground in front. Granted it throws it a bit higher and possibly wider and leaves it a bit higher off the ground - slightly. Maybe I'll try it again if I can get the bent leg to adjust that far.

Maybe I ought to find a manual and read it.

I tend to spread right out after mowing which still leaves swaths thicker in the middle than at the edges. So next time over I drive up between swaths and pull half of each onto the dry ground between the swaths. I do this with wheels on lowest setting and tines in spread mode. otherwise I leave a bit each side unlifted. Eventually I row up for the round baler with tines in spread mode and the doors set. I had to mess about with the doors a fair bit to get then to stop leaking hay out the side and replace the tines on the doors with plywood - much better neat row and flows better. I reckon 1300 rpm on the tractor is best, where 1700 is 540 pto. Any faster and it rips it past the doors. Any slower and it doesn't throw it off the rotors and drags it round.

Anyway, without the sun its all academic but do like to try and get the best out of machinery time and effort.

That's the key. Never mind what anyone else thinks - just do what's right for you

Derrick Hughes · Jul 10, 2016

smcapstick said:
Damp, green, mouldy hay one would expect.

Nothing mouldy about my, I don't use Hayblob farmers

smcapstick · Jul 10, 2016

Forage Trader said:
View attachment 360766

Nothing mouldy about my, I don't use Hayblob farmers

Make sure you don't drive around with the boom up, again.

holwellcourtfarm · Jul 10, 2016

smcapstick said:
Make sure you don't drive around with the boom up, again.

Sounds like there's a story in that! I'll have to resort to "search"

lely cock pheasant

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