FonterraFarmer
Member
- Location
- Waikato, New Zealand
Or have purchased a Landcruiser in the first place.
Discovery 4 engine seized
- Thread starter Henry B
- Start date
- Location
- Lincolnshire
Buying a Vehicle with a Land Rover badge means you are a very special type of person, you expect to have problems that most makers left behind in the 1970's. You also dont believe that 90% of other makes of car make it to 70k miles with nothing more than a set of brake pads.
- Location
- The North
Maltings Off Road
Discovery 4 3.0 tdv6 engine swap genuine land rover crate engine supplied and fitted at a fraction of the dealer price !www.facebook.com
Ha ha never put a price!
- Location
- The North
There was a company down south the did them for about 4.5k all in,( including recovery etc) pretty much all they did cant find them now but they were members of the discovery 4 forums with a good rep, I’m sure I’ve posted them in this thread before .
Skintagain
Member
- Location
- Perched on the Pennines
I have a td5 defender with 240k on clock but it won’t last forever however much I want it to. That has been a good motor it’s lived on the trailer. Have a hilux too but the rot will catch it before the miles do
No stash of kidneys
Skintagain
Member
- Location
- Perched on the Pennines
It should be ultra reliable it can only be a maximum of 5 years old. Crazy what we have all accepted to carry on with the green ovalJust sold our disco 5 was very reliable tbh but the infotainment screen had a mind of its own, some days just decided it was having the day off and wouldn’t boot up and then the next day fine
Lovely machine to drive, very capable but wife wanted something smaller and bought a Volvo but it's not a patch on the disco. Hell of a lot cheaper to run she says
Cowabunga
Member
- Location
- Ceredigion,Wales
Better have no issues to sort under warranty.
Land Rover have a well deserved reputation for unreliable vehicles. Surely they could spend a bit more money on their engineering to ensure that their products were designed to be durable and reliable both in the short and long term. They built-in obsolescence and short component life as far back as I can remember. A glaring example is the lack of protection from rusting built into the rear crossmember design all through the separate chassis Defender’s long production run from SeriesII to the very last. All it would have taken to treble the life of the rear crossmember was a mudguard. I made such a thing from a 3mm galvanised sheet, pop riveted to the body to prevent mud build-up on the crossmember. Never did LR consider this cheap improvement to their vehicles that would extend its chassis life and/or make the long term cost of ownership lower.
There’s always penny pinching in critical components, poor design that makes assembly in the factory, such as foolproof alignments, snap fastening, and later maintenance problematic. They look and perform well but nobody can deny that they are probably the least reliable vehicles on the road by any measure, and that’s in the UK where the majority don’t get any substantial hard work.
kiwi pom
Member
- Location
- canterbury NZ
Or just not buy the shite in the first place.Be easier just to LS swap it.
People keep buying them though, so quality is unlikely to improve.
- Location
- Lincolnshire
Marketing... keep the price high and get premium brand status, they would sell hardly any if they halved the price.
I’ve been following JPSK on Facebook it does seem very interesting what they do. Drill the engine to improve oil flow and new design crankshaft .
- Location
- Bedfordshire
What a generalisation. (I am being polite).
I've had/still got 2 disco 4s that have gone past 70,000 with no issues, I have friends put well over 100,000 on them with no problems. I have also had VW golfs go wrong way before 70,000. And a mate with his 4 yr old Landcruiser head gasket at 50,000 IIRC
They all go wrong at some point. It is just a case of when, how often, and statistics.
- Location
- Cirencester
I follow one chap on Twitter and he has just had his 3rd engine go, full JLR service history the works. It's almost like owners are treating replacement engines as service item!
I'm not sure I would put up with it to be honest.
I'm not sure I would put up with it to be honest.
Paddington
Member
- Location
- Soggy Shropshire
Had my head gasket go on a retrofit 200tdi within a year of it being fitted, no help from LR, it was a design feature of the plastic plugs in the head which caused the head gasket to blow (fault). Took a while to fix as the garage had a yard full of Defenders and Range Rovers with the same er,design feature. A couple with a blown engine had to resort to a solicitor to try and get money back, LR couldn't care less.
- Location
- Northumberland
Still got the Ford Edge? I traded mine at 5years with 86,000miles on it for a 19 plate st line face-lift model with 19,000 miles.
- Location
- The North
Theres some really interesting post from him I got drawn into reading some of his stuff he said the pre 2012 had sh!t cranks, they then improved them and made them harder but the ‘weak’ point is the oil flow to the middle crank journals I believe, He also said they are ‘vulnerable if neglected’ which I found interesting saying best oils half intervals so it not something the will happen something that can…
Amazing how someone break 3 of them I do wonder how he drives it?
Timbo
Member
- Location
- Gods County
The key to keeping the 3.0 running for a reasonable time is regular oil changes with the right oil- 6-7000 miles max, not the 18,000 miles that LR suggest.
Paramount is to use a C3 grade (nearly all are C1 which LR say is fine, it is not) *5w40*. The 5w-30 suggested is just too thin and it exuberates the low oil pressure that these engine run - spec is 0.5bar at idle (yes 8psi) and only 2 bar at 3500rpm- the crank literally is sat on the bearing surface than riding on an oil cushion which obviously wears the bearings and encourages them to spin in the housing- they have no tabs. If they spin even alittle, it cuts off the lube oil to that bearing totally.
The other thing is let it warm up before you rev or load it, and if towing, use S mode or manual to keep the revs up and prevent it from labouring under high load at low crank speeds. The 8 speed allows it to rev at 1300rpm at 60mph, way too low to keep the crank supported.
lloyd
Member
- Location
- Herefordshire
That's good observations and advice but at the end of the day if your buying
sh it still sounds like a Russian roulette purchase .