Combine barley separation TX34

bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
As for table height you should have an indicator on the floor of the cab. Is yours hydro drive? There might also be a stubble height/pressure height setting not sure may be hydro drive only
 

JWL

Member
Location
Hereford
So the stripper rotor might be running slowly for beans and therefore not quick enough for the barley? How would I change the speed if its possible?
The stripper rotor, may be called the rear beater, is up below the engine directly behind the drum. That is just a case of swopping the existing belt from one set of pulleys to another on the same shafts.
The basic set up on New Holland combines haven't changed overly much on one your age to ones in the 80's. Yes they have altered and added but still followed the basics.
The operators manual is a necessity and becomes more useful as you get to know your machine.
The basic settings are a guide, you will get to know how to get the best out of the machine by using it.
Next time you're cutting and you think you're going well turn the key off and stop the combine in work, don't slow down just turn the key and clutch and brake, do a stall whilst it is working. You can then get out and near enough see a snapshot of what is happening
When you restart make sure everything is out of gear and return to cutting after you've had a good look
 

Jsmith2211

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Somerset
As for table height you should have an indicator on the floor of the cab. Is yours hydro drive? There might also be a stubble height/pressure height setting not sure may be hydro drive only
No stubble height guage, optional extra. I did wander if it would be possible to fit one from a breakers, can't think there would me more than a blanking hole in the floor
It's mechanical drive.
 

bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
Sorry I was on the wrong stripper forget what I wrote the bearer behind the drum can of course be speed changed releasing the handle next to the good grain elevator and swapping belt onto other pulley.
Get the drum speed wound right up for awns. It needs to be flat out and de awning plates in. That's the two main settings. As I said check the belt is right out to the top of the pulley for max speed.

Just had a look not even a blanking plate for stubble indicator just two bolt holes and a hole for the wire should be easy to fit one from salvage yard.
 

JWL

Member
Location
Hereford
Then you too can crap yourself when the indicator on the top of the spring suddenly shots up when it's been caught on the tooltray or lunchbag when you've picked up the header. Then there's the creaking spring noise that accompanies all the other sounds you're listening out for
 

Jsmith2211

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Somerset
Sorry I was on the wrong stripper forget what I wrote the bearer behind the drum can of course be speed changed releasing the handle next to the good grain elevator and swapping belt onto other pulley.
Get the drum speed wound right up for awns. It needs to be flat out and de awning plates in. That's the two main settings. As I said check the belt is right out to the top of the pulley for max speed.

Just had a look not even a blanking plate for stubble indicator just two bolt holes and a hole for the wire should be easy to fit one from salvage yard.
Where does the wire affix to the straw elevator? I assume that's where the wire goes, it's where I would fix it to if I was making it. I'll check speeds in a minute. Its possible that the stripper is running on a slower speed for beans. What other settings could be changed that I need to change back?
sounds like your not driving fast enough and keeping her full
Nope I'm not. Going as slowly as possible because I don't want a stone going through it and I'm very new to this machine.
 

JWL

Member
Location
Hereford
20210727_111853.jpg

Rotor thresher
20210727_112015.jpg

Sprocket to change round to alter table auger speed. You'll need the bigger sprocket, bolts behind rattle clutch to go with the above

Table auger height adjustment, the eye bolts at top right and bottom left. Both ends
20210727_112051.jpg


Just having trouble getting signal to post
 

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Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
Where does the wire affix to the straw elevator? I assume that's where the wire goes, it's where I would fix it to if I was making it. I'll check speeds in a minute. Its possible that the stripper is running on a slower speed for beans. What other settings could be changed that I need to change back?

Nope I'm not. Going as slowly as possible because I don't want a stone going through it and I'm very new to this machine.


Keep 5-6 inches of stubble height to avoid most of the stones for sure, but you will need to push on 4-5mph as you get alittle more confidence..
 

oil barron

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Think of volume of material going through the combine as an assistant to getting a tighter concave. So if you are going ridiculously slow and only cutting heads there is no material in the concave to rub against.
Grains still in head = go faster. Loose grains in straw = go slower
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
Have not read all the posts but this sounds like a classic case of the drum being wide open and not closing.
You say it handled beans , but they will normally thresh whatever you do.
Never driven this model but there is always a plate somewhere on the ends of the drum where can gauge the concave drum distance for barkey you probably want it 6-8 mm at the front and 4-6 at the rear
The gap must be less at the rear!
Concaves very often seize on older machines especially if they have not had 100% maintenance
 
start thrashing with the header,drive on till the neck is full
then adjust the concave to get total separation- ie chewed straw open it, not getting all the grains close it
if cracked grains slow the drum/too much returns speed up the drum
then set the sieves
do the concave settings 1 notch or 3mm at a time
alter drum speed 50rpm at a time
 
Last edited:

nelson

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
herefordshire
View attachment 976363
Rotor thresher
View attachment 976366
Sprocket to change round to alter table auger speed. You'll need the bigger sprocket, bolts behind rattle clutch to go with the above

Table auger height adjustment, the eye bolts at top right and bottom left. Both endsView attachment 976370

Just having trouble getting signal to post
make sure you have the toothed door in the rotor thresher for barley not the smooth one
 

Jsmith2211

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Somerset
Have not read all the posts but this sounds like a classic case of the drum being wide open and not closing.
You say it handled beans , but they will normally thresh whatever you do.
Never driven this model but there is always a plate somewhere on the ends of the drum where can gauge the concave drum distance for barkey you probably want it 6-8 mm at the front and 4-6 at the rear
The gap must be less at the rear!
Concaves very often seize on older machines especially if they have not had 100% maintenance
It's quite wide open at the front on one side, not quite so wide open the other side. At the back it's adjusted perfectly. The front adjustments don't look to work quite right as one is adjusted all the way to the bottom and is wobbly and the other looks to be slightly bent... We've adjusted the rear clearance to 8mm as the book says, so hopefully this will be enough. Also adjusted the stripper drum thing to the faster speed. The concave moves free enough
 

bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
Where does the wire affix to the straw elevator? I assume that's where the wire goes, it's where I would fix it to if I was making it. I'll check speeds in a minute. Its possible that the stripper is running on a slower speed for beans. What other settings could be changed that I need to change back?

Nope I'm not. Going as slowly as possible because I don't want a stone going through it and I'm very new to this machine.
There's a plate on the elevator under the platform at the top of the steps
 

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