Combine barley separation TX34

[Flatlander]

If you running your conclaves at the tightest setting I’d get your fitter to check the rear pinch point between the cylinder and concave. 3kmh should be easily done . If the header is rusty wrapping of crop around the auger is normal. Feeding up the feeder house can be restricted by grain settling under the auger stopping it going in proper. There would be plenty of barley cut at 18% the top pic I’d get cut before it becomes the bottom one as the next pic will be ugly after wind and rain. Try getting a decent amount of material going in before changing the concave settings. The tighter it is will creat a better threshing action by forcing the seeds off the head and thru the concave. Aim at straw intact fir the most part.

 

[Jsmith2211]

If you running your conclaves at the tightest setting I’d get your fitter to check the rear pinch point between the cylinder and concave. 3kmh should be easily done . If the header is rusty wrapping of crop around the auger is normal. Feeding up the feeder house can be restricted by grain settling under the auger stopping it going in proper. There would be plenty of barley cut at 18% the top pic I’d get cut before it becomes the bottom one as the next pic will be ugly after wind and rain. Try getting a decent amount of material going in before changing the concave settings. The tighter it is will creat a better threshing action by forcing the seeds off the head and thru the concave. Aim at straw intact fir the most part.

We had another go today while it was sunny, grain measuring at 17.2% but could bite through it... Still leaving a little on the heads after adjusting the concave and putting the deawning plates in, although the grain sample was a lot better for using the deawners - and there was a lot less on the straw for adjusting the concave up. the only losses we are getting is from it not threshing out of the heads, there doesnt seem to be any loss from the seives or over the walkers (seives still too far open so getting straw into the bottom sieve, needs adjusting but thats a problem to sort after the grain is all off of the straw. we did notice that the concave is right at the end of its adjustment at the front and not adjusted right, one side is loose and the other looks bent, as if a stone had gone through and bent something. Father reckons that the barley just isnt quite fit yet, and we are starting to doubt that the moisture meter is actually reading the correct moisture from the grain, as i said, 17.2% and can bite through it. I think we'll give it a week then try it again on a nice hot day when the straw is dry as well. everything else seems to be working as it should (except the AC!) and it managed well with beans. Should be fine so long as the barley is very ripe. Still, id have thought a few days off of being august barley should be fit by now... I expect if the combine was brand new it would thresh it fine, but that concave adjustment definitely doesnt look right to me, the back is fine now and adjusted how it should be. We did have the moisture meter calibrated a few years ago, and it is a good quality one.

 

[Zippy768]

We had another go today while it was sunny, grain measuring at 17.2% but could bite through it... Still leaving a little on the heads after adjusting the concave and putting the deawning plates in, although the grain sample was a lot better for using the deawners - and there was a lot less on the straw for adjusting the concave up. the only losses we are getting is from it not threshing out of the heads, there doesnt seem to be any loss from the seives or over the walkers (seives still too far open so getting straw into the bottom sieve, needs adjusting but thats a problem to sort after the grain is all off of the straw. we did notice that the concave is right at the end of its adjustment at the front and not adjusted right, one side is loose and the other looks bent, as if a stone had gone through and bent something. Father reckons that the barley just isnt quite fit yet, and we are starting to doubt that the moisture meter is actually reading the correct moisture from the grain, as i said, 17.2% and can bite through it. I think we'll give it a week then try it again on a nice hot day when the straw is dry as well. everything else seems to be working as it should (except the AC!) and it managed well with beans. Should be fine so long as the barley is very ripe. Still, id have thought a few days off of being august barley should be fit by now... I expect if the combine was brand new it would thresh it fine, but that concave adjustment definitely doesnt look right to me, the back is fine now and adjusted how it should be. We did have the moisture meter calibrated a few years ago, and it is a good quality one.

That's promising, sounds like you're getting to grips with her now.
Was the moisture reading taken from a hand sample or from tank? It's almost always higher when taken from the tank

 

[Jsmith2211]

That's promising, sounds like you're getting to grips with her now.
Was the moisture reading taken from a hand sample or from tank? It's almost always higher when taken from the tank

was taken from a few random ears in the field i picked off and rubbed out. didnt test it in the tank as i tested it before we started. hopefully when we try it again she'll do a good job. barley will be the hardest to do as its the hardest to thresh, if she can do the barley well she wont have a problem with wheat oats beans and peas (i hope). The one thing i am struggling with is header height. there is no guage to tell you how high the header is, and i have a job to tell when it is too low or too high, i dont want to put a stone through it so im ending up with the header up too high and leaving half the straw on the ground. Any tips for this, or add ons i could get to tell me the header height? i know some had a stubble height indicator but ours isnt fitted with one.

 

[SilliamWhale]

If it’s necked over like this it’s only just coming ready.
View attachment 976193

If it looks like this it’s time to get cutting as it’s not far from the heads snapping off if it comes windy.
View attachment 976194

And usually you get about half a day between picture 1 and 2

 

[Oliveau]

You should be able to see the stubble height behind the table from the seat which will give you an idea of cutting height. As you get used to the combine it will all become second nature, but as a guide have a look where the tip of the divider is running.

 

[Jsmith2211]

You should be able to see the stubble height behind the table from the seat which will give you an idea of cutting height. As you get used to the combine it will all become second nature, but as a guide have a look where the tip of the divider is running.

The tip of the divider will be at the same height as the fingers?

 

[yellow belly]

sound like your first cutting was not fit your meter needs calibrating with rescently combined grain

Used a a few new Holland combines
check your concave is parallel with drum
Close concave fully open stone trap and measure the gap left and right book will give info on how to adjust it
check your sieves for gap using a m10 bolt as a measure the book gives good descriptions of starting settings

if You have the smooth rethrasher bottom (set for beans ) for the returns change it to the alternative knobbly one

moisture meter sound like you need to get a sample checked on a known accurate meter from a grain lab then keep that sample although to check against

as you have a large combine relative to your area you can be more patient
when it is dry an fit you can push on a lot harder afternoons with the sun out can be double the speed of damp dewy mornings

as you have a old worn combine a few basics
check you knife sections for sharpness and the edge of the double fingers for wear
take knife out and run a grinder up the edge of each double finger to give a sharper cut
I do this every season and always before cutting tough crops linseed weedy cereals
I do change sections every 80 to 100 hours modern knives have bolt in sections blunt sections halve the forward speed
auger height and strip off plates need checking 10 mm for cereals ( for beans and rape I have them set as high as possible)

 

[Bluetooth]

Hi we have a tx32. I think your main issue is its not fit give it a week as already said it should go better next week maybe even 2 weeks. You tested the moisture prior to starting but this is only a guide and can often differ a few percent to what's actually in the tank, you maybe got the sample from a bit into the field but are combining the headland which usually is less ripe. As for the concave check it is actually in the first position ( if you slide your hand down the gap at the back of the lever see if you can feel any more notches. Ours was very stiff one year and wouldnt go in the 1st notch but come oil on the moving parts sorted this.)

 

[Bluetooth]

As for the sieve setting I can get you them from the book in the morning. Best way i was taught for getting the right gap was get the correct sized drill bit or allan key open the sieve stick it in then close the sieve onto the drill bit. Hope some of this is some use I'm far from an expert.

 

[Jsmith2211]

As for the sieve setting I can get you them from the book in the morning. Best way i was taught for getting the right gap was get the correct sized drill bit or allan key open the sieve stick it in then close the sieve onto the drill bit. Hope some of this is some use I'm far from an expert.

We've worked out the bottom sieve (there's a folding pnnwm to access the bottom seive and it adjusts like our old betsey used to (old 8040, we gave it a name in the hope it would be more reliable. It wasn't... Didn't have a cab either) but the top seive is different? I'm guessing you undo the bolts on the bottom and just move the lever a bit, but there are two levers? The book really doesn't explain it well at all. So far as I can make out one lever does the rear half and one lever does the front half, but that's all it says. Should the rear be open more than the front? Thanks in advance and sorry for being an idiot! We are going to give it a few days more and see if that helps, barley is a pig to combine anyway so that's probably what it is.

 

[Oliveau]

The tip of the divider will be at the same height as the fingers?

No. But once you have found the correct cutting height you will see how high the divider tip is off the ground. Its only rough & ready, but it makes a good indicator until you get used to the combine. Rather like lining up the top of the tractor wheel to the last bout when cultivating ground to get the right working width

 

[Jsmith2211]

No. But once you have found the correct cutting height you will see how high the divider tip is off the ground. Its only rough & ready, but it makes a good indicator until you get used to the combine. Rather like lining up the top of the tractor wheel to the last bout when cultivating ground to get the right working width

i see. what about dividers knocking over the grain when going around corners?

 

[bravheart]

Driven one of these for more years than I care to remember.
First the bad news they are notoriously bad at getting awns off especially in winter barley. If the combines new to you you need to physically check the settings not just move some levers around. Get the drum speed up and then some to help with awns. Check the drum belt is right up to the top of the variator pulley if not there is a small amount of adjustment on the pulleys or replace the belt check out how to adjust them from the manual.
The top seive adjusts from the handles you can see at the back of the seive. The back of the grain pan hinges down to adjust the lower seive a spring loaded bolt each side holds this flap up.
Check the cover of the returns auger there should be v shaped roto thresher pegs on the cover which can be adjusted closer to the moving pegs on the auger shaft to thresh out the returning barley heads. Also if you were set up for beans I believe a smooth cover should be fitted check it out.
Sorry for the novel but believe it or not the best way to get awns off w barley is to be brave and wait for a shower of rain that will ripen it better to get awns off once it dries again.

 

[Jsmith2211]

Driven one of these for more years than I care to remember.
First the bad news they are notoriously bad at getting awns off especially in winter barley. If the combines new to you you need to physically check the settings not just move some levers around. Get the drum speed up and then some to help with awns. Check the drum belt is right up to the top of the variator pulley if not there is a small amount of adjustment on the pulleys or replace the belt check out how to adjust them from the manual.
The top seive adjusts from the handles you can see at the back of the seive. The back of the grain pan hinges down to adjust the lower seive a spring loaded bolt each side holds this flap up.
Check the cover of the returns auger there should be v shaped roto thresher pegs on the cover which can be adjusted closer to the moving pegs on the auger shaft to thresh out the returning barley heads. Also if you were set up for beans I believe a smooth cover should be fitted check it out.
Sorry for the novel but believe it or not the best way to get awns off w barley is to be brave and wait for a shower of rain that will ripen it better to get awns off once it dries again.

Seemed like it was getting the awns off alright on the second go, with deawning plates on and the drum adjusted up to the concave. looks like the front of the concave isnt going to be adjusted right any time soon without some new bits... but the back is adjusted right. What drum speed would you recomend for barley? we set it to 1100 on the second go and it seemed to get the awns down, but there was still a little in the heads. looking to rain a bit tuesday and wednesday and then sun from thursday to monday. hopefully we will be ready to get it cut then... Where abouts on the rotothresher is the peg thing? i found a peice of curved metal with some tooths in it in the toolbox which i assume needs to be installed into the rethresher. Thanks for the advice!

 

[JWL]

It's a replacement "door" on the bottom of the returns auger.
You'll find it on the drivers steps side near enough the bottom around where the batteries are. Pull the long pin out and it hinges down, undo the long(hinge) bolt and swop them.
Combining beans, rape etc it's a good idea to slow the table auger down, change of driven sprocket, turn the driver sprocket round and alter the chain length. Lifting the auger to give clearance is just spanners at each end. I can't remember if yours has the ability to slow down the rear stripper rotor behind the drum but helps to slow down for the beans rape etc

 

[Jsmith2211]

It's a replacement "door" on the bottom of the returns auger.
You'll find it on the drivers steps side near enough the bottom around where the batteries are. Pull the long pin out and it hinges down, undo the long(hinge) bolt and swop them.
Combining beans, rape etc it's a good idea to slow the table auger down, change of driven sprocket, turn the driver sprocket round and alter the chain length. Lifting the auger to give clearance is just spanners at each end. I can't remember if yours has the ability to slow down the rear stripper rotor behind the drum but helps to slow down for the beans rape etc

So the stripper rotor might be running slowly for beans and therefore not quick enough for the barley? How would I change the speed if its possible?

 

[hintonroadhero]

Hello all

We just had a go at the barley today with our new to us TX34. She handled a crop of weedy beans last year but thats all we've run through her. did a small bit and stopped as most of the barley stayed on the ear, and what went in the tank still had a lot of the beards in with it. Drum speed was 1000, fan at 680, slowest gear slowest speed possible and concave setting 1. Any ideas from anybody as to what we could be doing wrong with this combine? there were also a few unthreshed ears in the tank. The straw was slightly damp but the barley tested at 18.2% with the meter, so that should be dry enough?

First rule for harvesting Winter Barley..."when you thinks its fit...go away on holiday for a week and start when you get back!...told to me by an old combine driver thirty years ago..still very true !!!

 

[oil barron]

Go faster

 

[bravheart]

So the stripper rotor might be running slowly for beans and therefore not quick enough for the barley? How would I change the speed if its possible?

As @JWL it's a double sprocket on the drive end of the table. Pull it off and turn round